Spiffy!!! Me want 1 2!!!
Used to have a similar sized (a bit larger) years ago. I am not an expert, just used one a lot. All I remember from using it is your set-how wide the cutters are, is different for softwoods and hardwoods. I was mostly cutting wicked mean and nasty hardwood with mine, downed huge dutch elm mostly, although a little of everything, so it was narrow set. The softer and stickier the wood, the wider the set has to be, or the kerf closes up on you and it just sucks, because you are only around 1/3rd horsepower. Have wedges handy anyway, they come in handy. After that it is similar to a chain, cutters the same height and angle, etc, need some clearance for the depth gauges, etc. And your stroke, good rhythm, use a nice easy full stroke, GO STRAIGHT, zen out, keep moving, all of a sudden you are through! On to the next one.
If you have a single buggered tooth, well, it is easier to just wait, don't take the whole thing down. Just file that one neutral, reset it straight, file it pointy like, when the others catch up, you can re set it.
They have a special wrench for doing the set, bending the teeth (I will assume these are still for sale someplace), and it is easier if you have a modified vise, something that will hold a significant length of the bar in place as you file for sharpening. Regular vice with some long boards pinching the bar will work. Small flat file works, your choice, although I would imagine there are speciality files for them.
