Co-dominant split on Oak - - Can it be cabled?

[NebClimber]

Looked at a pin oak, 3' dbh, with co-dominant leaders. Homeowner said had been hit by lightining and wanted cost to trim and cable. In truth, the co-dominate leaders have split apart, opening a crack about 3 vertical feet in length. Looks like a huge hazard I believe should be removed immediately.

But in good faith, I turn here to be sure.

Can this tree be salvaged with cabling?

I am getting pics developed, but meantime, would anyone here advise cabling a large oak in which the co-doms have split apart and opened a 3' vertical crack?

Steven

 

[treeman82]

How high up is the crack? How far away from the house, driveway, etc is the tree?

 

[NeTree]

I wouldn't write it off just yet.

How long ago was it struck by lightning?

 

[okietreedude1]

If you cable it, make sure to put in a disclaimer that the cable/brace is NO GUARANTEE against future failure.

In my op, a 3' crack is alfully big to pull together. Sounds like a hazard to me too.

 

[NeTree]

I've cabled and braced worse that are still thriving.

My concern is if the lightning strike was recent or not. The entire tree or parts of it may be already kentucky fried dead; just not showing it yet.

If it wasn't recent, (ie a few years ago), I'd install cables and lags as necessary to tie the crack together and help prevent future failure as opposed to losing what sounds perhaps a desireable shade tree otherwise. (Why else would they even consider spending money on cabling/pruning, eh?)

Obviously an annual or semi-annual inspection program of the tree would be necessary as well.

 

[NebClimber]

Pictures of Split Oak

Here is a picture of the split in the oak, and a picture of the oak's canopy.

Note that on the split, the small spaces where you can see sunlight were once joined together.

Now what do you think?

Steven

 

[NebClimber]

Picture of canopy

Here is a pic of the canopy.

 

[NeTree]

Re: Pictures of Split Oak

Originally posted by NebClimber
Here is a picture of the split in the oak, and a picture of the oak's canopy.

Note that on the split, the small spaces where you can see sunlight were once joined together.

Now what do you think?

Steven

Oh heck, that's nothing. A beautiful tree otherwise!

 

[NeTree]

So... what's the timing on the lightnin' strike?

 

[NebClimber]

So you think this is lightning? Upon inspection, the crack is right along the margin where the co-doms join. It looks to me like this tree is literally splitting apart at the seams.

But maybe it is lighting. If so, I don't know when. The current homeowner has lived here 1 year and it happened before here arrival.

 

[NeTree]

Neb, you stated in your first post it was struck, so I was going on that.

Since if it was indeed struck, it has been over a year,- I'd feel comfortable with cabling and bracing it. If anything major was going to croak, it would have already... above the soil, anyways. Usually if there's a root dead, you'll see it in the canopy.

So, I still stand by save it, if everything is peachy otherwise.


The oaks around here that have split like that always seem to do it when there's a combination of higher-than-normal winds (even if only briefly) and high acorn production; as opposed to a heavy snow load in winter, when you'd perhaps expect it.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

I agree with Erik, the urban tree preserver. :angel: Cable and brace.

The amount of callus indicates it has been splitting apart at the seams for some time. When you first climb it, be on the lookout for lightning damage--tap with rubber hammer to hear hollows?

But if the only indication is the homeowner's words, learn to ignore people's theories on lightning etc., that's just the sound of them blaming nature for their neglect; very common.

A light thinning of weak branches will be in order, but watch out for removing crossing branches. They may be all that's holding it together! When branches are grafted together, esp. on codom trees, they're often best lightened at the ends and left.

 

[treeman45246]

No sign of a strike from the pictures. I used to do work for a large insurance company, investigating claims when they related to trees and providing a report as to why the tree failed. Can't count the number of homeowners who would swear they saw the lightning strike the tree... even showing me the 'Burn mark' the lightning left, which in fact, was included bark where the tree had split due to wind damage.
Lightning damage is covered by insurance in part because it is so rare, where wind damage is not covered at all, unless your policy has a special rider. Any property damage is covered, and the cost of removal is partly covered should a wind damaged tree fall onto property. Claims adjusters often know so little about trees, that they need this type of service - and they are getting wise to false claims. Homeowners just know that lightning is covered so they will swear that lightning was the culprit.
So as not to highjack your thread, I would place my vote with cabling and bracing the tree.

 

[Brock2saws]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
I'd save it too.
Would you guys recommend through bolting, or just supports above?

I'd prune as approprate (mindful of weight contributing to spread), pull it together with the cable and through bolt it down the split.

What's the downside to through bolts (bracing)?

BAB

 

[NeTree]

The only downside of thru-bolting will come if the tree is ever removed; somebody will be in for one helluva hard time keping their chain sharp.

Which brings me to another point: Yes, I'd install rods to tie the split in addition to the cabling above. You will need to install a tag in the tree that states as such. Somebody down the road will be thankful for the warning.

 

[NebClimber]

netree and others:

Can you walk me thru exactly how to bace/cable this tree?

For example, should I put rods thru in more than one place in the crevice? How do I pull the two co-doms back together? Do they need to be pulled completely back together? Should I get hardware from an arborist supply source, or should I just go to my hardware store? Should I place a dynamic cabling system in the canopy or a static system? Won't the tree "swallow" my hardware over time? If so, should I make my rods extra long so the nuts can be backed off over time. And so on and so on.

Steven

 

[NeTree]

Get your hardware from a trustworthy arborist supply.

It's be much easier to walk you thru it via phone as opposed to getting writers' cramp here. If you'd like, it's 888-398-8733.

You can also get a copy of "Best Management Practices: Cabling and Bracing" from Sherrill's. Not an ultimate resource, but a good place to start.

 

[Brock2saws]

Steven,

As you might imagine, there's more to it than driving a couple of lags (counter directions) into opposite limbs and twisting some wire together.

A good place to start is:

https://secure.isa-arbor.com/comersus/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=32

ANSI Best Practices for Cabeling and Bracing, $24.

I know you don't want to wait for the info, but you might be asking alot for the space provided on the forum. I hope somebody can give you more information/help .

Good Luck,
BAB

 

[NeTree]

brock... great minds think alike, eh?

 

[Brock2saws]

You beat me to it Erick!