Co-dominant split on Oak - - Can it be cabled?

[NebClimber]

I just ordered the ANSI for bracing and the companion field guide.

Plan of attack right now is to pull the co-doms together with a tensioned rope, then put 2 rods - one above the other - in the crack itself, and one rod about 1' above the split. Then install a cable in the canopy.

I guess I will use an electric drill and a 29" bit to make my holes.

Any advice on the drilling part? I have a pretty powerful cordless and a commercial grade electrict drill. I would like to use the cordless, but I think might not be powerful enough to drive the 29" bit I am going to buy from Sherrill.

Steven

 

[Proj Eng]

we used a 3/4" electric to drill holes for our 5/8" rebar on our log cabin. Had to drill in 3-6 inches and pull out to clean out the hole...sort of like tapping steel. Bit got Hot!

Careful with the drill though, those things have enough torque to wrap you up and take something with. Unfortunately, a guy at work just lost the end of his finger while drilling holes recently. Same sort of situation. Lost the end to his trigger finger.

 

[roachy]

Yea ,if the home owner wants to save it rods cable prune,If you can get your hands on Threaded tree rod you can take a short piece weld into a nut about half way then grind the other side down so it will fit into your drill chuck then just screw the rod right in .

 

[NeTree]

Neb, when you place the rods in (with washers countersunk below the bark, BTW) make sure you're not putting them directly in line with eachother- but rather staggered.

 

[Al Smith]

For what it's worth

Never bolted a tree together,however bolted a lot of utility poles.We had bits,of the ship auger design,up to 36" long,and drove them with a 3/4" Milwaukee drill.I found,if you clean out every 3 or 4 ",you are less likely to bind the drill,and a 3/4" drill moter has a lot of power.WE used,what was called,a double arming bolt,which is basicaly a piece of galvenized all thread,with square line washers,and square nuts,in 5/8" or 3/4".Just a thought,but,if you left several inches of exposed rod,it would be visible to someone,if the tree has to be removed,at a later date.Good luck,at saving the tree.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Might look into a 2 cycle drill with wide handle for leverged control against torque, Sherrill catalog alone can put you in the support cable mindset, but no replacement for actual materials (like ANSI).

Look for bolting to bind pieces together over time, partially as a preventative for included bark, woundwood (opening/crack) steadily pushing the codominate stems apart at base connection; also for the high leverage binding across that is forsaken in these joints that the grain runs parallel to each other, not binding across as the rod will. But, cannot violate any barrier of compartmentalized damage/dead wood that tree is trying to keep seperate from self. Violating wound wood also gives trees twisted signals too i think.

:alien:

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Here is a drawing i been werking on. After finding by informal observation all the hurricane damage i could survey; that codminates with included bark were about the only major branch damage. A few badly rotten spots were the only other sizable branching damage. Some small branches with out enough mass and leveraged diameatr to resist gotr twisted around like in a whirlwind.

Fallen trees of size all had buried root crowns, most with weak roots that snapped off close to tree, very few with tough elastic roots totally resisting and stretched out of ground. Otherwise, back to like codomintate trees siamesed to each other; unable to maximize rooting in opposite direction than lean, included bark was major tree fault. Disallowing obvious rot; too wet ground giving tree up (not really tree fault); no more whole tree failures of size. Lots of young blowovers, with not enough mass to stay put, nor root structure.

 

[NeTree]

Kenny? Can you do us all one small favor?




STOP SAYING "LEVERAGE"!!!!!

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by netree
STOP SAYING "LEVERAGE"!!!!!

Erik can you do us one large favor?
Give us a synonym that you like better!

I think "Leverage" is a descriptive term that most people easily understand. Anything deeper into physics and my head starts to swim.

Steve-- Mike and Erik give good advice, esp. when they tell you to get written specs. The BMP's co$t 5 bucks .

That's the price of a cuban sandwich.

 

[Ax-man]

Your getting all the right advice, the only thing I can add is if you have a limb directly overhead where your drilling throw a rope over the limb, tie it off some how, use the rope to help support the drill, this helps to take the weight of the drill off of you and is helpful in drilling straight and true.

A long bit has a tendency to flex in the middle and won't drill a true straight hole if too much muscle is used trying to get the bit through the tree, this can make rod insertion frustrating.

There is a good thread over at the ISA site on this subject with some very helpful info, for someone who is attempting to drill through a tree for the first time.

Larry

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

We do similar, try to get back sooner; though usually looking at worse to remove; especially in recent memory of hurricanes here..

Anchor 1 end low, come around target and back to an anchor; to form rough 2/1 support "U"; then tighten with chain hoist pulling on old tress cord on host support line. This way you can tie the tail down to finish, or take another pull with chain hoist; as long as hoist is linked to host line with friction hitch. i use olde tress cords of 3/8" Tenex @ 5000# test. i figure each leg of tress/prusik (usually in long Distel format) to be at choke strength X 2 legs. So 5000 x 80% x 2 legs would be ~8000 new on the cord. They don't slip, Tenex flattens out nicely for more strength on curve and more contact area i think on host.

Such a host line is pretty beat, and downgraded after any length of time in such a loaded position. Light, low impact loads or dragging only etc. for rest of life.

Chain hoist is some compact, rugged, portable power. Ammo box stashes it nicely with some cords. Even fits under tool box in small pickups discreetly, lining up room for more boxes for jumper cables, chains etc.

 

[Nickrosis]

KC, can you try a different pic for you signature.

I just received a 60" bit from Sherrill this week. Now I've gotta get to installing a bolt that was waiting on this thing. Do they make bits any bigger? This was $99 + $27 S&H ($7 shipping in the shopping cart, $20 imaginary increase on the bill).

 

[NeTree]

Nicky, what's wrong with Kenny's signature?

Don't you wanna play?