Chainsaw Purchase Advice
- Thread starter EvoOneMkVIII
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
ihookem
ArboristSite Operative
The Echo 501P has 17% more horsepower from many sources. If it was the same, the 501P would not sell at all. I just ran another tank with my Echo 501 . I cut some dead ash and a 12" red Elm. That Red Elm is some darn hard wood and the Echo 501 did just fine. If i had more rounds, I would have grabbed the Echo 620. Now, the 620 has 20% more CC's but I bet it cuts 50% faster though. They did something to that saw that really makes it an ideal saw. I could easily sell my Stihl 441 and be fine with the 620. However, firewood is going to get very hard to get again now that natural gas hit $9.00 last week, albeit for a very short time and now down to $7.00. It dipped down to $1.55 two yrs. ago. This makes firewood wanna bees come out of the wood work. It was real hard to get firewood 10 yrs. ago and the only stuff left was 30 to 42" soft maple rounds where I get my wood. It will come to that soon and the 620 is a little small for that stuff.
Good for Sam! Those old saws need love too...Despite being antiques, they are like those old steam tractor shows......its fun to see one run....
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
I recommend the 261. The Stihls aren't cheap, but worth the cost of admission if you're cutting daily IMO. I also really like the M-tronic...I own 2 M-tronic saws myself(201tc-m, and 400) and use other M-tronics at my regular job(261,362, and 462,) all the modern ones have been flawless and the system runs really well.
If you do go the 261 route, throw a 20" bar on there. It's less you have to reach and, especially in pine, the 261 won't have an issue pulling it. At work, I converted all of our 261s to 3/8 pitch chain on 20" bars. Being able to run a little bit longer bar is such an energy saver IMO. Instead of having to bend over as far or having to hold the saw out away from you, you can keep the powerhead close to your body and not work your arms as much.
If you do go the 261 route, throw a 20" bar on there. It's less you have to reach and, especially in pine, the 261 won't have an issue pulling it. At work, I converted all of our 261s to 3/8 pitch chain on 20" bars. Being able to run a little bit longer bar is such an energy saver IMO. Instead of having to bend over as far or having to hold the saw out away from you, you can keep the powerhead close to your body and not work your arms as much.
If your truly cutting like you say a 50cc comercial grade saw is what you want.
Why on earth would a guy mess with old Macs or take saws to the dealer for Service and repairs.
026 260 261 346 357 359
Id probly choose the 261 and make sure to feed it noneathonal fuel if you can
For your kinda cutting I might even bare with a 562 or 70cc Husky/stihl.I find little saws work me as much or more than a 70cc with long bar.
But long big saws are not for everyone.
Probly just use what you have till it quits then buy whatever is close to replace it.
Why on earth would a guy mess with old Macs or take saws to the dealer for Service and repairs.
026 260 261 346 357 359
Id probly choose the 261 and make sure to feed it noneathonal fuel if you can
For your kinda cutting I might even bare with a 562 or 70cc Husky/stihl.I find little saws work me as much or more than a 70cc with long bar.
But long big saws are not for everyone.
Probly just use what you have till it quits then buy whatever is close to replace it.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
+1 On the longer bar. I agree it's not everyone's preferred method, but for falling/limbing small trees, I like a 60-70cc saw with a 28" lightweight bar. I'd rather deal with a marginally heavier powerhead and be able to stand up to buck/limb, than having to bend over with a lighter saw.
Hey EVO ,I Iive north of you in Taos area. My forestry thinning crew works a lot of P&J country ... a 50cc saw with a sharp chain is what many use until we get into bigger mountain timber . Remember....When re-sharpening your chain make sure you take down the rakers a bit !
Motodad369
ArboristSite Lurker
Poulan 4000 with a bow. Just be sure you're fit enough to run it. Totally eliminates the bending over and such.
ALWAYS AND I MEAN ALWAYS LEAVE ALL GUARDS ON A BOW SAW!!!!
ALWAYS AND I MEAN ALWAYS LEAVE ALL GUARDS ON A BOW SAW!!!!
Bearcat22lr
just some guy that burns wood
My novice opinion as a firewood and weekend warrior, is a 60cc. if you cut a lot of firewood or fell a tree or 2.... 16inch bar on a 60cc saw eats firewood, my 2260 with a 16 and 20 inch bar can cover almost all the bases an avg guy will ever need a chainsaw for. Weight wise is pretty close to a 50cc 550xp, 11.7lbs and 562xp, 13.1lbs.
regardless you'll never regret a pro saw.
regardless you'll never regret a pro saw.
EvoOneMkVIII
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks. I'm using one of the Stihl knock off sharpeners that sharpen and lower the rakers at the same time. My saw is knocking out pretty big chunks of wood particles, not fine sawdust. So from what I'm reading, that indicates a sharp chain.
Been sharpening pocket knives and the wife's kitchen knives forever, so I have a pretty good feel for sharp. Appreciate all the ideas.
I read about a guy in Los Alamos - likely another highly paid government worker, hah! - that was selling his brand new, cut only one limb, ms261, but he wanted virtually brand new $$. Wish I could find one that has sat for a year or two but no use. I also like my Husky 445, and was thinking 545 mkii or 550 ... but those are pricey as well. .... if only it was free.
Thanks for your help. Good advice.
Fireman Bill
ArboristSite Lurker
I really like my new Stihl 362 with the electronic carb. After the 9th tank of gas I could tell she was really running Good.
