Chain sharpening cost

[jcappe]

Thanks guys, just trying to get an idea what to charge. We have been charging $8 which is what the previous shop in town was charging but I've been getting some resistance when people ask what we charge. I think I'll do anything under 20" to $6 and see what happens. We still have plenty of chains to sharpen at the $8. Just trying to figure out how to get the grinder to pay for itself. Although it may be part of the business that you don't make it back real quick, hopefully it brings in new customers. There are some people that want them hand filed which is fine with me I can do it just as fast in most cases if the chain isn't to bad. Plus I like doing it by hand more than the grinder. Thanks for the replies, you guys are great. Will throw some rep around when it lets me.

 

[blades]

I charge $6 up to a 24" bar, $8-10 after that. Each chain is cleaned in the media blaster with ground up corn cob as a medium. Chains are then ground just enough to clean up any damage both side equal. then the depth gauges are checked and lowered if needed.

 

[logbutcher]

I handfile but pay a pro to grind about 2 times per chain life just to true them up. I will sometimes have them ground just to get the rakers taken down - I hate doing rakers.Cost?
$7 30 miles away - very good job.
$4 4 miles away in town and overheat the chain so you can't file it - once only.
$10 1/2 mile down the road - overpriced and only got suckered in the one time. Did cut well after though.

Harry K

Dearest Harry:

PFERD
PS Does the rakers with each pass.
PPS Sold at Baileys

 

[logbutcher]

I charge 5.00 up-to 20" and treat it like its my own. in town they're charging 10.00 and all I hear about them is complaints. Blued, didn't do the drags, missed teeth. I don't mind doing chains, TE]

but everybody that operates saws, should learn how to sharpen by hand. If you're the one thats gotta sharpenin it, you'll learn real quick to keep out of the dirt. I know this can't ALWAYS be avoided, but you'll definetly pay closer attention to what and where you're cuttin.:greenchainsaw:[/QUO

:agree2:

PS Pferd

 

[iowawoodcutter]

Did not read the whole thread and don't know if anyone else said this, but be careful having someone else sharpen your chains. Some will take 50% or more of your chain off and not even do the depth gauges.

 

[iowawoodcutter]

I know alot on here sharpen their own chain but what is a fair price to you to have your chain sharpened by someone else. Grinder or hand filed? Thanks.

Just noticed you are from SE Iowa, if you are anywhere near the QCA, I would be glad to give you a quick lesson, for free or a couple of beers...either one is fine.

 

[logbutcher]

Just noticed you are from SE Iowa, if you are anywhere near the QCA, I would be glad to give you a quick lesson, for free or a couple of beers...either one is fine.

Gees, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, another
"Will sharpen for Beer":monkey:
#2

 

[Somesawguy]

Did not read the whole thread and don't know if anyone else said this, but be careful having someone else sharpen your chains. Some will take 50% or more of your chain off and not even do the depth gauges.

That's my dads biggest complaints about the local dealer, They really chew the chain up. They ground mine down quite a bit when I had them even it up.

 

[Rassmo]

Just got the new PFERD filing guide from Bailey's. Gotta say it's GREAT! Easy to get just the right angle and depth and with this new version there's no need to flip the files when switching from left teeth to right teeth. A little expensive for a guide but man does it do a good job. Much sharper than the local shop used to get them when I took em in to get ground. They charged $5 to sharpen and took quite a bit off the teeth so the guide will pay for itself very quickly. Here's the one I bought. It also keeps the rakers at just the right depth with a seperate built in file.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17304&catID=

 

[builder1101]

i bought the attachment for my dremel, had to get used to it versus the hand file, man, im serious, it was worth the money..

about 2 mins flat i can touch up a chain....

 

[KMB]

$7 30 miles away - very good job.
$4 4 miles away in town and overheat the chain so you can't file it - once only.
$10 1/2 mile down the road - overpriced and only got suckered in the one time. Did cut well after though.

I also hand file my own chains, but there are times when I need to get a chain done with a grinder (rock damage or to true up the angles). I have yet to find a good 'local' (within 30 miles) shop who I am fully satisfied with. I have some .325" chain to do and not sure who to go to. My concern is that they'll use the same wheel that they us on 3/8" chain.

Kevin

 

[logbutcher]

I also hand file my own chains, but there are times when I need to get a chain done with a grinder (rock damage or to true up the angles). I have yet to find a good 'local' (within 30 miles) shop who I am fully satisfied with. I have some .325" chain to do and not sure who to go to. My concern is that they'll use the same wheel that they us on 3/8" chain.Kevin

It's rare Kevin, even with a rock gouged tooth or two, that the chain needs more than +/- 10 strokes using a hand filing guide ( my bias is PFERD ). Not the case however for PNW long bars over 28". Butt, we in the northeast don't need bars much over 20".

