Conveyor hydraulic question

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I added a lift cylinder and replaced the original valve with a stacked valve, a cylinder valve and a motor valve, in that order.
The problem seems to be that on start up the belt does not turn for several seconds.
The drive motor is at the high end of the conveyor, and I'm assuming oil is bleeding back through the valve over night.
The cylinder will bleed down also, over several weeks, lowering the boom.

Do I simply need a check valve on each supply line?
Or is it more involved than that?

The system (as I understand it) is pump; flow control valve (for belt speed); cylinder valve; motor valve forward/reverse; then devices: cylinder, motor; and tank.
The flow control valve has a return to tank; valves have return to tank.
Note: Not really sure which hose is supply, and which is return, on the motor valve. Front hose seems to be supply for cylinder, but the valve handles work opposite, I think...
Just checked.
The first valve, the cylinder valve pull/lowers; push raised
Second valve, the motor valve: pull/forward; push/reverse belt.
Prince SV valves.
IMG_4808.jpgIMG_4812.jpg IMG_4809.jpgIMG_4810.jpg IMG_4248.jpg
 
Well, you cant add check valves on the supply lines, if you do the cyl and motor wont work at all as no oil could flow thru the hoses.
I looked hard at the pictures and couldnt see anything that resembled a leak. I will ask anyway, are any of the hoses leaking oil. The only way the cyl can leak down is if the oil is going somewhere. If there are no visible signs of a external leak, then the leak has to be internal. Internal usually means a leaking spool in the control valve and I know your valves are almost new. Has this been occurring since new, or is this something that just started? The conveyor cyl is set up with a overhung weight distribution, so a little downward creep is not all that unusual if left extended over time. A speck of dirt in the spool lans could be keeping the spool from fully closeing when centered and this would cause some creep. You could install a counter balance valve on the cyl to stop the creep, if its that big of a problem. With a counter balance valve, it would take a certain amount of pressure on the base of the cyl to open the valve on the rod end to let oil flow back to tank. Probably find a used counter balance valve on a old bucket truck, altho it seems most of the new cyl for that application have the valve build into the cyl.

About the conveyor motor. The spool valve is open center so the motor can coast to a stop. Again if oil is leaking somewhere, it should be visible or internal. Internal would almost have to be in the valve spool, or possibly the flow control. Again, new parts, but ??????
 
Valves are new. No external leaks that I'm aware of.
Problem only since the new installation, and then right from the get go.
About a two to three second lag on start up. Good for the day otherwise, and I shut down the conveyor every time a drum is full.
Cylinder bleed down: Bottoms out before resting on Posch drum, so not a problem at the moment.
I run the belt fairly slow, maybe 1/4 speed of max (which is very fast) or less. With belt running, no flow to cylinder. That's fine, just saying. Close belt valve, adjust cylinder if need be. Height of conveyor, and speed, does effect how the Posch drum fills, whether it is coning in all directions as it fills.
I did not use a larger reservoir.
I did add oil do to a larger external system, but there is still 10% air space in the tank for expansion due to cylinder volume and heat. It is a small tank however.
Cylinder responds immediately to valve change up or down.

I'll examine the entire system for leaks, and oil level in tank. Nothing is obviously leaking externally, but I'm not set up on concrete either.
I does seem to take a little longer to start then initially, with approx. 120 hours run time. (longer... seems to indicate an external leak)
The oil did appear very clean, however, I did have the system open, added new hoses, a device, and the vent cap on the tank is a pipe cap fitting with a hole drilled in it. Nice huh.

I was thinking, well then, a counter balance valve between the motor valve and motor....but...then there is no reverse.

Reverse is essential, but not for backing up wood. For dislodging chips between the lower drum and belt that throw off the belt tracking, which can be bi-weekly, or several times in one day, depending. With reverse it only takes a minute to clear.
I'll give it a look tomorrow (today actually).
Thanks...
 
All is normal, neither are problems.

