Chainsaw 2 Cycle Oil Poll

[Timber MacFallen]

This teardown (done by a small engine mechanic) of a saw run at 80:1 with Amsoil does not instill sufficient confidence in going 100:1 with any oil:

I prefer to be in the 40:1 to 50:1 range with oils in general- as oil is cheap and I prefer to err on the side of caution. That said, running really high oil mixes on new saws that run a lean air/fuel ratio from the factory just increases engine temperatures and creates an even leaner condition.

If you have a high performance saw that's pushed to the limit and have the ability to manipulate jetting, by all means run 32:1 though. Jetting and use are important factors.

 

[bwalker]

Amsoil products have been tested by JASO. They do what they say.

No they have not.

 

[bwalker]

What is absurd? When I got my first chainsaw, the recommended oil mix was 16:1. At that time, no one imagined ratios as high as 32:1, much less 50:1. Yet that has been proven to work. The oil technology has improved that much. It is not inconceivable to me that an oil could work at 100:1, though I am more comfortable using Amsoil at 50:1. That having been said, as long as all parts are coated with oil, more oil will not improve lubricity. It will just get blowen out in the exhaust as smoke. I don't know what the upper limit may be, but I would bet we are not there yet.

What your failing to realise is something called migration time. Oil doesn't move through a two cycle at a steady rate. As RPM and Load go up it moves through the motor faster. So you can essentially be over lubri aged at light load and under lubricated at high load using the same ratio.
There isn't a single good reason to use 100:1 beyond Scamsoils marketing BS.

 

[bwalker]

This teardown (done by a small engine mechanic) of a saw run at 80:1 with Amsoil does not instill sufficient confidence in going 100:1 with any oil:

I prefer to be in the 40:1 to 50:1 range with oils in general- as oil is cheap and I prefer to err on the side of caution. That said, running really high oil mixes on new saws that run a lean air/fuel ratio from the factory just increases engine temperatures and creates an even leaner condition.

If you have a high performance saw that's pushed to the limit and have the ability to manipulate jetting, by all means run 32:1 though. Jetting and use are important factors.

Looks like the big end got a little toasty. And with the engine running rich based on the piston wash.

 

[OM617YOTA]

When I was turning wrenches full time for 14 years, everything 2-stroke, regardless of age, got Amsoil Saber at 100:1, as does all my equipment then and now. Never once have I seen a lubrication failure. My little homeowner Husqvarna saw is 20 years old, along with my Echo weedwhacker - both bought in summer of '03. Both still have over 130 PSI compression ice cold.

What I've found over the years is it's usually tuning that's off, and the oil gets blamed. These days there really isn't a "bad" oil out there - just some are better than others.

You're not clear on this, were you turning wrenches at a small engine shop, and putting 100:1 mix in customer's equipment?

 

[sean donato]

What is absurd? When I got my first chainsaw, the recommended oil mix was 16:1. At that time, no one imagined ratios as high as 32:1, much less 50:1. Yet that has been proven to work. The oil technology has improved that much. It is not inconceivable to me that an oil could work at 100:1, though I am more comfortable using Amsoil at 50:1. That having been said, as long as all parts are coated with oil, more oil will not improve lubricity. It will just get blowen out in the exhaust as smoke. I don't know what the upper limit may be, but I would bet we are not there yet.

Those mix ratios of old were with engine oil, nothing specifically designed for a 2 cycle engine. Even so some of these ratios are still reccomended to this day with modern 2 cycle oil. Nowhere ever have I seen or heard of a manufacturer or reputable engine builder recommending 100 to 1 or 80 to 1 ratios. They are absurd, for a multitude of other reasons as well.

 

[bwalker]

Those mix ratios of old were with engine oil, nothing specifically designed for a 2 cycle engine. Even so some of these ratios are still reccomended to this day with modern 2 cycle oil. Nowhere ever have I seen or heard of a manufacturer or reputable engine builder recommending 100 to 1 or 80 to 1 ratios. They are absurd, for a multitude of other reasons as well.

Yamaha did recommend 100:1 for some of their outboards. What I noticed running them commercially is that they were down on power after 2 seasons, while those ran at 50:1 were not.
For an air cooled motor 100:1 is absurd.

 

[Lionsfan]

Those mix ratios of old were with engine oil, nothing specifically designed for a 2 cycle engine. Even so some of these ratios are still reccomended to this day with modern 2 cycle oil. Nowhere ever have I seen or heard of a manufacturer or reputable engine builder recommending 100 to 1 or 80 to 1 ratios. They are absurd, for a multitude of other reasons as well.