In the way past when my chains were brought a local pro shop, the chains invariably came back 'burnt' and/or ground down too far. Many dealers give the sharpening to the new kids. The cost of a few dealer sharpenings will pay for one of the excellent hand filing guides available.

And, change files often. They wear and clog quickly.

JMNSHO

 

[woodman44]

What I do and recommend if you do not sharpen your own chain is to buy 10 chains. Go though 9 of them and take them all to be sharpened at once. Key is to make sure they use a machine so that they can put the factory angle back on and do not use a round file. Round file works great but factory angles will hold sharp 5 times longer if you keep it out of the dirt. Also you should be able to get a better price by taking them in together.

 

[sawkiller]

What I do and recommend if you do not sharpen your own chain is to buy 10 chains. Go though 9 of them and take them all to be sharpened at once. Key is to make sure they use a machine so that they can put the factory angle back on and do not use a round file. Round file works great but factory angles will hold sharp 5 times longer if you keep it out of the dirt. Also you should be able to get a better price by taking them in together.

Keep reading my friend! Unless you are using some specialty chain then a file will work just fine and the angles are correct if done properly! I routinely get a chain that cuts better than new when I am finished with filing it. As for longevity of the edge that has more to do with what I am cutting and how clean I keep it but a new chain's edge doesn't last any longer. I simply use a round file properly sized for the chain and swap files often.

As for grinding if they blued your chain then your chain will have 5 times less edge life for sure! I have not seen anyone file aggressively enough to overheat a chain yet.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Dearest Harry:

PFERD
PS Does the rakers with each pass.
PPS Sold at Baileys

:agree2:

I've just started sharpening my own. I'm probably lousy at it. I did one Saturday, and I thoiught it looked pretty bad. Fired up the saw and tackled a big oak round.

Cut like a hot knife through butter. I was really surprised.


Pferd. Takes care of the rakers. The new version does left and right sides with no fussing. Gonna get one for my new saw.

 

[7sleeper]

What I do and recommend if you do not sharpen your own chain is to buy 10 chains. Go though 9 of them and take them all to be sharpened at once. Key is to make sure they use a machine so that they can put the factory angle back on and do not use a round file. Round file works great but factory angles will hold sharp 5 times longer if you keep it out of the dirt.....

Please rethink what you have written.

After some training with a round file, or if you prefer sqaure ground chain, with a sqaure file, you will never look back. A grinder is very good if you have larger amounts of chains to file or if you have had enemy(stones,nails,etc.) contact. But for the average homeowner and woodcutter, I find a chaingrinder a unecessary luxery. A good file and guide would be enough.

7

 

[banshee67]

:agree2:

I've just started sharpening my own. I'm probably lousy at it. I did one Saturday, and I thoiught it looked pretty bad. Fired up the saw and tackled a big oak round.

Cut like a hot knife through butter. I was really surprised.


Pferd. Takes care of the rakers. The new version does left and right sides with no fussing. Gonna get one for my new saw.

i love the pfred filing guide... i think its hilarious how they came out with a new one that "saves you the time" of having to pop the file and handle out and switch sides to do other side of cutters... i mean cmon.. what does it take to unsnap the top and bottom and flip the file/handle around... 5.. maybe 6 seconds then another 5 for the depth gauge file. i guess if i had the choice between both id buy the new one, but it just cameout so ill stick with the "old fashion" one
one great little file guide though!

 

[woodman44]

I know one can hand sharpen as well if you have the time and it will cut as well or better than a machine sharpen. It will not how ever hold the edge as long as the factory angle which a machine can do.

Keep reading my friend! Unless you are using some specialty chain then a file will work just fine and the angles are correct if done properly! I routinely get a chain that cuts better than new when I am finished with filing it. As for longevity of the edge that has more to do with what I am cutting and how clean I keep it but a new chain's edge doesn't last any longer. I simply use a round file properly sized for the chain and swap files often.

As for grinding if they blued your chain then your chain will have 5 times less edge life for sure! I have not seen anyone file aggressively enough to overheat a chain yet.

 

[ryan_marine]

I have a grinder and hand files. If you want them ground it is $5 and just leave the chain. If you want a hand filed then $7 and leave the saw. I do the sharpning in the evening after I am done cutting for the day. I have wheels that will do the smallest of chains all the way up to harvester chains. I bought my grinder on CL from a guy that was retireing. He gave me all of his wheels. Best purchace I ever made.

Ray

 

[7sleeper]

I know one can hand sharpen as well if you have the time and it will cut as well or better than a machine sharpen. It will not how ever hold the edge as long as the factory angle which a machine can do.

I meant no offence. Are you "undercutting" the cutter too much with the file and thus making a super sharp edge that won't hold to long? That might be the problem. I haven't had the impression so far that my handfiled chains stay less long sharp. Maybe someone else has any ideas.

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