chain saw sharpener

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danp76

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I would like to sharpen my own chains. I was told filing by hand would be adequate, however, I wouldn't mind purchasing a sharpening tool. Harbor freight sells a sharpener, anyone have one? Which brand/model would be sufficient for a home user.
 
Yup, lots of reading if you search. Here's a summary:

If you're looking for a grinder, the grinder that Northern has been selling for $99 is a very good deal. It is substantially similar to the Oregon 511A/Tecomec136. The actual Tecomec version (which Oregon rebadges as their own) can be had for about $210 BIN on eBay, and the Oregon-branded version goes for about $300. MAXX also makes a very good grinder for a fair price, a bit over $300.

Grinders have their pros and cons, but if you have a light touch and don't burn the hell out of your cutters, they are a good way to do a lot of chains and depth gauges quickly and consistently. They are also the only good way to re-file any quantity of regular chains to the angles required for milling.

ericjeeper's Northern grinder:
NT_Grinder.jpg



Otherwise, a good file guide will do a fine job keeping chains sharp. You can go the clamp-on-the-bar route or the bench mounted. Either will work. If you have a saw shop that actually knows how to sharpen a chain (many do not), you might do well to hand sharpen (w/ or w/o a guide) for a half dozen times or so and then let the shop even up the angles with their grinder, and then go another half dozen sharpenings on your own.
 
Would the harbor freight version suffice for correcting the angles inbetween hand filing? I only cut on occasion, would the harbor freight do a decent job for what I need?
 
Would the harbor freight version suffice for correcting the angles inbetween hand filing? I only cut on occasion, would the harbor freight do a decent job for what I need?


I have that grinder. The ONLY way to buy that grinder is to find and entertainment book, ask the wife, buddies whatever, and use the coupons from it and catch the grinder on sale for $30 and use the coupon, it's a great buy then!! When it craps out you are out very little! Otherwise, save youre money and buy the Oregon from Ammicks, a site sponser here, last I knew they ran $140 and you don't have to modify everything to get it to cut right!
 
I didn't want to jump in here but...

...I'd say get good with a handfile for a while. If you don't cut that much a grinder will just sit in your garage/shop taking up needed space.

I like handfiling! When I have a hard time getting the cutters the same I'd take it in to have stihl grind em.

But I recently bought a new grinder from Northern Tool so I can even them out myself. I still plan on handfiling,though.

Do what you will but it doesn't seem to make economic sense unless you use it frequently.
 
I didn't want to jump in here but...

...I'd say get good with a handfile for a while. If you don't cut that much a grinder will just sit in your garage/shop taking up needed space.

I like handfiling! When I have a hard time getting the cutters the same I'd take it in to have stihl grind em.

But I recently bought a new grinder from Northern Tool so I can even them out myself. I still plan on handfiling,though.

Do what you will but it doesn't seem to make economic sense unless you use it frequently.

Sorry if that isn't what you want to hear it's just one man's opinion!! GOOD LUCK!
 
I like to be independent if I can, and don't mind investing a few bucks in a grinder, I do have several saws, and at $8 a wack it can get pricey at the dealer...is the harbor freight any good?
 
so, what is wrong with the harbor freight one??? will it work ok?

It depends on which box you grab! The first one I got cut four chains and the wheel shatterd, took it back and they gave me a new one. Second one sharppened five chains and all the magic black smoke came out of the motor! The third one has been going for about four months now.
It's plastic, and loose fitting plastic at that. Hold you're tounge wrong and you can move the head an 1/8" and not even know it!
Will it work? Yes. Is it worth the price? If bought on sale and with coupons, Yes. Don't pay $50, don't even pay the $30, get it as cheap as you can and be happy until you get the money for a better one, like I am doing!
 
I like to be independent if I can, and don't mind investing a few bucks in a grinder, I do have several saws, and at $8 a wack it can get pricey at the dealer...is the harbor freight any good?

Little math:

$140 grinder divide by $8 a chain = 17.5 times and it's paid for!!
 
which one is the best for the money? I don't mind spending a few extra bucks to get a nice one...the cost of bringing to a dealer adds up too fast!
 
I don't mind spending a few bucks to buy high quality. If maxx is the best for the price, where can I purchase one? How does it compare with the Oregon model? which model maxx?
 
Would the harbor freight version suffice for correcting the angles inbetween hand filing? I only cut on occasion, would the harbor freight do a decent job for what I need?

The cheap plastic HF grinder is a POS. I used to think it was OK for occasional use, but I've handled a few since then and they are not very sturdy. I *might* use it for depth gauges, but it is so damned flexy that I cannot imagine it producing consistent results even in that role.

The $99 NT grinder is the way to go in a cheap grinder. Alternatively, the entry-level Oregon one ($150 or less) could work, too. It isn't as adjustable as the other grinders (no +10 degree tilt on the chain holder or provision to sharpen hedge trimmers, I believe), but for zero-degree flat-filed chisel or semi-chisel it would do the job.

MAXX grinders can be had from a couple sources. Most everybody I know got theirs from Jeff Sikkema directly or through his eBay store. Otherwise, your other choices in a reasonably priced grinder are the extremely similar Oregon 511A, Tecomec 136, and Bailey's SpeedSharp. Any of these grinders will work quite nicely; they only differ slightly in their method of adjustment and operation from that on the MAXX, and neither design is clearly superior to the other.
 
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The cheap plastic HF grinder is a POS. I used to think it was OK for occasional use, but I've handled a few since then and they are not very sturdy. I *might* use it for depth gauges, but it is so damned flexy that I cannot imagine it producing consistent results even in that role.

The $99 NT grinder is the way to go in a cheap grinder. Alternatively, the entry-level Oregon one ($150 or less) could work, too. It isn't as adjustable as the other grinders (no +10 degree tilt on the chain holder or provision to sharpen hedge trimmers, I believe), but for zero-degree flat-filed chisel or semi-chisel it would do the job.

MAXX grinders can be had from a couple sources. Most everybody I know got theirs from Jeff Sikkema directly or through his eBay store. Otherwise, your other choices in a reasonably priced grinder are the extremely similar Oregon 511A, Tecomec 136, and Bailey's SpeedSharp. Any of these grinders will work quite nicely; they only differ slightly in their method of adjustment and operation from that on the MAXX, and neither design is clearly superior to the other.

I got my Maxx from Jeff and I'm very satisfied with it. It has more settings on it that helps a lot to get the proper angels that you want on your chain. Jim
 
so, what is wrong with the harbor freight one??? will it work ok?

It is what it is, i.e., a cheap plastic tool. I haven't had any problem with mine (yet) after a full season keeping 6 chains sharped. It is good for evening up the teeth after several hand filings. Others have pointed out the drawbacks. I haven't gotten _really_ good results with mine yet but I do better with every use. Will probably wind up using it just to even up the teeth and do a final sharping with a file.

Doing it over again, I would buy a better grinder.

Harry K
 

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