I had a 4hp Yamaha Outboard that specified 100-1, but I always ran it on the pre-mixed 50-1 that came out of a bulk tank at the boat dock. In fact, I was driving an old Dodge truck that I ran on pre=mix also since it was .40 cents cheaper per gallon than unleaded.

 

[bwalker]

I had a 4hp Yamaha Outboard that specified 100-1, but I always ran it on the pre-mixed 50-1 that came out of a bulk tank at the boat dock. In fact, I was driving an old Dodge truck that I ran on pre=mix also since it was .40 cents cheaper per gallon than unleaded.

When I owned my fishing lodge everything ran on 50:1 boat gas out of our bulk tank. Including Fourwheelers and GMC trucks.

 

[bwalker]

I had a 4hp Yamaha Outboard that specified 100-1, but I always ran it on the pre-mixed 50-1 that came out of a bulk tank at the boat dock. In fact, I was driving an old Dodge truck that I ran on pre=mix also since it was .40 cents cheaper per gallon than unleaded.

BTW go Lions!

 

[OM617YOTA]

Never did understand why people play "how close can I get to running my engine without oil" roulette.

 

[sean donato]

I had a 4hp Yamaha Outboard that specified 100-1, but I always ran it on the pre-mixed 50-1 that came out of a bulk tank at the boat dock. In fact, I was driving an old Dodge truck that I ran on pre=mix also since it was .40 cents cheaper per gallon than unleaded.

This is true, I wasn't going to delve into water cooled marine engine though. on that topic, oil injected engines vary the ratio of oil quite a bit too. We have to stab for worst case scenario ie, high rpm high load. 100 to 1 isn't a good margin for error.

 

[Lionsfan]

This is true, I wasn't going to delve into water cooled marine engine though. on that topic, oil injected engines vary the ratio of oil quite a bit too. We have to stab for worst case scenario ie, high rpm high load. 100 to 1 isn't a good margin for error.

Don't put too much faith in what I say, I'm running Amsoil in my saws.

 

[ammoaddict]

Here i am still running cheap stuff at 32:1 current mix is Casey's 2 cycle oil

32:1 is too much oil. 33.5 : 1 is the way to go.

 

[bwalker]

Never did understand why people play "how close can I get to running my engine without oil" roulette.

It's called swallowing dirt bag marketing hook, line and sinker.

 

[RollinCoal02]

Redbull claimed that heavy ester oils like H1R and R50 made less power when ran in chainsaws. I wouldn't be suprised if he was right.
Back in the late 1980's Yamaha discovered that mineral oil combined with synthetic PIB was the best solution to two cycle oils from a wear and HP standpoint. Here we are 30+ years latter and most all FC and FD oils are are formulated like that. They few that are not use a light ester combined with PIB.

I will agree with this statement. I was running r50 40:1 in all my 2 stroke Equiptment. Switched to Schaeffers 2 cycle oil and woke everything right up. Everything I had felt like they opened right up with more power.

 

[bwalker]

I will agree with this statement. I was running r50 40:1 in all my 2 stroke Equiptment. Switched to Schaeffers 2 cycle oil and woke everything right up. Everything I had felt like they opened right up with more power.

Schaeffers is marine oil. I tried some years ago in a lawnboy and it worked about like all boat oils work.

 

[HansFranz]

Schaeffers is marine oil. I tried some years ago in a lawnboy and it worked about like all boat oils work.

Ashy?

 

[Hermio]

As Kevin mentioned Scamsoil won't even step up and warranty failures for taking their poor advice. That's telling.
Years back I bought some Saber on a wim and tried 5 gallons of it at 50:1. Didn't seem like anything special to me at all. Probably because it's not.

I have only a limited number of hours using Amsoil 2 cycle oil in my chainsaws. But I have used their motor oils both for gasoline and diesel engines with extended drain intervals for literally millions of vehicle miles. Never had any oil-related problems. They perform better in both the wear test and volatility test than any other oil on the market. So I am pretty confident using the Saber product in my MS500i. I use a 50:1 ratio. Other posters here have used 100:1 on multiple engines without problems.

 

[Husky77]

100/1 yep use my oil its the best, everyone says so. small print.... if the engine blows up it cant be the oil must be something you done. I'm sticking to 50/1 and keep my chain sharp and saw clean. I just had a saw last night to sharpen for a farmer friend, the case vent holes were so clogged with oily dust I'm surprised it didnt over heat and stop, he was mainly cutting small (2"-4" stuff) and judging by how much oil was on the outside I think fuel mixture could have been hit or miss. Some just never learn and just chuck anything in the tank.