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I had been running a well used 044 with an 18" bar and a 25" bar for weekend firewood cutting until I had a top end failure last year. We were in the middle of a big job and I needed a new saw fast. Weighing all of the factors, I thought going with a new 044 was overkill for the 5% of cutting that I would use it, and that an 026 made more sense. Plus I was reluctant to pony up the $650-700 for a new 044 that the dealer was asking.
But after contacting a member of this site, I purchased a like new Walkerized 026 for $500. I was pleasantly surprised that it readily handled the 25" bar in hardwood and was four pounds lighter than the 044.
I ended up purchasing a top end kit from Bailey's for the 044 and new pin bearing from Stihl, and rebuilt the 044 for about $115. While the saw runs great, I rarely use it and am thinking hard about selling it so I can pick up a power splitter.
So my vote goes for the saw mods. For what you're looking for, it might be a cost effective alternative that addresses all of your concerns. Walker's has a deal where you can trade in your stock muffler for a modified.
BTW: When I do cut bigger stuff, I will occassionally have to quarter the rounds just to be able to lift them into the truck. I can easily do this with 3/8" chain, but my cutting buddies who are using .325 end up clogging the works and have to shut down to pull the curly fries out of the sprocket guard. I don't know if that is an issue for you, but just thought you might like to know that.
 
gebada
I have a MS 360 that I use to cut standing as well as downed mesquite. It has a 20"bar on it and does an outstanding job.
You've been given some good advice on here. Good Luck and Happy Sawing.
 
I just went to Walkers site and was looking at the power curves and it appears that the 346xp responds better to the Walkerizing than does the 026. According to the power graphs, the 026 goes from a stock HP of 2.3 to 3.3 modified and the 346 from 2.4 to 3.8. Since these saws weigh about the same and you can pick up the 346 for less money, I would be inclined to go that way.
 
You talk about deciding on what saw to get by the dyno number from walker's, but if I remember right the walkerized 395 puts out a little more than .5hp more than a walkerized 066, but from what Ive heard most people prefer the 066. I think alot of it is what brand you like, price, and feel of the saw in your hands. Also im sure not all saws perform the same after modification. How many saws did walker test? I believe he only shows the results from one saw run three times. To get a good representation of the work walker does, at least 30 different saws of the same model should be dynoed. Send me the data from those 30 saws and ill provide some useful statistics on saw to saw variation. Until then I dont know how accurate or reliable the dyno runs are.

Rob
 
I certainly don’t consider them gospel, only data points as part of the overall info gathering process.
What do you saw builders think?
 
"No replacement for displacement"

I'm a weekend warrior and purchased a brand new 046M two years ago, and would do it all again in a heart beat (well maybe an 066M instead) anyway, i run an 18" bar w/ 3/8 chain and rip through any tree. Its up to you to decide how much saw you want to buy and carry and modify, but ultimately bigger saws cut faster and all the mods you want cant equal the power of a bigger piston (with the same mods).

my 1 cent (not smart enough to give 2)
 
I owned a combination of the 026 and 036 for a while. The saws are just too close in size for one to be much of an advantage. I have since sold the 026 and 036, and now I run a Solo 651 (comparable to the 026 but I just never liked the way the 026 ran) and a Husqvarna 372XP, a much better pair for firewood cutting. I'd look at an 044, 046, and especially a 372XP. Take a look at the Dolmar PS-7900 as well. Almost as light as a 372XP, and more power than an 046. 50cc to 70cc is a nice jump. If you are thinking of selling the 026 and settling for one firewood saw, either the 036, 357XP, CS62/962 would be a great fit.
 
gebada: You need to decide if you are going to carry one saw into the bush with you or two. Myself I prefer to take one saw for bucking and one saw for limbing. But then again I cut firewood to sell it and I typically cut all day everyday during those times of the year when I am fully into it.

If you want to carry 2 saws with you, then I'd go with either a 026/ms440 combo or a 026/046 combo.

If you plan on taking one saw with you into the bush when you cut, then i think the 036 is a great choice. (But a 026 is also a great light weight choice for a one saw kind of guy).

Originally posted by treeclimber165
I know guys who run a 20" bar on the 026, but it can bog a little on bigger wood. The 036 (MS360) is the next size up in Stihl's pro saws, and should spin a 20" chain easily through hardwoods.

If some here suggests a bigger saw, consider the extra weight also. I have never met anyone personally who runs shorter than a 24" bar on an 044 or 28" on an 046. I'd say go with the 036 for a 20".

Well, you just met one. On my 38 magnum I use nothing but a 20" bar. On my 066 Arctic I typically use a 24", but I've also used a 20" (on the 66) when I need to cut up a lot of foot and foot and a half trunks in a hurry. (Using a 026 for limbing).

Of coarse I attatch a larger bar when nessicary, but when I see a day of cutting ahead of me that does not reguire a long bar I wont attatch it.
 
I would be interested to see some results of some timed cuts
with an 036. One with 33RS, and the other with 26 RS, and
see the results, I think the 33RS will perform better, and not
due to the difference in gauge.
I may be wrong, but it would still be interesting.
 
Everyone here is biased, you run 3/8 lo/pro on the 009 and .325
on the 036? Why did you start the 036 on the .325? I can
understand if someone has an 026 or 029 and wants the
chains to be compatible, but I think the 036 cuts best with a
full 3/8 chain. I am just curious why anyone would try the
.325.
 

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