could've been done in half the time...

[b1rdman]

granted I can get my wedges from tree to tree

If you aren't able to get your wedges from tree to tree you shouldn't be hauling any gear to begin with.

I think you misread his post.

I use plastic and steel (mostly steel). I'll pick up the plastic when weight or proximity to the saw dictates but 9 out of 10 times I grab steel wedges.

I'm open to learning more too so the question remains unanswered.

What advantage does the plastic wedge have?

 

[ropensaddle]

I think you misread his post.

I use plastic and steel (mostly steel). I'll pick up the plastic when weight or proximity to the saw dictates but 9 out of 10 times I grab steel wedges.

I'm open to learning more too so the question remains unanswered.

What advantage does the plastic wedge have?

You already mentioned their main advantage close to chain
plastic comes out and ease of carrying in the woods. I drill
mine out and put a rope and snap so you can snap to your saddle
or belt loop for woods cutting!

 

[Nailsbeats]

Yeah Rope, I do the same on mine for up in the tree.

Aside from the BS, I am still waiting for an answer.

 

[slowp]

The advantage of the plastic wedge is...if you do happen to saw it, it isn't going to wreck your chain. I have chewed up quite a few over the winter. I use them for bucking. I use them frequently. Keeps the saw from getting stuck. Or gets it out after getting stuck. Whatever. Don't leave home without them.

 

[redprospector]

Ok, all BS aside.
A minimum of 3 wedges should be on the person (not in your pack, or in the truck, or at home in the shed), along with a minimum 3 lb. axe. If you don't carry them in a wedge pouch, or pocket you will spend more time hunting them down than you do cutting trees.
Now since you're carrying those bigass splitting wedges you might get away with 2.
If everything else is equal, I am carrying about a pound of wedges, You are carrying 10 pounds of wedges. That's only a 9 pound difference if you're driving your bigass splitting wedges with a 3 pound axe, which I doubt. You're probably driving them with at least a 6 pound maul, or sledge. That puts you carrying 12 pounds more than me. Some of the strips I've cut, I had to hike a mile or more to get to them because the roads weren't built yet. After felling, limbing, and bucking to length 75 to 150 trees (depending on the size of trees) I'd be willing to bet that extra 12 pounds would have your butt getting home about an hour after the rest of you got there.

The taper on plastic wedges is far easier to lift a tree with (can you say leverage?). The taper on a bigass splitting wedge is made to break wood apart. You can drive a 10 penny nail with an 8 lb. sledge, but that doesn't make it the right tool for the job.

Another place plastic wedges shine is if you hit one with the saw you're not dead in the water. I think you said you haven't hit a wedge with a saw........Keep cutting, you will.
I've heard some people say they don't like plastic wedges because they break. That's like saying I don't like nails because they bend when I hit them. Learn how to hit them straight.:bang:

I've got some old steel felling wedges that I found on a sale, they're hanging on the wall where they belong, and they are a slim taper like the new plastic ones, maybe slimmer. The last time that area was logged was in the 30's

This is only a couple of reasons that plastic wedges are better than steel splitting wedges for felling timber. Yes, they may apply mostly in the west. So if you're just fiddle-farting around cutting a few trees a day, then by all means use your bigass splitting wedges, and drive them with a monster maul if you want too. Maybe you'll break off a hinge lifting that hard that fast. I just hope it don't squash you.

Andy

 

[abohac]

You might want to go to the Madsen's and Bailey's websites. These are the two largest logging supply houses, probably in the world. Note the numbers of different wedges they use....styles, shapes, materials.....

Your old man is a timber faller, huh?

Ya'll might want to come out west, and see how the big boys fell real timber.....doubt you'll see a one of them packing steel into the woods....a few might have a couple magnesium wedges.....or a hardhead plastic......

Don't want to pipe in and be a smart#$%@^ but do you guys ever cut anything bigger than those telephone poles on the axmen show? I saw some big timber cut in Alaska but nothing really very big on that show. And, I am really trying to learn something here becasue I have never been to Wash or Oregon.

 

[abohac]

...with a longer bar... after all, it is a 372

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h710OWVVeqI&feature=related

Got a lot of neat stuff he carries around with him though! Got some nice duds too!

