Change in Carlton Chain

[redoakneck]

I've never really thought about it till now but has anyone seen a stihl RS filed back to the witness mark and still cut?

That is good question

I don't quite understand what you mean by that;

Those needs to be reduced from the front and back, and I'm sure it will take a lot more than 8-10 strokes with a file on each.

If they need to be taken down, that hardly takes 8-10 strokes.

I can take .050 off with 10 strokes, it would be a good start. Agreed, those rakers look huge in the pics, in real life might not be the case.

 

[SawTroll]

I really like the small rakers and small ramps of the LP/LPX - those chains are both fast and smooth in the cut!

They also are easy to sharpen, and get really sharp.

 

[SawTroll]

It's a pity that I can't like my own posts here!

 

[Philbert]

Got them for you Niko!

Philbert

 

[SawTroll]

Got them for you Niko!

Philbert

Hardly a surprice who hit that post with a like initially!

 

[Gypo Logger]

Pissin match! Go get em Sawtroll, you young punk! Lol
What were we all talkin about? Don't tell me it was about chain!

 

[SawTroll]

Pissin match! Go get em Sawtroll, you young punk! Lol
What were we all talkin about? Don't tell me it was about chain!

To some it may be a real discussion, but to others it is just what you suggested - a pissing match.

I posted like it was a real discussion - maybe I shouldn't have?

I will always "get them", if I find that warranted - no worries about that!

 

[Gypo Logger]

To some it may be a real discussion, but to others it is just what you suggested - a pissing match.

I posted like it was a real discussion - maybe I shouldn't have?

No Troll, stay out of all chain, pitch and bar length discussions and they'll all love ya, if they don't already.

 

[SawTroll]

No Troll, stay out of all chain, pitch and bar length discussions and they'll all love ya, if they don't already.

Surely, but that won't happen - I don't care who "loves" or "hate" me on here - it is what it is.....

 

[MustangMike]

7/32 is larger than 13/64. I like to use 7/32 on Stihl chain, even though they recommend 13/64. Moot point though, I use square file now.

Stihl chain may not get as sharp as other brands (so not as good for racing), but in hardwood, it will hold it's edge longer, so it is what I use.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Surely, but that won't happen - I don't care who "loves" or "hate" me on here - it is what it is.....

Is this a call for help Nick?
How far is it from the Yukon to Norway?

 

[MCW]

Imho, the Stihl 3/8" chain is getting too little hook with a 7/32" file, even though it isn't a big deal.

It's actually similar hook, just larger. It's only less hook if you don't have your file low enough.

 

[MCW]

my stihl oils fine so does my echo products yeah i had husky that oiled the floor better than the bars. all brands of saws have lemons.

My comment was related to newer Stihl saws oiling less than older models. Without a doubt the newer style drivelinks are designed to compensate for this as the old Stihl chain didn't have an issue oiling under some of the toughest conditions you'll come across. Carlton, Oregon, Windsor etc have never had oiling issues either.

 

[Little Al]

I have seen signs that they have changed to the Oregon style oil holes ("Lubri Link"?) design lately - but I need more evidense before I can say for sure.....

The last few Lo Pro Stihl chains I've used, have had a no groove, a round hole & a number of small pimple's in the drive links but the latest one just had a round hole

 

[Little Al]

I've never really thought about it till now but has anyone seen a stihl RS filed back to the witness mark and still cut?

Yep & it blew away a half used chain in cutting speed,this was cutting pine

 

[SawTroll]

It's actually similar hook, just larger. It's only less hook if you don't have your file low enough.

Of course - but the larger diameter does make a differense.

 

[redoakneck]

Niko, I have learned a bunch from your posts and will continue to keep my ears open!!! The chains you prefer are spot on!!!

As far as 7/32 filing 3/8 chain, if you knock the rakers down first, then use a stihl file guide w 7/32, you can get a little more hook. I use 13/64 and save the 7/32 for .404.

I have used the 7/32 first 3-4 strokes, then use a 13/64 on a stihl guide with a smooth cut pferd file, gives a nicer hook and bigger gullet.

As far as the holes, dimples, and damms-- I don't think I notice a big difference, they all get clogged up after a while and need cleaned

I got some of those carbide burrs from baileys on sale 2 bucks each, I use them to grind out the gullets, does a nice quick job and saves the files for the cutting edges.

Still trying to learn how to square file, but for day in, day out cutting the round is faster and easier for me. I always use a chainsaw chain vise so I have no wiggle while sharpening.

 

[MrGiggles]

The photo angle probably isn't helping things, and it's also from the wrong side for a good comparison. I did also notice that when the saw got mid-way through a big log (using all of the bar) it was very grabby and rough cutting. The Semi isn't nearly as bad about that.

It might be a bit crude, but I have to drive 30 miles and spend 20+ dollars a loop for Stihl chain, or Oregon for 22 dollars.. This is 8 miles away and only costs 15.00 per 18" loop.

 

[Deleted member 83629]

i usually buy carlton anymore the local saw shop can make me a loop for around 12$ and that is 12''-20''
the stihl dealer about 35 miles away charges 25$ for a 16''-20''.

 

[MrGiggles]

i usually buy carlton anymore the local saw shop can make me a loop for around 12$ and that is 12''-20''
the stihl dealer about 35 miles away charges 25$ for a 16''-20''.

This dealer charges 12 bucks for a 16" loop and it goes up incrementally from there. The 25" 3/8 loop costs 18.00 plus tax if I remember right.