Throw a timing light on that thing.Please check the ignition switch, coil leads, distributor leads,does it have a ballast resistor?
Yes, spark has to be at right time too.....
Throw a timing light on that thing.Please check the ignition switch, coil leads, distributor leads,does it have a ballast resistor?
" Just running along then died, won't restart" sounds like a sudden failure of something to me.Did it die while running or just one day wouldn't start?
yeah and? one cylinder being goofy isn't unheard of, and 100psi on an industrial engine isn't the end of the world, seen em run at 60psi, it could be a clue to something else, but its not exactly a high performance engine is it? its a ford industrial built to survive nuclear holocaust, locusts, and rivers running red.This is from his OP
"Compression: I tested each cylinder and got the below PSI values
120, 100, 125, 120, 125, 125 all these are good enough to support combustion, right ?"
Never had the ford I-6 apart but most older auto distributor and oil pumps run off the camshaft.So many good comments and suggestions, thank you everyone! The saga continues.
Today I’ll remove the valve cover and verify the cam is moving. If cam wasn’t moving, would the distributor be turning? (It is) or would I read 120psi compression in ALL cylinders? (I do)
Spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold should bypass any fuel pump or carburetor issues and at least produce a cough or pop or wisp of white smoke , I get none of these.
Will also try the timing light check, if I can find my timing light.
—-Possible Scenario To Explain This—-
If the fuel is contaminated with water then the plugs all become so wet with bad gas that they don’t spark and the water contaminated gas doesn’t burn . But when removed from cylinder, all plugs produce spark. Also , if plugs are wet with bad fuel, even the starting fluid won’t ignite.
Although the gas from top of tank looks clear , I’d better drain the entire tank and start with fresh fuel .
For any more details I would have to rely on my Mechanic brother (I often do) Good luck.After you have tried to start the motor and sprayed "STUFF" in the intake, you nave p'bly washed all the oil off of the rings, That might explain low compression and the #3 &4 cylinders are centered under the carb so they will be wet when 1-2-5-6 are dry(er). I would be marking the crank pulley/Timing mark, , check position of the the rocker arms for top dead center then rotor position of distributor to verify timing is where it should be. Timing gears are still sold because they wear and do jump timing. Normal to jump time and backfire when you are trying to start it but not unusual to jump more than 1 tooth and get spark just not at the right time/timing. A good Mechanic that is old enough to remember these could be a real help.
EDIT: I missed post #31 OOPS Are the rocker arms loose on 1 & 6 as well? To verify the cam is in time also.
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