If it's 15%, keep it away from air cooled engines like your lawnmower.I use 87 E0 because there is no 90 or 93 E0. Ethanol fuel at the pumps is 15% and i don't have problems i use standard oil mixed at 40:1
If it's 15%, keep it away from air cooled engines like your lawnmower.I use 87 E0 because there is no 90 or 93 E0. Ethanol fuel at the pumps is 15% and i don't have problems i use standard oil mixed at 40:1
Interesting discussion, so here's my limited experience.
I live in the UK where ethanol free fuel is freely available, so I use it. Stores for a year in a can with no problem. Left in a saw for a year it's horrible.
If I can't get ethanol free, then I add water and remove the ethanol, see youtube multiple vids. This is easy to do but takes time and by the time you've removed the 5-10% ethanol, then your fuel is more expensive than the premium ethanol free. In addition, it reduces the octane reading but it seems to work ok. My ethanol free is 99 octane but this doesn't seem to matter.
I avoid canned fuels as not only are they ridiculously expensive but you see some sensible people have real issues with them. No personal experience though.
If I'm storing a saw, then I pour out the fuel and add 30 mls of 1:10 oil:fuel mix. I turn off the kill switch and pull it over 10 times to fill the carb and cylinder with oil.
Just my experience but would welcome other's comments
Yes I just saw that and as you say bad bad news. Will be interesting to test the "premium" fuels from the big garages and see how much ethanol they actually have in them. Trouble then is that that may not remain consistent.
I run ethanol free 87 in everything. My car and older truck doesn't like E15 it triggers the CEL.One thing I always want everyone to understand again and that is, corn alcohol is always mixed with pure gasoline at the fueling rack and it's done on per tank truck basis, so if it says 10% ethanol on the pump, in reality it can be any percentage depending on who at the fuel rack is controlling the blending. I know people really don't believe that but it's true and I know personally because I pulled a tanker (gas and diesel) for a couple years so I witnessed it first hand and obvious to me (painfully) that the regular unleaded ethanol gas I bought at the local filling station had way more than the mandated (here in Michigan) percentage in it. One of the reasons why I went to canned fuel actually.
Motor fuel tankers went through a radical change about 20 years ago as well. They went from top load (via a lid )(manhole) on the top to bottom load and unload and they all have vapor recovery in them which you have to hook up to the vacuum setup at the loading rack. Where the vapors' go, I have no idea but they get sucked out of the tank anyway.
Least I didn't waste it. We have 2 flex fuel vehicles so it went in them... and again, flex fuel vehicles don't have any rubber fuel lines in the. all metal and maybe stainless (not sure), but for sure, no rubber. Never ran either on E85. I've heard the fuel mileage drops way off so I refrain from using it and it is available here.
my car and truck runs fine on marathon / arco ethanol free if i use shell 87 e15 they don't run good. engine bucking and pinging.Another member brought up the fact that ethanol was introduced to replace MTBE, which was introduced to replace lead as an anti-knock additive. I would assume that anyone who drives a classic vehicle and seeks out E0 fuel is probably adding a bottled anti-knock treatment at every fill up.
Are there unforseen consequences to using E0 fuel in vehicles built in the post lead era?
Another member brought up the fact that ethanol was introduced to replace MTBE, which was introduced to replace lead as an anti-knock additive. I would assume that anyone who drives a classic vehicle and seeks out E0 fuel is probably adding a bottled anti-knock treatment at every fill up.
Are there unforseen consequences to using E0 fuel in vehicles built in the post lead era?
Enter your email address to join: