Choosing a used chain saw

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Project man

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Hello, I'm in the market for a larger saw. Currently I have a rancher 450 which is good but I am looking for a stronger larger model for falling some oak and maple trees 18-24" in diameter. I want to take a look at 2 saws in my vicinity. There is a MS 361 and a MS 391 both available for @ the same cost. Obviously, the condition of the saw will be a big factor in this purchase. Is there any comments whether one is better than the other or if one is easier to use or is easier to service than the other? When I go to check out the saws, I wanted to bring a compression gauge to make sure the compression is good and was wondering what a good compression reading would be on saws of these displacements......thanks again for any comments and ideas!!
 
I would not bother with the 391 and concentrate on the 361- much better made saw.
If it falls down the rope, leave it, if it slow chugs- take it.
Better to take a T27 wrench and look at the piston through the exhaust port than rely on compression testing.
 
Hello, I'm in the market for a larger saw. Currently I have a rancher 450 which is good but I am looking for a stronger larger model for falling some oak and maple trees 18-24" in diameter. I want to take a look at 2 saws in my vicinity. There is a MS 361 and a MS 391 both available for @ the same cost. Obviously, the condition of the saw will be a big factor in this purchase. Is there any comments whether one is better than the other or if one is easier to use or is easier to service than the other? When I go to check out the saws, I wanted to bring a compression gauge to make sure the compression is good and was wondering what a good compression reading would be on saws of these displacements......thanks again for any comments and ideas!!
361 definitely. However you really need to know how to check over a used saw for other issues like a worn out bar, proper oiling. Also need to make sure that it is all original and not a flippin' saw with lots of Chinese parts including piston, cylinder, carb, air filter, etc.

Definitely pull the muffler to show the condition of the piston and cylinder. Look for blow-by on the rings and lots of carbon deposits from cheap oil / bad fuel. with a small flashlight you might be able to see the intake side of the cylinder when the piston is down.

You also want to pull the clutch drum so that you can inspect the crankshaft stub for scoring and the bearing for wear/integrity. If the crank stub is galled the saw is junk. You can get suspicious if the clutch drum has a bit of "wobble" in it.

Genuine Stihl parts should have the Stihl logo on them somewhere and or Stihl "xxxx-xxx-xxxx" part number on them.
 
Hello, I'm in the market for a larger saw. Currently I have a rancher 450 which is good but I am looking for a stronger larger model for falling some oak and maple trees 18-24" in diameter. I want to take a look at 2 saws in my vicinity. There is a MS 361 and a MS 391 both available for @ the same cost. Obviously, the condition of the saw will be a big factor in this purchase. Is there any comments whether one is better than the other or if one is easier to use or is easier to service than the other? When I go to check out the saws, I wanted to bring a compression gauge to make sure the compression is good and was wondering what a good compression reading would be on saws of these displacements......thanks again for any comments and ideas!!

The Stihl 036 is a good saw, too.

I see them come up for sale every now and then at low prices.

I picked up a 362C in good shape for $300 last year. I like it.
 
Wow!! thanks so much for the feedback.....so the 391 is out and careful 361 inspection is in order, not to mention the other suggestions stated here. I'm kind of a brand loyal person and never owned s stihl saw but they seem to be used by many professionals and the parts are available if and whenever I have to tear a saw down in the off season. After looking at the piston for scratches, what would be a good compression # for the 361?
 
Wow!! thanks so much for the feedback.....so the 391 is out and careful 361 inspection is in order, not to mention the other suggestions stated here. I'm kind of a brand loyal person and never owned s stihl saw but they seem to be used by many professionals and the parts are available if and whenever I have to tear a saw down in the off season. After looking at the piston for scratches, what would be a good compression # for the 361?
At a guess- 150-180 psi should be expected.
But is going to depend on if you have a correct small engine tester.
I have a tester and a recently fixed up 362 I can measure and get back to you- but a compression tester is a tool I never take to pre buy inspections and seldom ever use in the workshop.

I mean lets say you rock up, whip out the plug, hook up your tester, pull the rope till the needle stops climbing and you come back with 90psi?
So is it simple carbon trapped rings? Worn rings that just need a new set to replace? Or is the top end torn up and needs total replacement?
Muffler off is going to tell you a whole lot more and a simple weight of the saw while being held by only the starter handle for a pre buy inspection.

At the end of the day, you are buying secondhand- so you only hand over the cash you are willing to gamble.
 
Right, who doesn’t love a heavy and underpowered 59cc saw? 361 ftw!
Keep drinking that Koolaid! And, the 361/362 is being replaced by the 400 gen2, because the former weren't that great.

There are plenty of YT vids showing the 620p performing as-well or better than the 361/362 side by side on timers, and we smart people take the extra pound of the 620p because weight/mass often equals vibration reduction, and better durability.
 
I have a couple Husky 350's with flat top pistons and no base gaskets (slightly open mufflers too). These see perhaps 85% of the use in my hands with 16" bars on smaller wood. I also have a 372xp oe and 385xp. I suppose I might recommend a 372xp OE if there was one available locally for you. The power of a larger saw is so very important in oak trees for me. I don't have any aversion to STIHL and there is a 066 somewhat close to you on facebook marketplace, but my choice would easily be this saw if I lived where you live:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:cf0f17dd-1d1e-4f7d-8229-a8a11d0986d1

394xp on Facebook

I may be inferring too much, but it appears someone thought enough of that 39xp4 powerhead to spend real $$ on a very nice bar before putting the saw in storage. My hunch is there might be some carburetor grunge from being in storage, but if it runs good and oils good and checks out mechanically, yup, winner !

I think the price for this 394xp is darn low.

my 2c,
 
I have a couple Husky 350's with flat top pistons and no base gaskets (slightly open mufflers too). These see perhaps 85% of the use in my hands with 16" bars on smaller wood. I also have a 372xp oe and 385xp. I suppose I might recommend a 372xp OE if there was one available locally for you. The power of a larger saw is so very important in oak trees for me. I don't have any aversion to STIHL and there is a 066 somewhat close to you on facebook marketplace, but my choice would easily be this saw if I lived where you live:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/488046743614398/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:cf0f17dd-1d1e-4f7d-8229-a8a11d0986d1

394xp on Facebook

I may be inferring too much, but it appears someone thought enough of that 39xp4 powerhead to spend real $$ on a very nice bar before putting the saw in storage. My hunch is there might be some carburetor grunge from being in storage, but if it runs good and oils good and checks out mechanically, yup, winner !

I think the price for this 394xp is darn low.

my 2c,
394xp is overkill for what he's doing.
 
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