Chainsaw ???

[sawinredneck]

I'm really liking my Stihl MS310 (mid-range saw they call it) with 20" bar; $417 from my local stihl dealer.

KRS

I used to like beer also. Then it quit doing the job right.

 

[Austin1]

I used to like beer also. Then it quit doing the job right.

Whisky man! What the h*** Am I doing up at 3:00am on my day off? Damm off topic again!
P.S note the Canadian spelling on Whiskey lol.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

It sounds to me that you are an occasional user (saws that is), and getting a professional saw is probably not needed. Before I bought my woodburner I had a Stihl 029 with an 18" bar and it worked very well for the infrequent downed tree and limbs on my farm. The biggest tree I cut up with it was a Shagbark Hickory that was about 26" and very hard wood - the 029 worked pretty hard but did get the job done. I had the saw 12 years and probably cut about a chord a year with it....it was like new when I sold it to get a bigger saw.

Based on my experience I would certainly recommend looking at the MS290 or MS310. The website for Stihl shows the 290 with a 20" bar at $ 379.95 and the 310 with a 20" bar at $ 419.95. The 290 has 3.8 HP and the 310 has 4.0 HP and so the extra 0.2 HP will cost you $ 40 and will not add any weight but pull a 20" chain a bit better. The step up to to the MS390 at $ 579.95 will bump the power up to 4.3 HP for $ 200 over the cost of the MS290 and it will pull a 20" bar great. The only difference in the 290/310/390 is the bore size and I have always felt that Stihl is overpricing the 390 - it probably doesn't cost them more than a few bucks to install a large cylinder and yet they charge an additional $ 200.

I would suggest you get the best deal you can get on the 290 and 310. Very often the 290 is on sale (I am not sure about sales on the 310).

 

[Scootermsp]

My 372xp would make mincemeat out of that 38" oak.

:agree2:

Great saw have a 18" bar for everyday work and a 24" for the larger stuff. Has all the seeds I'd ever need yet light enough to weild all afternoon...hope that helps

 

[oneoldbanjo]

My 372xp would make mincemeat out of that 38" oak.

So how does an $ 809.95 list price saw help this fellow that wants a $ 400 saw?

 

[gixxer1237]

I also run a 310. great saw for the money. pulls a 20" well. Great mid range saw and will probley out last the occasional user. that said im saving up for 460. The 310 is way better than the 455 rancher in my book, but it cost more to.

edit. The dolmar 5100 eats! wish i would have got that!

 

[danrclem]

So how does an $ 809.95 list price saw help this fellow that wants a $ 400 saw?

If you take the time and go back and look you'll see that when I made my post that nothing was said about $400.00 or any other price.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

If you take the time and go back and look you'll see that when I made my post that nothing was said about $400.00 or any other price.

Sorry: Someone reposted your quote in posting #25 and the original fellow said in #5 that $ 400 was his limit....your original statement was #3 prior to any limit being sent.

 

[Hayubusa]

Superfire found you about the biggest saw your gonna get for $400 (at least one that looks to be in decent shape) but I'm not sure you really want to move up from a craftsman to an 80+cc saw...I'd say go with a Husky 357 which you can easily find used on ebay for $400 or if you prefer Stihl the 361 but it's doubtful you'll find as good a deal as you would with the 357. If it's not important that you have a "pro" saw and if you want to buy new then I would recommend a new Stihl 390 which can be had for a little over your limit (about $480 in NY). My brother ran one for a long time (it's still alive, he just went bigger) and it's a very reliable saw and would definately suit your needs.

 

[MJR]

I hope you have had some experience with large diameter trees and smaller bars before your craftsman’s saw. A 38” oak is a good size stick. It will challenge any mid size saw with a 20” bar. Is someone dropping the tree for you? Any of the saws mentioned will do fine once the tree is on the ground. I would be pulling the 385 of the CSM if it was me dropping the tree. Good luck and be careful.

 

[danrclem]

Sorry: Someone reposted your quote in posting #25 and the original fellow said in #5 that $ 400 was his limit....your original statement was #3 prior to any limit being sent.

No problem.

 

[Ske-bum]

A nice Husky455 Rancher would do you just fine!

