That one looks almost identical to the clone I bought except that it's painted yellow. Good price for what you receive.
Cheap chain saw sharpener
- Thread starter alleyyooper
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
tylorklein
ArboristSite Lurker
I have the northern sharpener and getting a cbn wheel to replace the pink one it came with was a great (though not cheap) improvement
I have been going over some of the old threads and think I will tinker with mine some more. Its certainly an improvement over the old fixed angle chicago one I used to use. I want to experiment some more on the chain rails, the chain just doesnt advance as easy as I thing it should. might just hit the top with a sharpening stone to see if it will smooth it out some. Thought about just trying to make new ones out of thicker material, but not sure how I can keep the chain centered under the grinding wheel if I do.
That's a good idea to 'calibrate' your grinder (assuming that the OEM chain is spot on!). I encourage people that are new to grinding to start with some 'scrap' chain and 'play' with it. Make some of the adjustments allowed on that particular grinder and see how it affects the cutter shape, length, etc. Intentionally 'burn' (overheat) a cutter, then see how much you can grind without overheating others. Try changing angles and getting other shapes. Try to match a filed chain profile, etc., etc., etc.
The grinder (like files, etc.) is just a tool. If you know what you want your finished cutters to look like, you can use it to get there. If you don't know, then you are just removing metal.
Good question.
Saw chain file sizes are typically 5/32", 3/16 (6/32"), and 7/32". Of course, there are also in-between sizes (11/64"(4.5mm) and 13/64") sometimes specified.
Grinding wheels are typically 1/8" or 3/16", so there are fewer choices, and less specific radiuses ground.
Some variation can still be achieved by changing the head tilt angle on the grinder, or the depth of grind, just as there can be by the height of the file. If the cutting performance difference is noticeable and significant to you, then you may need to file your chains, or 'rough in' the angles with a smaller sized grinding wheel, and finish off the final profile with the specific file.
Philbert
Could be that the (1) the vise rails are too far apart or (2) the rails are not the same height, so the chain is leaning left or right before the grinding wheel contacts it.
Check to see if the vise rails are between 0.085" and 0.093" apart. If not, machine the spacers between them accordingly. It would appear that the spacers holding your rails apart at each end are too thick. Also, be sure that the rails are as straight as possible. It sounds like yours may be bent, and that's causing them to not advance the chain properly. Check both rails and make sure both are straight, not curved.
Finally, be sure that the rails are the same height and flat on top when fastened tight. Otherwise, the chain will lean left or right as it is being sharpened, and any sharpening will produce a chain that pulls left or right during the cut. As you tighten the screws that hold the rails in place, be sure that the top of each rail is aligned dead flat. I use a tri-square to check that as I assemble.
I did have problems with the spacers between the rails being to long. What i did was take two washers and drill the hole out so that the spacers would fit inside the washers. The washers are on the outside of the rail next to the bolt head. That little bit of washer thickness will allow the rails to almost completely close up with out a chain in the rails. I dont have problems now with the chain moving around while grinding. On rail is bent on the lead end, I straighten it out just prying on it,and thought it was good enough. Went and sharpen a few chains this evening and took a second look at the bent end and noticed when i pull the chain across the rail, it tends to lift out of the rail right at the bend area. will probably take rails off completely and see if I can hammer it straight on an anvil.
I did decide to try a different angle I normally never use. This chain vise has the 10* tilt feature, but I had never tried it and always just left it flat. Of course, the first tooth I ground I had the tilt angle the wrong direction, but changed that pretty easily. I had a couple of chains for my 24in bar that I very seldom use so I wasnt really concerned with how this was going to work, but I wanted to know. After sharpening one chain at 30*55*10*, I put the 24in bar and chain on my Husky 365 and headed to the wood pile. I had some varying sizes of whiteoak I had just harvested this week. I stuck the saw in a smaller log, maybe 8in and it fell thru it it cut so fast. I stepped up to a 18in dia log and couldnt believe the cut speed. I normally keep a 20in bar on that saw and it really cuts good, but nothing like it was cutting with the 24in BC with the added 10degree angle. I was so impressed, I took a old, almost worn out .325 chain and gave it the same shapeing treatment. I put it and a 18in bar in place of the 20in with 3/8 chain on my husky 55 saw. Stuck the saw in a 12in white oak and I didnt even have to put down pressure on the saw, I could feel it pulling itself thru the wood and it wasnt pulling out chips, it was pulling out strings. I have never had a new chain or a chain I had sharpen on this grinder, or the old chicago grinder, cut like these two chains cut today. I run oregon full comp, full chisel chains on all my saws, I dont know how well the extra 10* angle is going to hold up between sharpenings, but I plan on giving it a good shot at it as i have about 5 cords of white oak that needs bucked.