Bleed down is normal. If it was bleeding down over a few hours I'd fix it though as it'd be annoying. (worn cylinder or valve).


If you really want you could put a counterbalance, load hold or pilot operated check valve.

Really should do that or put a pin. If you blow the cylinder line it would crash down otherwise.

Is the conveyor balanced odd? Shouldn't need power down.
 
I was suggesting a counter balance valve on the cyl. Not the motor. A counter balance valve will allow operation in both directions as it should have a built in bypass. With your cyl mounting, (base side up), the valve would be on the base port with a load sensing line connected to the rod port. The valve would keep fluid inside the cyl until a set pressure was met on the rod end to open the valve and let the cyl retract. For extension, the fluid would flow thru the check valve bypass unrestricted. This would mean power up and power down for extension and retraction, but the cyl will stay in position and provide a degree of safety in the event of a blown hose. Really, in a suspended application, a counter balance valve of some type should be incorporated. In a bucket truck or man lift, a counter balance is necessary to keep the lift from falling in case of some sort of hyd failure. Probably cost around $100 plus plumbing cost. I have some bucket truck cyls with the built in valve, but I doubt any of them would fit your application without a lot of modification.

For the hyd motor, a brake valve is usually used to hold the motor, I dont see a need for one on your conveyor. Also see no reason for a counter balance valve either. I can only speculate as to the reason for the slow startup. With your flow control limiting oil flow, it could simply be it takes a few seconds to build the power it needs to start turning. Most all of those motors have a minimum flow requirement. I would try opening the flow control wide open at startup and then reduce flow to see if that helps.
 
Thanks for the comments ValleyFirewood.
The pivot point seized in the past from lack of movement and zerks (grease fittings).
That was the reason for the hand crank failure.
Added four zerks on the tube-in tube axle frame pivot mounted below the belt, and bought a much better grease gun than what I had.
I wanted down pressure. It was still stiff through half the range of motion, plus winter slows dump boxes and such, I figured this would react the same without down pressure.

Also, I bought the cylinder from BuiltRite, the conveyor manufacturer, to get the proper size and mount. (I did not buy the valve from them.)
I did specify down pressure.
I do not know if they special ordered it or not, but it came in the hydraulic manufactures packaging, and Built-Rite put their sticker on it and forwarded it to me.
Could not tell you if their standard conveyors have down pressure.

I have thought of adding a rod to pin in place. Your comment about hose failure reinforces that.

Balance point changes depending on height. This is because the wheels/tires move forward (when raised) and back (when lowered) in relation to the hitch. Using the axle mounting point (verses the ladder frame mount) and reduced range of the cylinder (over the hand crank jack w/slip tube and pin) pretty much eliminates tipping over backwards even when the last splits of a heavily loaded belt moves past the pivot point. I'm no longer doing high piles. I do raise it to load an occasional truck, or when I use the quad to move it, to reduce tongue weight.IMG_4222.jpgIMG_4213.jpg Found shot of original set up with crank handle broken off at bottom. I think there were six holes for pin adjustment, and the high mounting point. Mounts had to be changed for the cylinder application. IMG_4259.jpg
 
System was not running. Visually checked for leaks and found none. Everything was dry, even around tank breather, and lower entry points. Forgot to take channel locks, so did not check level of tank.

Opened flow control to max.
Started engine and let warm up for a minute as to not stall it.
Opened motor valve.
Belt did not move.
1/2 to 1 sec. belt was at full speed. Easily 1/3 time reduction over my normal setting.
I'm not sure what that tells me. It could still be bleeding down through the 'spool', and refilling faster due to the flow control setting.

My original question arises only because this is a deviation from the original valve, which did not lag, except perhaps in winter.
And a concern that the lag may in some way be damaging some the the components.

A check valve on the cylinder is needed.
 
