I wonder how Klotz R50 / original techniplate perform at ratios of 50:1 and above. I know R50 reminds me of pancake syrup when cold.
Chainsaw 2 Cycle Oil Poll
- Thread starter TN Cattleman
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They perform fine at 50to1, at least as well as any other "race" oil. Idk why you would want to though. There's no benefit to it.
Original Techniplate is fine. R50 turns to black bubblegum in every saw I’ve seen it in
That's what I have seen with R50 as well in Chainsaws. In bikes it works better if your loaded up all the time.
Heavy ester oils like H1R and R50 are really counter productive in saws.
Good point, I've never ran r50 in a saw, super techniplate and original techniplate with no real issues, however I wouldn't be looking at r50 or any version of klotz to run in a saw.
HansFranz
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's right, it filets, it chops, it dices, slices,
Never stops, lasts a lifetime, mows your lawn
And it mows your lawn and it picks up the kids from school
It gets rid of unwanted facial hair, it gets rid of embarrassing age spots,
It delivers a pizza, and it lengthens, and it strengthens
And it finds that slipper that's been at large
under the chaise lounge for several weeks
And it plays a mean Rhythm Master,
It makes excuses for unwanted lipstick on your collar
And it's only a dollar, step right up, it's only a dollar, step right up
As Kevin mentioned Scamsoil won't even step up and warranty failures for taking their poor advice. That's telling.
Years back I bought some Saber on a wim and tried 5 gallons of it at 50:1. Didn't seem like anything special to me at all. Probably because it's not.
Redbull claimed that heavy ester oils like H1R and R50 made less power when ran in chainsaws. I wouldn't be suprised if he was right.
Back in the late 1980's Yamaha discovered that mineral oil combined with synthetic PIB was the best solution to two cycle oils from a wear and HP standpoint. Here we are 30+ years latter and most all FC and FD oils are are formulated like that. They few that are not use a light ester combined with PIB.
2 saws , that have gone into after using the Amsoil Have worked on a Husqvarna and a Homelite putting in a couple of years on both cutting non commercial, weekend jobs . Homelite case got busted , got another short block . Getting in there crankcase looked nice, saw no thick/ sticky residue, bottom of piston looked good. On the Husqvarna did a head gasket delete.Got an inspection mirror and looked at crank case , bottom end looked nice. 80:1. No milling with saw ,just dropping, and bucking, limbing .
At 50:1 with saber in a saw, there is no puddle where excess oil has dripped from the crank. None.
It works fine because most don’t use a saw enough to wear out the bearings
A puddle of oil in the crankcase is what it should look like and the hour component is a huge factor.
Guys think that if you use crap oil that the motor immediately goes south. That's not what happens. It's chronic damage over time and not Acute causing immediately failure.
I also get a kick out of guys using old clunker Homelites. Yea the saw is 50 some years old and yea it still runs, but that's only because it doesn't have very many hours on it. A faller is lucky to get two years out of a saw and power starts to drop off well before that.
Just mix it stronger and you can tell by the smoke, LOL!
Timber MacFallen
ArboristSite Operative
Forget all those fancy oils and marketing. This one smells the best and mixes good at 25:1.
I've heard of people running biodiesel for two stroke oil at 10:1.
It doesn't smoke and the color is a very faint light blue.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
When I was a kid, I had a SAAB, it had a 3 cyl. 2 stroke motor in it and when it needed fuel, I'd go to the cheapest gas station and put a qt of 30w in the tank and fill it with gas.
The tank wasn't all that big, and it would put out some smoke when you accelerated, the car ran/lasted just fine.
SR
The tank wasn't all that big, and it would put out some smoke when you accelerated, the car ran/lasted just fine.
SR
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
Amsoil products have been tested by JASO. They do what they say.
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
What is absurd? When I got my first chainsaw, the recommended oil mix was 16:1. At that time, no one imagined ratios as high as 32:1, much less 50:1. Yet that has been proven to work. The oil technology has improved that much. It is not inconceivable to me that an oil could work at 100:1, though I am more comfortable using Amsoil at 50:1. That having been said, as long as all parts are coated with oil, more oil will not improve lubricity. It will just get blowen out in the exhaust as smoke. I don't know what the upper limit may be, but I would bet we are not there yet.
Amsoil claims that they meet Jaso specs, but I don’t know that any have been tested
Smitty Smithsonite
ArboristSite Operative
When I was turning wrenches full time for 14 years, everything 2-stroke, regardless of age, got Amsoil Saber at 100:1, as does all my equipment then and now. Never once have I seen a lubrication failure. My little homeowner Husqvarna saw is 20 years old, along with my Echo weedwhacker - both bought in summer of '03. Both still have over 130 PSI compression ice cold.
What I've found over the years is it's usually tuning that's off, and the oil gets blamed. These days there really isn't a "bad" oil out there - just some are better than others.
What I've found over the years is it's usually tuning that's off, and the oil gets blamed. These days there really isn't a "bad" oil out there - just some are better than others.
