Chipper's Ford 300 inline 6, sudden no-start

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Just heard from the mechanic: “…the carburetor was totally seized up and there was no fuel passing…. these are not made anymore….I can get one they my connections… carb is $850 and $150 to install it…”

I said yes because time is money.
Carburetor 850.00$ !?
That is Bullsh¡t!!! If your running a holley it's only about 300.00 for a new one barrel or 2bbl ?
What magical goose squirted your carburetor out? You got a model number and make ? , I might have one I could sell you for 1/3 your cost.
 
Or a really cool Weber....Keep that spare ignition box.Ask for the old carb back, don't let him tell you its junk.
Carburetor 850.00$ !?
That is Bullsh¡t!!! If your running a holley it's only about 300.00 for a new one barrel or 2bbl ?
What magical goose squirted your carburetor out? You got a model number and make ? , I might have one I could sell you for 1/3 your cost.
Never saw a carb described as "seized up" before, and what was that stuff described as "splashing" out of number three cylinder if completely blocked up? Not sure this lines up with "suddenly stopped running"
 
The back story here is that I’m helping a young friend (who learned to climb/rig/cut trees by working for a tree outfit) to get established on his own in the tree trimming business. I have mechanical skills but limited time and he has lots more time but basic mechanical/engine repair skills. So although I’d do the carb rebuild if it was my chipper, I can give so many volunteer hours to the project, after that its advice only.

I think the writing on the wall is that if you’re in a business that’s depending on machines, you have to know how to fix them or aggressively create enough cash flow then pay others to fix them.
 
The back story here is that I’m helping a young friend (who learned to climb/rig/cut trees by working for a tree outfit) to get established on his own in the tree trimming business. I have mechanical skills but limited time and he has lots more time but basic mechanical/engine repair skills. So although I’d do the carb rebuild if it was my chipper, I can give so many volunteer hours to the project, after that its advice only.

I think the writing on the wall is that if you’re in a business that’s depending on machines, you have to know how to fix them or aggressively create enough cash flow then pay others to fix them.

What sort of carb is this $850 wonder?

Is it "special", hitched to a governor like the carbs on tractors? Or just a carb that regulates by throttle opening position?

If the later, get a pre-smog carb for an early Ford 300 I-6. One vacuum port for advance, no EPA tentacles hanging off vacuum or electric.
 
The parts book lists two carburetors, I assume it’s the 2nd one , the Holly 1940:
-Carburetor Assembly - Holley 1904 - Not Serviced ....
-Carburetor Assembly - Holley 1940

3917D18A-E82F-4791-AE9C-1A6B1EED4616.jpeg5094813F-0156-4214-92A5-79893A7E6F36.jpeg22BAB8D3-BE3F-4DF0-B8BF-8E85A8B0B584.jpeg529C405D-E806-4197-87E5-AB79A6A71A3D.jpeg
 
Doesn't matter is it's a govenor model or not, that was driven off the accessory drive and a link goes to the carb. I too, do not understand the bill your mechanic wants to toss at you. The carbs are easy to work on and last I messed with them you could still find reman options pretty easy for sub $200.00. Rebuild kits are also pretty cheap, only need to figure out if its a weaber or holley designed carb. Most kits will cover the various versions of either or style of carb. There are also (were at one point, at least) adapters to go to a 2 barrel carb as well. May be an option if you can't get another factory style carb.
 
Okay, lots of progress but just want to say thanks for all the feedback.

We cancelled the repair (no charge thankfully) and brought the chipper home. Took off the shroud and got full access to carb. Choke was stuck closed, so got it freed up but then it would start and immediately die. That turned out to be caused by a weak battery that wouldn’t keep the Murphy switch open so after starting, it immediately died. We then charged the battery for a few hours and it started and stayed running.

Need to give the carb a good cleaning so the choke & throttle butterfly’s don’t get hung up.

We learned our lesson: check everything including the carb even if it’s a pita to access. I assumed any engine would fire with starter fluid spraying in intake, well not if choke is fully closed.

The carb is marked:
“Motorcraft D7JL-9310 , 7397 2796”
BF689A33-FF55-4D56-AF1E-8DB75ECFDE54.jpegD7CB6390-6C61-484B-A6D2-3862009F32E9.jpeg
View attachment FullSizeRender.MOV
 
I would check the charging system
Alternator
Alternator output
Voltage regulator

Temporary swap battery with a known good one while you put current battery on a slow charge and then load test it
 
The alternator is brand new so it should be perfect but that’s a good suggestion to check charging components. I put a battery disconnect switch on it to ensure there isn’t any drainage going on.

The electric wiring on this thing is a bit of a rat’s nest with many splices and taped joints any one of which is a point of failure. The wiring should really be cleaned up .
 
Best advice is get a one wire Delco alternator and eliminate the stupid external voltage regulator and extra wiring. I'm a big fan of ford's, but that was one of their downfalls. The old alternators and associated wiring was tragic at best when new, and pathetic after time got on it.
 
Okay, lots of progress but just want to say thanks for all the feedback.

We cancelled the repair (no charge thankfully) and brought the chipper home. Took off the shroud and got full access to carb. Choke was stuck closed, so got it freed up but then it would start and immediately die. That turned out to be caused by a weak battery that wouldn’t keep the Murphy switch open so after starting, it immediately died. We then charged the battery for a few hours and it started and stayed running.

Need to give the carb a good cleaning so the choke & throttle butterfly’s don’t get hung up.

We learned our lesson: check everything including the carb even if it’s a pita to access. I assumed any engine would fire with starter fluid spraying in intake, well not if choke is fully closed.

The carb is marked:
“Motorcraft D7JL-9310 , 7397 2796”
View attachment 1018651View attachment 1018652
View attachment 1018655

Get an OEM carb kit and dunk the carb in a carb cleaner bucket. It will come out looking like new and you will have ~$25 into the repair.
The alternator is brand new so it should be perfect but that’s a good suggestion to check charging components. I put a battery disconnect switch on it to ensure there isn’t any drainage going on.

The electric wiring on this thing is a bit of a rat’s nest with many splices and taped joints any one of which is a point of failure. The wiring should really be cleaned up .
Best advice is get a one wire Delco alternator and eliminate the stupid external voltage regulator and extra wiring. I'm a big fan of ford's, but that was one of their downfalls. The old alternators and associated wiring was tragic at best when new, and pathetic after time got on it.

1-wire GM alternator is the way to go.
 
The Murphy system may control a fuel shut off solenoid valve.

I had one of those valves fail and of course the engine would not run. My Murphy system was fine though.

Just tossing this out there as added information.
 

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