Chainsaw cutting help

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stihlman260

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hey im wonderin some techniques for cross cutting. i really want to learn how buck the log without gettin it into the dirt and not having to make cuts on both sides of the log. i know raisin the log is technique, but im talkin about when a tree is felled in teh woods and part of it aint raised. anyone know any tips it would bve really apprectiated
 
hey im wonderin some techniques for cross cutting. i really want to learn how buck the log without gettin it into the dirt and not having to make cuts on both sides of the log. i know raisin the log is technique, but im talkin about when a tree is felled in teh woods and part of it aint raised. anyone know any tips it would bve really apprectiated

It's a tried and true technique, one imitated by all, but mastered by few. It's called commom sense.

PS, next time, for your first post, a more appropriate question would be, "what hole do I put the bar oil in, and what hole do i put the gas in.
 
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Easy! Little known & seldom used technique.

Use this trick, and your problems are almost over. Seldom used, even by most professionals, and it is faster and easier than turning the logs. I'll bet many of the super-pro's on this site have never tried it!


1. Make an initial top cut, at least 1/2 way through the log. Deep enough that you won't hit the wedge when it is installed.

2. Pound in a wedge into the top. Plastic wedges work best, because they won't dull your saw when you screw up and hit them.

3. Finish the cut.

When you finish the cut, be sure that the handle of the saw contacts the ground first. Then follow through until the body of the saw is flat on the ground, then tip it down until the log is finished and you have not hit the dirt. You can tell when you have finished the cut,because the log will usually settle back down to the ground and the whole gap will open, even at the bottom.

If it is the right sized log, you can even lift the log off the ground sometimes by driving in the wedge until it opens the gap at the top. You will be amazed at how heavy a log you can lift with a little wedge and a splitting axe. This technique almost never pinches a saw, and allows you to cut up a log that is too big to roll over.

or...

If you are just cutting up little firewood sized pieces of wood, hold your saw vertical to the ground and cut PARALLEL to the ground with the tip of the bar, instead of towards the ground. When you've finished the cut, your saw will pass through into open air, rather than the dirt.


This question should probably have been posted in the arborist 101 section. The answers you get in this forum are likely to be a bit caustic for what would be considered simple questions.
 
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Nonsense!

I used to roll the log over, but then I learned how do it faster and easier. We are talking about LOGS here, not little branches, right?

Yeah dude, logs. Like PV bar, or if you've been around, depth the gauge yourself and try not and bury the chain in the dirt.
 
Here's what I do when I fall a tree:

First I limb it being careful to read where the tension is on the limbs and not pinch my bar. Once I have it limbed I start from the top and work my way towards the stump. In almost every situation this is going to relieve the tension a little at a time as you cut saw logs or firewood sticks off of the end; The trunk tends to raise a little every cut as you cut from the top down. Keep an eye on the kerf and if you are not using a wedge stop before the gap closes enough to pinch your bar. If you can get all the way through the cut great, if not just pull your saw out and move on to the next cut. Eventually you are going to get to a spot where you can make a complete cut through the trunk. Always keep your saw level when you are completing a cut and instead of running it wide open start gunning it and slow your cutting down. This will help you keep from completing the cut too fast and allowing the bar to dip into the dirt. Also, as long as you are keeping your saw level you can set the bottom of the power head right on the ground without getting the bar in the dirt provided you have the bar installed with the tip up (of the bar) and are cutting on level ground. Once you have made your top cuts down the whole length of the trunk go back and roll the sections where you have been able to already make complete cuts through the log. Roll the sections over and complete the cuts now that you have them at the top position of the log. I like to complete the cuts with the top side of the tip of my bar but be careful of kickback if you do that.

Hope this helps.
 
Here's what I do when I fall a tree:

First I limb it being careful to read where the tension is on the limbs and not pinch my bar. Once I have it limbed I start from the top and work my way towards the stump. In almost every situation this is going to relieve the tension a little at a time as you cut saw logs or firewood sticks off of the end; The trunk tends to raise a little every cut as you cut from the top down. Keep an eye on the kerf and if you are not using a wedge stop before the gap closes enough to pinch your bar. If you can get all the way through the cut great, if not just pull your saw out and move on to the next cut. Eventually you are going to get to a spot where you can make a complete cut through the trunk. Always keep your saw level when you are completing a cut and instead of running it wide open start gunning it and slow your cutting down. This will help you keep from completing the cut too fast and allowing the bar to dip into the dirt. Also, as long as you are keeping your saw level you can set the bottom of the power head right on the ground without getting the bar in the dirt provided you have the bar installed with the tip up (of the bar) and are cutting on level ground. Once you have made your top cuts down the whole length of the trunk go back and roll the sections where you have been able to already make complete cuts through the log. Roll the sections over and complete the cuts now that you have them at the top position of the log. I like to complete the cuts with the top side of the tip of my bar but be careful of kickback if you do that.

Hope this helps.
Wow,
Thanks DB for helping me out like that on my first post. you are def bi-polar.
 
Ducaticorse....I understand Ducati is for your motorcycle appreciation but maybe "corse" should be spelled "course" as in how abrasive you responded to a new guy....as we were all new at some point. Share the knowledge
 
Sounds like another loud mouth who cannot handle his alcohol... And would never dream of talking to some of the men on this site like that if he was up close and personal... :hmm3grin2orange:
 
I thought the missing letter was an "a". As in "coarse", the style of communication he prefers.

[EDIT: I researched some of his other posts, and ol' Ducati... seems to be an ok guy. I suspect he is just having a bad week.]
 
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Sounds like another loud mouth who cannot handle his alcohol... And would never dream of talking to some of the men on this site like that if he was up close and personal... :hmm3grin2orange:

LOL, hit that nail right on the head. These things should have breathylizers on them ha ha... Soorrryyyyy
 
Nonsense!

I used to roll the log over, but then I learned how do it faster and easier. We are talking about LOGS here, not little branches, right?

And BTW, a felling wedge or two is an excellent tool to have with you when sawing big logs, felling trees or cutting stumps.

If you ever get a saw pinched up it is very handy. If you are using one while bucking large logs, you'll never get your saw pinched in the first place.
 

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