I dont know what the deviation might have been from original valve, but I am 99.999% sure your current valve and motor combination isnt hurting anything. I still believe it is just a matter of the flow building pressure that is causing the lag time. One other thing you can try to see if it makes a difference is simply swap the hoses from one spool to the other at the control valve. The open spool of the motor control valve is only to allow the motor to spool down from a high speed to a stop and prevent shockloading as the oil flow is blocked. You conveyor isnt reaching anywhere near the speed or under enough rotating mass to cause any problems with a sudden stop. Swapping control valves might show if the lag time is because of fluid leaking back thru the valve spooling or if something else is the problem. You wouldnt be able to use the motor spool valve to control your cyl because the cyl is under compression supporting the conveyor, but the test swap might get you pointed in the right direction toward finding the problem.

I looked at your cyl, and it looks like a standard tierod cyl that can be bought at TSC, Northern, and a lot of other places off the shelf. With the control valve description. it would be power up and down. That doesnt mean its going to be equal pressure to do so, your cyl is under a overhung load application with a suspended load. When the valve is shifted from center, fluid flows from valve to cyl thru ports A or B, and returns from cyl thru ports B or A. Now the flow going from valve to cyl is under pressure, but the fluid going from cyl to valve is open to tank and no pressure or very minimal pressure caused by flow restrictions and friction. What this means is that lowering your conveyor shifting the control valve is like opening a ball valve and just dumping the fluid out of the cyl, with no resistance to support the load. Dump the oil fast enough and the cyl will just slam down. Prop the conveyor up with a pole, remove a hose and kick out the pole to get a ideal of how fast the cyl can fall. to control this fall, you have to control the speed of the oil exiting the cyl. This might be done by simply feathering the lever on the control valve.A heavy handed operator might have a problem controlling speed. Another way would be to meter the flow in and out of the cyl using a orficed fitting or a flow control. I dont like orficed fittings because they limit flow going in as well as going out, slowing the cyl in both directions. flow controls are available the control flow in one direction and let oil free flow the opposite direction. Best option takes us back to the counter balance valve. Putting the counter balance valve at the base of the cyl would allow full fluid flow for a fast extension speed. It will not allow any fluid to flow back out of the base end of the cyl unless a set amount of pressure is applied to the rod end of the cyl, and in the event the fluid pressured dropped on the rod end, the valve would stop fluid flow escapeing the base end and prevent sudden cyl drop. You could remove the hose from the valve and it would still support the cyl until the set pressure is reached at the rod end of cyl

You cannot use a check valve on a cyl. A check valve allows fluid flow in one direction only. If you put one in your cyl line, you might be able to raise the cyl, but since fluid couldnt return, you couldnt lower the cyl.
 
If you're that concerned about it you can install a ball valve at one end of the lift or power hose. Farm implements use them as check valves for holding things like cutter assemblies in the transport position for over the road travel.
 
A check valve on the cylinder is needed.

I misspoke. A counterbalance valve.
I was looking at Surplus Center's catalog.
Did not find counterbalance valves.
They have pilot operated check valves which sounded like a counterbalance valve by the description.

A ball valve would work but not address hose failure in the open position, or my forgetfulness to open it when necessary. Big difference in price though.
 
PO check vales are a poor mans counter balance valve. The biggest difference is the PO check valve doesnt have a modulated flow. its either open or its closed. A counter balance valve does have a modulated flow. What that means is the PO valve will hold the fluid but when pilot pressure is met, the valve fully opens and might cause a bouncing action as the conveyor is lowered. The CB valve opens according to flow requirements so instead of being fully open it would open just enough to let the excess fluid flow. this would give a smoother cyl retraction and lowering of the conveyor. My explanation might not be the best description of how the two valve work. A counter balance valve would be a better choice, but your conveyor isnt that heavy. The main thing is the PO check valve will hold the conveyor up and prevent a sudden drop if a hose burst.
 