 

[b1rdman]

The advantage of the plastic wedge is...if you do happen to saw it, it isn't going to wreck your chain. I have chewed up quite a few over the winter. I use them for bucking. I use them frequently. Keeps the saw from getting stuck. Or gets it out after getting stuck. Whatever. Don't leave home without them.

I'm with you on that!

I always have one or two in my back pocket when bucking.

 

[b1rdman]

Ok, all BS aside.
A minimum of 3 wedges should be on the person (not in your pack, or in the truck, or at home in the shed), along with a minimum 3 lb. axe. If you don't carry them in a wedge pouch, or pocket you will spend more time hunting them down than you do cutting trees.
Now since you're carrying those bigass splitting wedges you might get away with 2.
If everything else is equal, I am carrying about a pound of wedges, You are carrying 10 pounds of wedges. That's only a 9 pound difference if you're driving your bigass splitting wedges with a 3 pound axe, which I doubt. You're probably driving them with at least a 6 pound maul, or sledge. That puts you carrying 12 pounds more than me. Some of the strips I've cut, I had to hike a mile or more to get to them because the roads weren't built yet. After felling, limbing, and bucking to length 75 to 150 trees (depending on the size of trees) I'd be willing to bet that extra 12 pounds would have your butt getting home about an hour after the rest of you got there.

The taper on plastic wedges is far easier to lift a tree with (can you say leverage?). The taper on a bigass splitting wedge is made to break wood apart. You can drive a 10 penny nail with an 8 lb. sledge, but that doesn't make it the right tool for the job.

Another place plastic wedges shine is if you hit one with the saw you're not dead in the water. I think you said you haven't hit a wedge with a saw........Keep cutting, you will.
I've heard some people say they don't like plastic wedges because they break. That's like saying I don't like nails because they bend when I hit them. Learn how to hit them straight.:bang:

I've got some old steel felling wedges that I found on a sale, they're hanging on the wall where they belong, and they are a slim taper like the new plastic ones, maybe slimmer. The last time that area was logged was in the 30's

This is only a couple of reasons that plastic wedges are better than steel splitting wedges for felling timber. Yes, they may apply mostly in the west. So if you're just fiddle-farting around cutting a few trees a day, then by all means use your bigass splitting wedges, and drive them with a monster maul if you want too. Maybe you'll break off a hinge lifting that hard that fast. I just hope it don't squash you.

Andy

Sure it's easier but doesn't the slimmer profile of a plastic wedge translate into less lift? Thus less leverage?

 

[redprospector]

Sure it's easier but doesn't the slimmer profile of a plastic wedge translate into less lift? Thus less leverage?

Nope.
Let's say we have a 10' bar to lift a heavy object, if we put the fulcrum 5' from the object we will get a lot of lift, but little leverage. Now let's move the fulcrum in to 1' from the object, we don't get as much lift but we have a lot of leverage.
Which one is easier to drive? The splitting wedge, or the felling wedge? If it's easier to lift the same object you have more leverage.
With a thicker (splitting) wedge you have less leverage, possibly lifting the tree too hard (using a heavier driver to make up for loss of leverage), and in certain circumstances can break the hinge.

Andy

 

[b1rdman]

Nope.
Let's say we have a 10' bar to lift a heavy object, if we put the fulcrum 5' from the object we will get a lot of lift, but little leverage. Now let's move the fulcrum in to 1' from the object, we don't get as much lift but we have a lot of leverage.
Which one is easier to drive? The splitting wedge, or the felling wedge? If it's easier to lift the same object you have more leverage.

Andy

Interesting.

I sure wish I didn't mow the lawn tonight because I always have a couple cold ones while mowing. I'm sure this would be crystal clear on any other night.

 

[redprospector]

Interesting.

I sure wish I didn't mow the lawn tonight because I always have a couple cold ones while mowing. I'm sure this would be crystal clear on any other night.

Clear as mud huh?

Andy

 

[b1rdman]

Clear as mud huh?

Andy

naw... I got it now, but you'll have to excuse me.

I'm on vacation!

 

[redprospector]

I'm on vacation!

What? You lucky dog. The last time I had one of those was when I ran out of work.