I beg to differ, my 455 would run away wimpering from a oak that big.

I would get my buddy with his 440 to come over, or save the tree until my 372 arrives.

 

[sawinredneck]

I hope you have had some experience with large diameter trees and smaller bars before your craftsman’s saw. A 38” oak is a good size stick. It will challenge any mid size saw with a 20” bar. Is someone dropping the tree for you? Any of the saws mentioned will do fine once the tree is on the ground. I would be pulling the 385 of the CSM if it was me dropping the tree. Good luck and be careful.

I've ben wondering and asking about this as well!!!!
A 38" Oak is another world from dropping with the 16-18" Crapsman!!
But hey, everybody is more concerned about a saw than him killing himself, so what do I know?:monkey:

 

[coog]

I think back to 30+ years ago; I had a 041 Farm Boss with a 16" bar...I didn't know they made longer ones!Dropped thousands of Elms and Oaks that were 38" or better (sometimes WAY bigger)Takes longer, and you have to be limber, but it will work.I wouldn't want to have to do it again, and I like bringing out the long iron.

 

[willsaw4beer]

Honestly I would be pretty nervous dropping a 3 ft wide tree with either of my saws (not that it wouldn't be possible but cutting down a tree that big would not be something that I would look forward to doing with a 20'' bar) and unless you buy used you couldn't get anything close to a 268 or 630 for $400. I would recommend getting a quote to have someone drop it for you and spend the rest on a good used saw. Maybe you have good health insurance, but if not paying more money upfront could save you a lot of money and hardship...

 

[gink595]

I've ben wondering and asking about this as well!!!!
A 38" Oak is another world from dropping with the 16-18" Crapsman!!
But hey, everybody is more concerned about a saw than him killing himself, so what do I know?:monkey:

Back Alongggggg time agooooo, they used to use axes and cross cut saws, I'm sure the crapsman as you call it would work, it just might not have any swagger to it

 

[Darl Bundren]

The tree he's talking about has fallen.

 

[sawinredneck]

Back Alongggggg time agooooo, they used to use axes and cross cut saws, I'm sure the crapsman as you call it would work, it just might not have any swagger to it

The tree he's talking about has fallen.

This is what I was after!!!
As I said earlier, I hate to be a doubting Thomas, but that was a pretty big step.

 

[gixxer1237]

I wouldnt be scared to tackle a down 36" oak with my ms310. get a good saw, but you dont sound like you need a ms361, ms880, or a 395xp. get safety gear and a bunch of chains.

 

[sawinredneck]

Just to clear things up, i wasnt recommending a ms310 to drop a 36" oak. I read that the tree was already down.

Just a highjack here, but I see a lot of people recommending a $600 saw to rookie and every-so-often cutter. Thats like recommending a 50 cal sniper rifle to a once a year deer hunter. Not saying it doesnt do the job, but why?

You post a good question. I will try and give some reasonable answers.

1) Have you ever cut up a 36" Oak with an 18" bar? I haven't. I have cut one up with an MS390 and a 25" bar. Even that was laborous and tedious at best! I spent a LOT of time per round, then had to quarter them to get them to the splitter. Yes, it is doable but you will sure feel it in the am!!! My 046 and a 32" bar, I can cut them from one side, much easier!!

2)An Oak tree that size will have some branches that will be sticking up, and not in that good of a spot sometimes! The extra bar length can keep you more out of harms way, and certainly keep you having to make questionable cuts on one side and trying to finish it on the other. All while trying to keep it off you're head, legs, feet, arms etc.

3)Just because it's on the ground and you are "just bucking it up" doesn't mean it's going to be easy! There is a LOT of weight there and I doubt that it's all lying flat on the ground. We now reffer to the latter part of 2)

4) I personaly would rather work with an inexperianced person, wiling to learn with the right tool for the job. Rather than work with an inexperianced person trying to get by.

Just because they are on the ground doesn't make them "safe" by any means!! I'd much rather cut up 10-20" poles all day versus taking one 36" tree. I did a few 24-28" Oaks with an 18" bar. I did ONE 36" Oak with a 25" bar, I promptly bought the 046!!!! It's hard to explain until you cut a couple up. They are a beast all their own!!!