Valley made the suggestion that a possible cause of the cyl leaking down might be because of a worn cyl or leaky valve. Here is another vid that might help someone with a similar problem. , (yea I have been watching more of the videos since i found that site yesterday)
 
This is an interesting problem.

-Definitely use POCB not PO checks. The check would probably chatter but you could live with it. Larger issue is that the check valves seal tight and don't have any pressure relief if the system heats up in say the hot sun when parked, with cylinder fully extended or retracted, depending on circuit. The oil expands, but is sealed tight, and pressure can build really high. A PO counterbalance is a spool device, not a ball check device, and is functions sort of like a relief valve if the cylinder pressure builds really high. POCB are usually set abouy 25% or so higher than the load pressure. There are different pilot ratios for different circuits to give stability but not create excess heat. For this cylinder load, basically any ratio between 1 to 3 would be fine. A 5 or 10 may chatter but would probably work if you got one free. Mount with hard connection to cylinder closed end. Preferably no hose or tube between, but this isn't a critical application like a crane. Not a pipe nipple if NPT. Use an actual hex hydraulic adaptor.
Personally, I'd just add a tube in tube and a pin since it gets used infrequently. If someone like Valley who uses it daily, I'd put the $$ for a POCB.

-The cylinder bleed down is valve spool leakage, not cylinder seals.

edit: mudd's linked video cylinder drift explains this well. i had not watched before. 7/3/17.

When the cylinder is loaded in the retract direction and the closed side is resisting the load, you could take the seals totally out and it should not drift. It would be a single acting ram like a snow plow, instead of a cylinder, and the pressure would be much higher, like two or three times normal. It will support the load by the much smaller rod area, not the full piston area. If pressure is high enough, the rod side seal could blow out, or other wise damage the tube, but if nothing fails the cylinder should not move.
Bleeding down over several weeks is as good as you will ever get with spool valve. I'd add the mechanical pin in stowed position, or the POCB.

-The interesting part is the motor lag. In one post you said several seconds, then 2-3 seconds, now fraction of a second. Several seconds is strange, but a second is not unusual. The fact it changed from before is of interest.

It would be helpful to have a pic of the flow control. I assume that was original, and was originally before the spool valve, true? Are there three ports? One from pump, one to the control valve, and one to tank? That is what I would expect, and is a bypass flow control, also called priority divider. Sends constant flow one way, bypasses the rest to tank. It throttles the bypass direction just enough to send the priority the right flow. It can be fairly efficient. With light loads.
A simple two ported flow control or orifice can give constant flow, but it throttles the flow downstream and forces any extra flow across relief valve at full system pressure. Fine for intermittent cylinder use, but a BIG heater when used in motor circuit. So I assume this used a three ported priority valve.

- Drain down?
Oil in the motor circuit is connected to tank through the control valve. A motor spool has P-A-B-T all connected together in center to prevent a hard stop on one side and cavitation of the motor on the back side. Oil in the hoses is theoretically connected to tank. However, assuming no circuit changes, the oil in hoses should not 'drain down'. Common misconception but since the system is supposedly sealed, it can't drain down. It works like an old style chicken waterer or hamster water bottle. Unless the height exceeds 30 feet of atmospheric presure, it won't drain back. (Technically, won't drain then either, it is cavitation. But a bunny trail.)

'Sealed' is the key. If the motor shaft seal leaks air into the motor case (which is connected to the A and B ports) it could drain down, but realistically the pressure drops across the internal check valves and across the seal, vs the just a few feet of height difference, I don't think this is it.

I suspect it is the conveyor belt compliance, or possibly belt going backwards slightly when parked. Long shot, but that could draw air through a shaft seal into the motor. It is possible a hose conmnection can draw air in but not leak oil out under pressure, but that is much more common on suction lines. Doubt that is the issue.

Try these:
1. Mark the belt or put a stick on it when parked. See if it moves backwards overnight.

