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Howdy Brad,
Great thread. If I had to pick a set up for application you're trying to fill, I would go with the Maxx and a ABN wheel. It's the only standard duty grinder that allows for directional grinding without revering the rotation. It's the same motor that goes on the Tecomec / Oregon product. If your wallet can stand it, the ABN wheels are better in a few ways. Firstly, there's no shaping (great for new users), they grind so much cooler that you would have to work at burning a tooth, there's no aggregate dust to breath or get in your chain.
We're going to be taking on the Dinasaw line. Our product is going to be coming on a container with our Lucas mills in about 8 weeks. I'm attaching a price list that we have for our introductory pricing on Dinasaw. The wheel you're looking for is the G1494ABN 149 x 4 x 22.2 ABN Wheel. The price you see listed is what we're selling for. I realize you probably have time constraints but, I could have them air shipped to you, and still beat the pants off anybody else's prices from what I've seen. I should have their product on our site within about a month. Here's something I did using another grinders chain stops on the Oregon type grinder. Saves a crap load of time. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO_NVYAhKi2-JxRLhHdU9Zw
mqdefault.jpg


Regards
Gregg
Interesting use for a GB bar [emoji23][emoji23]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Does anyone know about a "capacitor mod" that allows you to run the 511 backwards? I think it was said that you actually remove a capacitor and that allows you to start the wheel in the direction wanted before flipping the switch. I'm not an electrician, so I'll need some more detailed help to figure this out.
 
Does anyone know about a "capacitor mod" that allows you to run the 511 backwards? I think it was said that you actually remove a capacitor and that allows you to start the wheel in the direction wanted before flipping the switch. I'm not an electrician, so I'll need some more detailed help to figure this out.
No, you keep the capacitor and add a DPDT switch, then a little wiring alteration.
Just follow the linked PDF

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...mprovements-tweaks.197073/page-3#post-4742718
 

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  • 511a reversable diagram.pdf
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Does anyone know about a "capacitor mod" that allows you to run the 511 backwards? I think it was said that you actually remove a capacitor and that allows you to start the wheel in the direction wanted before flipping the switch. I'm not an electrician, so I'll need some more detailed help to figure this out.
Or spin it with a drill.
 
There are two ways to make your NT grinder reversible. One is to swap the capacitor from the auxiliary (start) winding to the main winding. This method is the easiest of the two, but it leave you with your motor running on its smaller auxiliary winding and it produces less torque and less power. For most folks this is not a big deal

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/rewiring-chain-grinder-for-cw-and-ccw-rotation.255986/

The better way to do it requires a bit of motor work as you convert the 3-wire motor to a 4-wire by separating the two windings. This allows you to place the capacitor on the other side of the auxiliary winding and the result is a true reversible motor that produces the same power either direction.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/reversing-a-hf-grinder-3-wire-ac-motor.181620/

I hope to get time this winter to do mine this way....already have the switch....just gotta make time to do the work.
 
Sure it will cut it in half.
You push it across the surface to deglaze it. The glaze is the steel inbeded in the surface.
I do it all the time grinding carbide on a diamond wheel.
Hasnt changed in at least 35 years I've been doing it.

And when used on a surface grinder if it gets too loaded, you dress it. With a double wheel dresser.
I'm new to chain grinding after many many years of hand filling, but have been working with high carbon steel for 30+ years and run a surface grinder daily. I don't run diamond wheels on the surface grinder, but then I don't ever grind carbide.

My comment about can't dress a diamond wheel was geared towards chain grinding wheels. Yes I can see the need for cleaning or de-glazing. I think of dressing as removing grit to expose new sharp grit and or reshaping a wheel. I do it all the time on the surface grinder with a stone wheel.
 
Does anyone know about a "capacitor mod" that allows you to run the 511 backwards? I think it was said that you actually remove a capacitor and that allows you to start the wheel in the direction wanted before flipping the switch. I'm not an electrician, so I'll need some more detailed help to figure this out.
Just another reason I got the Maxx, no need to reverse the motor.
 
