Chain only moves with loose barnuts.

[wdchuck]

I have an 075, 42" b/c for milling, when the barnuts are tightened the chain won't move enough to cut anything, and the when I hit the throttle it just chokes the engine. If the b/c is removed, then it revs fine, so I tried it with the barnuts just snug and put it in some wood for a buck cut, the looser nuts helped.

What I'm wondering is, when the shop I bought it from turned down the shoulders on the bar studs to accept all bars, is the outer cover plate now squeezing on too tightly?

Maybe I have to put in a shim against the bar?

Anybody run into this?

 

[PES+]

You will most likely have to run the bar without the side cover. Is this a laminated bar? It sounds like it

What brand is the bar?

I have guys that insist to me that they have to run their mills with the side cover and chainbrake but I really can't see how a chainbrake would add any safety in a milling set up.

I could be missing something though

 

[Butch(OH)]

Just so happens that I just went through this with my 660 Echo when I installed a new Windsor bar. Turns out the clutch cover was warped in the bar contact area and was pinching the rails before it was tight to the middle of the bar. Chucked it in the Bridgeport and flattened her out and everything was fine. A flat file would do the same thing. When I checked the old bar the rails were worn larger at the rear. I guess over time as the cover warped the bar was pinched just a bit and wore in but the new bar was pinched tight.

 

[PES+]

I was more concerned with the turned down studs doing the same pinching. For me using the cover still makes no sense but that's just my personal experience and if it makes people more comfortable I recommend they use the cover.

The other issue I can think of is a mis-match on the beginning of the bar end...if the angle is too steep from the leaving of the sprocket to the beginning of the bar rails this pinching can happen.

 

[wdchuck]

The outer cover/guard has two nibs on it to keep the rest of the plate off of the bar.

It would seem that the smaller shoulder on this saw allows the cover to go over the shoulder instead of butting against it.(my theory)

The bar is an Oregon power match, has some time on it, but doesn't appear abused.

I can try to run the saw with out the side cover, in a buck situation, with a deep cut started by a different saw, it'll be a little safer then. If that works then I know a shim or spacer of sorts will be necessary.



Thanks, I'll post back after trying that.

 

[Lakeside53]

I have guys that insist to me that they have to run their mills with the side cover and chainbrake but I really can't see how a chainbrake would add any safety in a milling set up.

I could be missing something though

You are... at the end of the cut it make a lot of sense to snap the brake on when the saw is idling... and when you are getting it set for the next run. Big bars, big saws, big chains and a lot of added mill weight can lead to accidents.

IMO... Running a mill without a sidecover is nuts... It gets run out of the wood... like when you are running the chain to get the oil though it again at the end of a long cut. Ever looked at the relative location of your knee and the chain when your pushing those last few cuts along the ground? But then, some still won't wear seat belts, or helmets, or..


It can't be all that hard to figure out where it's binding. First mount it without the cover (put nuts on with spacers if necessary) and move the chain by hand. Then coat the inside of the cover with something and look for the witness marks.

Are you sure all the parts are installed? like the inner and outer side plates? And yes, those are supposed to match the profile of your bar. If you are running the smaller mount bar you might need to change the side plates to a smaller type from another saw.

 

[JohnO]

I have an 041 that does the same thing. I my case, it was the side cover clamping down on the clutch drum. It actually carved a ring shaped groove into the side cover. I'm not familiar with your model of saw, but it's another potential contact point to look for.

-John

 

[PES+]

That can be a problem....it is the reason I would not turn down the studs as Stihl sets it's tension on the side cover with the step on the stud.

As far as running without a side cover, I use Granberg grind style because I find it cuts the fastest and keeps an edge longer while throwing LONG chips that pack the sidecover and can crack the cover.

I have never seen an 075 with a chainbrake but I must have missed this as well.

I did not state that I remove the brake from a newer Stihl because there is no reason to the brake works fine without the cover.

I find if someone is needing to set the brake between cuts his saw is ailing and using the safety brake as a stop gap degrades the performance of the brake when it is needed for it's intended function.

 

[Lakeside53]

That can be a problem....it is the reason I would not turn down the studs as Stihl sets it's tension on the side cover with the step on the stud.

As far as running without a side cover, I use Granberg grind style because I find it cuts the fastest and keeps an edge longer while throwing LONG chips that pack the sidecover and can crack the cover.

I have never seen an 075 with a chain brake but I must have missed this as well.

I did not state that I remove the brake from a newer Stihl because there is no reason to the brake works fine without the cover.

I find if someone is needing to set the brake between cuts his saw is ailing and using the safety brake as a stop gap degrades the performance of the brake when it is needed for it's intended function.