2. When you start the engine, move the lift cylinder first before belt. Is there a slight delay in response? I.e. Is the delay occuring whichever function is operated first. Meaning it could be something in the suction or pump or flow divider, not the main control valve.
That should happen with every startup, noty just first time of the day.
Note: the priority divider will take a bit of time to respond, but usually it is the other way-It starts with a bit of a jerk too much, then settles down as the spool shifts and it controls flow.

3. Run engine at part throttle. Does the belt speed hold constant, down to some lower engine speed where it starts to droop? That indicates what type of divider it is.


If it delays several seconds, something is wrong. We shall keep on it.
If it takes a fraction of a second to start, I'd not worry about it. Just run it, but watch the motor shaft seal.
 
mudstopper: That's incredible. Thanks for taking the time.
Can't imagine what goes into something more complicated, like a processor.
I too have been watching some of the other Lunch Box series.

Once you understand basic hydraulics, it's not too bad. A person can get really creative setting up a system though.

I can say on my processor, things were NOT designed correctly and I've had to spend about $1000 up sizing hoses. Things like 40+ gpm through a 1" suction line, 60 gpm through a 1/2" pressure line, etc.
I had to add a cooler, I got told when I first got it "ohnyeah, it'll get hot, that's normal". By hot they meant 200+*! No, no its not, it's bad design!

I pretty much learned by doing. Getting into books and reading online.
 
keven j:
The flow control has three ports w/return to tank, and yes, is plumbed as originally, before the single motor valve.
The flow control can be seen in post #1, below the control valves, both front and back. The lowest hose is the return line.

The change in belt start up, or decreased lag time, was with the flow control set to full flow. My run speed is quite low, the flow control at 1/4 flow if the lever is an indication, and the wood falls off the end of the conveyor. (post #1, 1st photo, flow control: there are two spring steel split pins that act as high/low stops, one on the left edge is low, one at the right bottom edge is the high end speed stop) High speed will shoot the wood a few feet, and down the back of the pile. Useful if a pile is about maxed out to the top drum of the conveyor and you want to over shoot the top, but I split into the Posch fill drums to palletize. Low speed style, less wear and tear.

Sun and heat. I keep my plastic fuel cans in the shade now that it is summer, and still burp them before fueling.

Built-Rite, if I'm not mistaken, uses two separate valves in series, for conveyors with factory hydraulic lift. No clue as to plumbing, but the mounting plate the valves are on, indicate this also as it was predrilled for something.

Note: I am extremely happy with this conveyor.
I do believe the original issue, a seized pivot tube could have easily been avoided, and the hand crank still serviceable, had Built-Rite added some very inexpensive grease fittings in the appropriate places.

I got the cylinder from them for two reasons. Sizing and end couplings to fit the conveyor. As it turned out, I needed to hired a welder to modify the frame mounts to fit the cylinder mounts, an expense I was trying to avoid by ordering through them. The cylinder is in an angled position, and I assume there are shear forces or side forces acting on the cylinder rod, especially when towing without suspension, and did not know what size rod would be necessary.

The original valve was good, but I did not know what exactly it was, and if I could simply add a valve beyond. I was skeptical that if I ordered a valve from B-R for the cylinder, my original might not work with it.. So I got stacked valves from Surplus Center.

I bought this conveyor used, and not from Built-Rite. So there is that.
Long winded again, but thanks for these comments and questions.
 
I'm just throwing this out there and realize it is slightly off topic.

Has anyone considered driving the conveyor hydraulics with a large power steering type pump driven from the flywheel side of a motor?
While complicating the spitter it would eliminate using a flow divider. It likely would be slow though and not useful in a high production system but maybe work for small log splitter set up.
 
I have seen power steering pumps used in all kinds of hillbilly engineering. Most of the time, the results where less that good. I have never looked into flow and pressure ratings of such a pump. I would suspect a large truck pump might work better that one off a honda civic. I do know that power steering pumps are used to power hydraulic winches, so I suspect the right pump could be adapted to power a small conveyor.
 

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