TRX, I havent found the grey wheels for the 511, they look like they do indeed run cooler than the pink ones
I have only found them at the stihl dealer ,they are stihl branded ,price was not far off the pink ones ,not sure if arbor is smaller or larger ,i would have to look ,if larger ,maybe a ring type spacer to bush it to fit may be a solution ,am not sure how you could hog it larger without ruining your bit ,i ran pinks on my usg made by forester ,they heated the cutters like you say ,and rolled a lip up /burr on the top plate ,and needed cleaned/dressed a lot more than the gray does .
 
I have only found them at the stihl dealer ,they are stihl branded ,price was not far off the pink ones ,not sure if arbor is smaller or larger ,i would have to look ,if larger ,maybe a ring type spacer to bush it to fit may be a solution ,am not sure how you could hog it larger without ruining your bit ,i ran pinks on my usg made by forester ,they heated the cutters like you say ,and rolled a lip up /burr on the top plate ,and needed cleaned/dressed a lot more than the gray does .
Thanks B !!
IIRC, the USG has a 12mm arbor hole and the 511 has a 7/8 (22mm) arbor hole.
I have the CBN wheel for my 511 coming to me, should be in my grubby paws in a few days. Been kicking around a few ideas for air coolant, and think I have a good way to get it done ................. just need some time to do it
 
Howdy,
The ABN's we'll have are the cyclone type.
I'm not sure what happened to them. When we first introduced CBN's at Bailey's, Diamond Wheel had the same cleaning stick they have today but, they also offered a dressing wand. It was a about a 1/2" in diameter, a couple inches long, and looked like a steel pin. I know they tell you to keep flipping the CBN wheels but, they end up getting pointed, and not holding the true radius.
Regards
Gregg
 
I'm new to chain grinding after many many years of hand filling, but have been working with high carbon steel for 30+ years and run a surface grinder daily. I don't run diamond wheels on the surface grinder, but then I don't ever grind carbide.

My comment about can't dress a diamond wheel was geared towards chain grinding wheels. Yes I can see the need for cleaning or de-glazing. I think of dressing as removing grit to expose new sharp grit and or reshaping a wheel. I do it all the time on the surface grinder with a stone wheel.
Oh I know I posted that.
High carbon steel wasn't a problem. We started using CBN wheels on the grinders starting with M42 and beyond. The Super HSS. Think 68 RC.
Have you tried a Norbide stick for dressing your wheel??
It is very light. it is a piece of CBN. One will last 20 years or more. Norton's trade name.
There are cheaper after market ones. Just as good.
 
Oh I know I posted that.
High carbon steel wasn't a problem. We started using CBN wheels on the grinders starting with M42 and beyond. The Super HSS. Think 68 RC.
Have you tried a Norbide stick for dressing your wheel??
It is very light. it is a piece of CBN. One will last 20 years or more. Norton's trade name.
There are cheaper after market ones. Just as good.
Not tried anything like a Nordide stick for dressing the surface grinder wheels. I've been using a diamond point for years. I'm not grinding end-mills or any tool blanks, etc. Just grinding flat forged stock to thickness and getting flat/parallel.
 
Howdy Brad,

This is not official but, in my mind this is where the geometry leads. The angle that your looking for changes slightly during the life of the chain. After sharpening, lay a square from the point of the tooth to the raker. Bring the wheel into alignment with the square.
Regards
Gregg
 

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Not tried anything like a Nordide stick for dressing the surface grinder wheels. I've been using a diamond point for years. I'm not grinding end-mills or any tool blanks, etc. Just grinding flat forged stock to thickness and getting flat/parallel.
Okay. I thougt you meant on an open wheel grinder.
Norbide is great to create a nice radius.
Then I check it with a single edge razor blade.
PM an address. I think I know where an extra Norbide is.
 
Have you tried a Norbide stick for dressing your wheel??
It is very light. it is a piece of CBN. One will last 20 years or more. Norton's trade name.
There are cheaper after market ones. Just as good.

What is the name of the aftermarket ones?
 
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