The shoulder on the stud does not set any side cover tension. The shoulder is just used to postion the bar. The clamping is purely the sandwich of the bar/cover/nuts.

You're the one that brought up "chain brake". Your quote wasn't limited to 075...

As for setting the brake "ailing" and degrades it... sorry, but that doesn't fly. We're not taking about slamming it on when the saw is reving, and if you need to use your brake to stop the chain running under normal condition, yes the clutch needs to be fixed. Normal never usually bites...

There's a lot of people that set the brake on all saws between cutting... and I'm one of them. Walking around with an running saw (no brake) in the woods is going to get you one day. Idling in a tree or on the ground - ditto.

Long chips? Well... I do a lot of milling and never had a cover pack on a mill... and I use granberg style mostly... The chips are far from long if milling... smaller then crosscutting and just dust mostly, either hardwood or softwood.


Pest - I'm not picking on you... there are lot of newbies that read these posts and I hate it when I see unsafe practices being promoted as o.k..

 

[wdchuck]

The bar in question is an Oregon, 42", .404 x .063, and is split on the clutch end, I'm fairly certain it is a large mount bar.

There was scoring on the plates, I will look more closely to see how everything fits.

Thanks.

 

[PES+]

I must agree

Don't mill without a brake for safety reasons

Don't do what I do....it is not reommended (seriously)
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME

 

[Lakeside53]

How about just not taking the side cover off... That's the real issue... The brake is a user choice.

 

[PES+]

Nope

I see no reason to be half safe.....I agree with being fully safe

 

[wdchuck]

Side cover has to come off to put the b/c on/off.

Okay, went out and looked at clearances, the two thin plates that hug the bar; on the top where they open up, the chain rivets are being held by the plates, so a shim of some sort would probably work, BUT, it seems like the bar is not suited for the saw, too short top-bottom.

Any suggestions?

I can take a pic, but my close-ups don't turn out very well, usually blurred.

 

[PES+]

I had suspected a mis match.
You can continue the machining/toggling of the saw or you could get another bar

 

[RiverRat2]

The shoulder on the stud does not set any side cover tension. The shoulder is just used to postion the bar. The clamping is purely the sandwich of the bar/cover/nuts.

You're the one that brought up "chain brake". Your quote wasn't limited to 075...

As for setting the brake "ailing" and degrades it... sorry, but that doesn't fly. We're not taking about slamming it on when the saw is reving, and if you need to use your brake to stop the chain running under normal condition, yes the clutch needs to be fixed. Normal never usually bites...

There's a lot of people that set the brake on all saws between cutting... and I'm one of them. Walking around with an running saw (no brake) in the woods is going to get you one day. Idling in a tree or on the ground - ditto.

Long chips? Well... I do a lot of milling and never had a cover pack on a mill... and I use granberg style mostly... The chips are far from long if milling... smaller then crosscutting and just dust mostly, either hardwood or softwood.


Pest - I'm not picking on you... there are lot of newbies that read these posts and I hate it when I see unsafe practices being promoted as o.k..

I have to agree with Andy on this one, I was cleaning up some tops just yesterday and the terrain was not very forgiving for moving about, sloping and very soft from recent rains,,,, The fallers had left a war zone looking mess as usual, (nothing out of the ordinary after they had gotten their prize) I have just gotten in the habit of applying the chain brake and its a good thing because I lost my footing in a limb hole while moving to the other side of the top, and fell with the saw running holding it by the top handle,,,, a limb hit the side of the rear handle and jazzed the trottle just a bit,,, well the brake held and the chain was clear of everything so no harm done,,,, but,,,, every time I moved after that I killed the saw and would relocate/reposition and restart,,,,,Chain brakes are there for a reason!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[PES+]

Why would anyone use a mill on a steep hillside?
I have used the brake the same way as you in the same situation but it is safer to kill the saw and move.

I was talking milling only and am sticking by my don't try this at home

I agree that all first time chainsaw millers use a brake and a side cover

 

[RiverRat2]

Why would anyone use a mill on a steep hillside?
I have used the brake the same way as you in the same situation but it is safer to kill the saw and move.

I was talking milling only and am sticking by my don't try this at home

I agree that all first time chainsaw millers use a brake and a side cover

My Bad pest!!!!!! did not realize it applied to milling only,,,,,,,,,,,,:monkey:

 

[PES+]

I am sorry I wasn't more clear:monkey:

Monkey is on me

I sharpen my chains differently than anyone else

 

[Lakeside53]

Why would anyone use a mill on a steep hillside?

'cos the 10,000lb log is there?