I did decide to try a different angle I normally never use. This chain vise has the 10* tilt feature, but I had never tried it and always just left it flat. Of course, the first tooth I ground I had the tilt angle the wrong direction, but changed that pretty easily. I had a couple of chains for my 24in bar that I very seldom use so I wasnt really concerned with how this was going to work, but I wanted to know. After sharpening one chain at 30*55*10*, I put the 24in bar and chain on my Husky 365 and headed to the wood pile. I had some varying sizes of whiteoak I had just harvested this week. I stuck the saw in a smaller log, maybe 8in and it fell thru it it cut so fast. I stepped up to a 18in dia log and couldnt believe the cut speed. I normally keep a 20in bar on that saw and it really cuts good, but nothing like it was cutting with the 24in BC with the added 10degree angle. I was so impressed, I took a old, almost worn out .325 chain and gave it the same shapeing treatment. I put it and a 18in bar in place of the 20in with 3/8 chain on my husky 55 saw. Stuck the saw in a 12in white oak and I didnt even have to put down pressure on the saw, I could feel it pulling itself thru the wood and it wasnt pulling out chips, it was pulling out strings. I have never had a new chain or a chain I had sharpen on this grinder, or the old chicago grinder, cut like these two chains cut today. I run oregon full comp, full chisel chains on all my saws, I dont know how well the extra 10* angle is going to hold up between sharpenings, but I plan on giving it a good shot at it as i have about 5 cords of white oak that needs bucked.
zogger
Tree Freak
That 10 degree uptilt is usually how most folks hand sharpen (guessing). In my experience it works well, unless the wood is dirty, then the little point goes bad fast.
When sharpening with a file, I always use a little up angle, habit I picked up a hundred years ago. I cant see worth a crap now and wear bifocals which is the reason I went to a electric grinder. I also recently found I really like those Husquvarnia two in one sharpeners for hand fileing. It gets the tooth and the rakers in one stroke. I plan on buying one as soon as I can find one in the store.
That's all good news Muddstopper. Nice to start 2016 with some good news. Thank you for encouraging me to check my sharpening unit also. My vise rails were bent and one was about 1/32" higher than the other. That's about all it takes to set up a chain that cuts faster on one side than the other.
One other thing: I recall removing the heavy compression spring under the big vise knob that seemed to put too much tension on the mechanism and made it tough to tighten the pivot in place when setting the top plate sharpening angle. You will see it when you remove that knob. I replaced it with a large washer or two and it seems to work better without it. I've saved this coil spring in a sack of parts.
I've also noticed that the cam on the swivel handle doesn't stay put sometimes when you lock the chain in the vise. I'm working on a fix for that also. Otherwise you have to hold it with your left hand and pull the wheel down with your right.
One other thing: I recall removing the heavy compression spring under the big vise knob that seemed to put too much tension on the mechanism and made it tough to tighten the pivot in place when setting the top plate sharpening angle. You will see it when you remove that knob. I replaced it with a large washer or two and it seems to work better without it. I've saved this coil spring in a sack of parts.
I've also noticed that the cam on the swivel handle doesn't stay put sometimes when you lock the chain in the vise. I'm working on a fix for that also. Otherwise you have to hold it with your left hand and pull the wheel down with your right.
The old 'rule of thimb' I was taught, was that the 10° down angle was for full chisel chains only. In recent years, Oregon has recommended it on most, but not all of their chains. Would be interesting to know why not on those other chains.
One thing that they mention is that some file guides, like their basic, classic, flat style guide, is only meant to be used at at 0° (no down angle) to work properly.
Philbert
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/FilingAngles.pdf
alleyyooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes a person can spend a bunch of money for electric chain sharpeners and throw away some very good chains they hit a rock or some steel with cause they can't get it right again with a file.
But for a $36.00 spenditure you can save those rock destroyed chains and true up the file sharpened chains you lost count of the strokes with while sharpening.
Sears has the same sharpener for $104.00.
http://www.sears.com/usatoolsnmore-...SPM13298478919?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6
If I had $500.00 to PIZZ away I would get the Oregon with hydrlic assist as I am such a dam whimp I can't pull down a moter with a grinding wheel on it.
http://www.chainsawsdirect.com/Oregon-551462/p62287.html
Al
But for a $36.00 spenditure you can save those rock destroyed chains and true up the file sharpened chains you lost count of the strokes with while sharpening.
