Chain in dirty wood

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bvaught said:
RM and RM2 chain is junk. Find some RS or better and learn how to handle a chainsaw.


I guess after using chainsaws for 40 years I still have some to learn. :laugh:
 
Fair enough Lobo. I made a smart a$$ed remark...thinking I knew it all... and ended up learning something. I still dont think I will buy any "green" chains.
 
bvaught said:
Fair enough Lobo. I made a smart a$$ed remark...thinking I knew it all... and ended up learning something. I still dont think I will buy any "green" chains.


It is the right chain for the job however.

Called the Stihl dealer he does not carry any RM2 in stock anyhow and tells me he would not have sold me any even if he did, he know me too well now. He does have some RM. He insisted i not file the rakers down on those as I do on my regular chains. I wonder why? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

As far as carbide he sells to fire departments and their rescue teams, just does'nt think its worth the price for other users.
 
IndyIan said:
..........cutting so the chain comes out through the dirt instead of cutting into the dirt .................Of course you need to have a clean side of the log you can get at for this but its something to look for.
Ian
......not if you bore through the center of the log, and take it from there.... ;).........and combine that with either what Glens or bwalker said!
 
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Thats what I meant, RM2 is junk. And I learned a little something about RM chain. When I get old I will use RM chain in dirty conditions because it has "marginally" better qualities for that application.
 
SawTroll said:
RM is nice for cutting dirty wood.
as I am having a love affair with the Oregon 95 VP. :blob2:


Hi SawTroll, what do you like about the 95 VP, pluses and minuses.
 
95vp

It is a narrow kerf chain, so it requires less power from the saw to cut. It does cut fast, some say even faster than 20LP and 23RS (haven't tried these myself) on smaller saws. It is also very smooth in the cut (low-wib chassis).
It has a high cutter profile, and a configuration somewhere between regular semi-chisel and chisel. Relatively good "stay-sharp", easy to sharpen.

Minuses?
Due to it's slimmer chassis I suspect that it is more prone to brakeage than other chain, and I don't think it is advicable to use it on saws much more than 55 cc's.
In theory at least, it requires spesial narrow kerf bars.

Otherwise?
Ask Tony Marks!
 
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I finally dulled my Stihl RD (carbide-tipped) chainby cutting out large stumps to about 6" below ground.. It was easily resharpened (much sharper than when brand-new) with a Dremel-type grinder with a 20mm diamond cut-off disk. I ran the grinder at half-speed and used the quick peck method to avoid overheating the disk. The grinder sharpened the last tooth as quickly as the first. I got the diamond disks at Harbor Frieght (package of 5 for a couple bucks). The chain then cut as good as a newly-sharpened full-chisel.
 
fishhuntcutwood said:
Out here in WA, can't say as I've seen any, but back home in southern Indiana, they're still be had. Take a stroll through most any part of Hoosier Nat'l Forest, and you'll see what I mean. And I only used 28" to illustrate the need for an aggressive, fast cutting chain, over the milder RM we're talking about here.

Take care all,
Jeff
There are still quite a few large oaks in Indiana. I own some property in Owen county, we still have quite a few large white oak, beach and ash trees.
 
Dirty wood

If you can find some chipper chain,it holds up better than semi or full chisel chain,under dirty conditions.I don't know if it's even made any more,but at one time,all that was available in this part of the country.I seldom use it,but I must have 20 or 30 loops of new stuff,of various pitches and lengths,that I have acquired over the years.
 

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