Andy

 

[Zodiac45]

Plastic's the best way to go. They are high tech as wedges go. They have grips (like large rasp teeth) on the bottom to help them hold( not squirt out)We have what they call hardheads which are plastic with metal beating ends, but no one uses steel wedges any more. I usually have 3 with me, an 8 , 10 and 12".
And yep Birdman less lift (over a longer length) translates into more leverage. Think of it as a ratio/lower gear.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Plastic wedges may have more leverage in principle, but not in my real world experience because they just don't drive like steel ones. Thus, my original joke about throwing them out, that guy really wacked away with that old hatchet.

Keep in mind now, I am speaking in terms of eastern hardwood not western softwood. Plastic wedges do not fair well with those nasty, old, crooked, limby, unbalanced, hardwood trees. They need a lot of lift especially when going opposite the lean. Put a couple steel wedges in with a 8lb maul and you don't need to stack can drive them in with good lift and no wedge damage. With trees 20" and up (this is where they shine) you usually don't have to worry much about contacting the wedge. You don't have to pound it in as far to get the same lift. Next best thing to a tree jack in my opinion.

For bucking I will agree that plastics work great. Placing a wedge above the saw to hold open the kerf. I also use them when climbing to hold the kerf.

I am not trying to re-educate the western cutters, there are many different variables and if I were in their shoes I would be doing it the same way they are. I am simply stating the virtues of steel wedges that I have found and deem valueable for my use in my area.

As far as playing me off as a young punk that doesn't listen, that is simply not true. There are different sides to the debate, both having meritt in their applications.

Logging is a big business in Wisconsin and there are many pro's in my area. Though processors have taken the place of many a faller.

 

[abohac]

I can settle this. If you like plastic use 'em. If you like steel, use 'em. If you like a big ax then use that. If you like a small ax, use that. Wow. I think I'll become a therapist (Dr. Phil better watch out)

 

[ropensaddle]

I can settle this. If you like plastic use 'em. If you like steel, use 'em. If you like a big ax then use that. If you like a small ax, use that. Wow. I think I'll become a therapist (Dr. Phil better watch out)

If you do I will winch ya out of the hole bud

 

[redprospector]

Plastic wedges may have more leverage in principle, but not in my real world experience because they just don't drive like steel ones. Thus, my original joke about throwing them out, that guy really wacked away with that old hatchet.

Keep in mind now, I am speaking in terms of eastern hardwood not western softwood. Plastic wedges do not fair well with those nasty, old, crooked, limby, unbalanced, hardwood trees. They need a lot of lift especially when going opposite the lean. Put a couple steel wedges in with a 8lb maul and you don't need to stack can drive them in with good lift and no wedge damage. With trees 20" and up (this is where they shine) you usually don't have to worry much about contacting the wedge. You don't have to pound it in as far to get the same lift. Next best thing to a tree jack in my opinion.

For bucking I will agree that plastics work great. Placing a wedge above the saw to hold open the kerf. I also use them when climbing to hold the kerf.

I am not trying to re-educate the western cutters, there are many different variables and if I were in their shoes I would be doing it the same way they are. I am simply stating the virtues of steel wedges that I have found and deem valueable for my use in my area.

As far as playing me off as a young punk that doesn't listen, that is simply not true. There are different sides to the debate, both having meritt in their applications.

Logging is a big business in Wisconsin and there are many pro's in my area. Though processors have taken the place of many a faller.

Whatever floats your boat.
If I remember right, I cut a hardwood tree east of the center line of the US once. Physics, are Physics reguardless of which side of the country your on.
I didn't mean to say you don't listen. I've heard that our brains have a capacity, and that when you reach that capacity you just can't learn something else without forgetting something to make room for it. You obviously are at that capacity.
Personally I'm not that smart yet. But I am smart enough to know when I'm wasting my time.
Have fun, and don't get squashed.

Andy

 

[Fuzly]

Nails,

You just have to understand we are tougher in Wisconsin and can swing that 8 pounder no problem to put those steel wedges in. In many areas there is a condition called weaktititis, which makes swinging a sledge too dificult.

Really though, the only person I see out in the woods with plastic wedges is, well, me. That's about it, cause I like trying stuff out, and I had a guy show me how to use them. (Bigger the better BTW)

Don't see anybody carrying an axe around either, a few guys carry a couple plastic wedges in their pocket, but they just cut a hardwood club if they need to pound 'em.

Don't know what the big deal is with the steel, I've seen it done too.