Sears has the same sharpener for $104.00.
http://www.sears.com/usatoolsnmore-...SPM13298478919?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6
If I had $500.00 to PIZZ away I would get the Oregon with hydrlic assist as I am such a dam whimp I can't pull down a moter with a grinding wheel on it.
http://www.chainsawsdirect.com/Oregon-551462/p62287.html
AlWas at a large farm store today. Guy in the chainsaw aisle was looking all over the chains, so I asked if he needed help. Said 'No', he knew what he was looking for, but eventually tried to explain that he was looking for chain that was not low-kickback. He wanted something more 'aggressive', like he got at his STIHL dealer, but was having trouble putting that into words.
So I mentioned that these types of stores mostly sell low-kickback chain, in consumer packaging, but that it would cut OK if the depth gauges and low kick back bumpers were maintained. He got really interested when I showed him the depth gauge measuring tool; when I mentioned that each tooth has 2 cutting edges; and told him that his clone grinder would work better if he dressed the wheel every loop or so to expose fresh grit. 'Really? Every loop?" Could have made a sales commission, but at least did my good deed for the day.
Philbert
So I mentioned that these types of stores mostly sell low-kickback chain, in consumer packaging, but that it would cut OK if the depth gauges and low kick back bumpers were maintained. He got really interested when I showed him the depth gauge measuring tool; when I mentioned that each tooth has 2 cutting edges; and told him that his clone grinder would work better if he dressed the wheel every loop or so to expose fresh grit. 'Really? Every loop?" Could have made a sales commission, but at least did my good deed for the day.
Philbert
Grinder wheel dressing may be more important than dressing the bar. I do that with about every chain that I sharpen. Then I also have to remind myself to drop down the height gauge a tad that controls the drop of the wheel.
I picked up the HF sharpener a while back, haven't used yet. Wondering what dresser you guys use and how it is done? This is new to me, have read a lot about it. Do you just keep removing material on the wheel to match the cutter gullet? Or is there a gauge to use? I always use a file to sharpen, but picked up a saw that had chains with it that needed a lot more work than a file could fix.
The Oregon grinders come with a small, silicon carbide brick to dress the wheel. You can buy an OEM replacement ($$) or get a much larger one from hardware stores/home centers for less $ - break it down if it is too large (put it in a vise; put on safety glasses; hit it with a hammer).
Generally, the wheel is dressed to a half-round profile. You can eyeball this or use the gauge that comes with some grinders, or again, purchased as a replacement.
Dressing is done for 2 reasons:
1) To profile the wheel, to obtain the cutter edge shape that you want. This is not the shape of the gullet. You generally want a half round profile. The Harbor Freight grinder only comes with a 1/8" thick, fine grain wheel, so dressing for shape is pretty minimal.
2) To expose fresh abrasive/grit. ***This is the one that people often don't realize.*** The abrasive grit 'cuts' the metal because it has sharp edges. As it wears, the edges become rounded, and the grit rubs against the metal instead of cutting it. It is like using dull sandpaper - the 'sand' is still stuck to the paper, but it does not abrade the wood any more.
Just take the dressing brick and lightly rub it across the profiled edge to clean the wheel and expose fresh abrasive. I do this about once a chain (larger chains), or any time that the grinding/sharpening appears to slow down, if a cutter over heats, etc. You will find what works for you.
Philbert
And, be prepared to dust off the sharpener after you dress the wheel. The dust from the wheel flies all over the place as you dress it. Properly dressed, you will also notice that the wheel generates less heat and tends not to "blue" the sharp edge of the cutter. So, the chain will last longer before the cutters need to be sharpened again.
One time a sawyer asked me, "Edwin, I always have to file my chains after I grind sharpen them. The grinder always leaves a blue edge on the cutter. What am I doing wrong?"
I replied, "Do do ever dress the wheel with a stone?"
He said, "The wheel needs to be dressed?"
I said, "Yes. What color is the outer edge of the wheel?
He said, "Jet black. It's been that way for months."
One time a sawyer asked me, "Edwin, I always have to file my chains after I grind sharpen them. The grinder always leaves a blue edge on the cutter. What am I doing wrong?"
I replied, "Do do ever dress the wheel with a stone?"
He said, "The wheel needs to be dressed?"
I said, "Yes. What color is the outer edge of the wheel?
He said, "Jet black. It's been that way for months."
Similar threads
