smokinj
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use the splitting wedges gives you alot of lift when you need the tree to go in a direction other than it wants to go naturally (not needed for every tree)
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could've been done in half the time...
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I use the splitting wedges gives you alot of lift when you need the tree to go in a direction other than it wants to go naturally (not needed for every tree)
treemandan
Tree Freak
What a joke. Throw those platic wedges in the garbage where they belong.
They are good for bucking logs on the ground that will close on your saw but then again so is a little piece of bark.
Don't laugh at me cause I have a couple of them but I don't use them much. I also have a bastard file for my gaffs but that don't see to much action either. I also have a 7/32 saw file but the only place it will works is next to the beer fridge, hold on............. Yup still cold.
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rtrsam
ArboristSite Operative
I've used steel firewood wedges a few times when I had nothing else, but I'm more likely to cut a wood wedge insead. If I get real busy with a fat taper but thin firewood wedge, I've just seen it compressing the wood around the wedge instead of lifting the tree. This is especially true in softwoods where you might have 3" of sapwood before you get to anything tough enough to lift a tree
I've also used steel "production" wedges, like we use for making split rails out of redwoods for falling, a steel wedge about the size and shape as an 8" or 10" plastic wedge.
However, I can count my steel wedges for falling experiences on one hand, the rest of the time it's plastic or a Silvey jack.
I've seen steel falling wedges in museums but I sure would't know where a person could find them for sale today. I have a hard enough time getting steel splitting wedges for redwoods, and last time I checked I couldn't even find a checker wedge.
And the guy in the video, ot looks like he could have used a deeper face cut (was he even 1/4 way through the tree?) and he either didn't need wedges at all or he got real lucky that tree didn't set back because he was cut a long ways before he ever put in a wedge.
I've also used steel "production" wedges, like we use for making split rails out of redwoods for falling, a steel wedge about the size and shape as an 8" or 10" plastic wedge.
However, I can count my steel wedges for falling experiences on one hand, the rest of the time it's plastic or a Silvey jack.
I've seen steel falling wedges in museums but I sure would't know where a person could find them for sale today. I have a hard enough time getting steel splitting wedges for redwoods, and last time I checked I couldn't even find a checker wedge.
And the guy in the video, ot looks like he could have used a deeper face cut (was he even 1/4 way through the tree?) and he either didn't need wedges at all or he got real lucky that tree didn't set back because he was cut a long ways before he ever put in a wedge.
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treemandan
Tree Freak
hell, i usually just drive them into the bar, I thought that is how it was supposed to be done.
I have to tell you though, buddy, it says right on the box that the neon green ones are for homosexuals to use. The orange ones are for heterosexuals. You had better switch before people get the wrong idea.
well whatever you fancy but mine are all much shorter than when I first got them.
A Wedge In Use
Here is a photo of actual wedge useage. It is blurry because things weren't going so well and I get jumpy and ready to run away in such situations.
Another picture. Note the hardhat color coordination with the wedge.
I am also noticing a new trend this year of having the felling axe painted flourescent orange. I always wondered why nobody did that. Makes things much easier to find in the woods. The axe also matches hat and wedge for a very sophisticated look. In the winter, he'll also match with his orange caulks.
Here is a photo of actual wedge useage. It is blurry because things weren't going so well and I get jumpy and ready to run away in such situations.
Another picture. Note the hardhat color coordination with the wedge.
I am also noticing a new trend this year of having the felling axe painted flourescent orange. I always wondered why nobody did that. Makes things much easier to find in the woods. The axe also matches hat and wedge for a very sophisticated look. In the winter, he'll also match with his orange caulks.
EVERYBODY seems to have missed the point of the film !
This obviously was NOT some newbie showing off his cool toys. It looks to me like a very experienced feller proving some point. I'm just not sure what the point is. I think he was just trying to show how much tree he could cut off before the tree fell over. Supporting this conclusion:
1. The bore cut was started and finished very smoothly. No way to fake knowing how to do that. As he proceeded through the cut, he carefully pivoted on the point of the saw and left a strip of wood perpendicular to the hinge.
2. The wedge was placed and pounded tight to HOLD the tree before the finishing cut was placed, but he obviously did not expect the tree to go over even the second time the wedge was pounded in.
3. The entire back cut was finished, and the tree was not sent over with the wedge, it was only tightened up a bit.
4. To finish the tree, the hinge was almost 1/2 cut off but the tree didn't fall yet. Either pure dumb luck, or somebody was carefully loading the wedge up to not quite push the tree over. When the hinge wood was reduced, it was done with a bore cut with the bar finishing on the compression side of the tree. That's not the sort of cut you would do unless you had a lot of confidence in your skills.
5. After all the work and preparation, the tree went over VERY slow after only 5 whacks with the hatchet. The guy had enough time to pick up his wedge, stand back up, put a hand on the tree, and casually step away. That would only happen if you had finished the tree with just barely enough wood to hold it up, and that it was pretty close to perfectly balanced otherwise.
These are not the sort of things that happen by accident. I just don't know what the guy was trying to prove.
Q.E.D.
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All you guys arguing about wedges: that's almost as bad as arguing about Stihl vs Husqy, hand filing vs. machine, Ford vs Chevy, etc. What's the point ?
This obviously was NOT some newbie showing off his cool toys. It looks to me like a very experienced feller proving some point. I'm just not sure what the point is. I think he was just trying to show how much tree he could cut off before the tree fell over. Supporting this conclusion:
1. The bore cut was started and finished very smoothly. No way to fake knowing how to do that. As he proceeded through the cut, he carefully pivoted on the point of the saw and left a strip of wood perpendicular to the hinge.
2. The wedge was placed and pounded tight to HOLD the tree before the finishing cut was placed, but he obviously did not expect the tree to go over even the second time the wedge was pounded in.
3. The entire back cut was finished, and the tree was not sent over with the wedge, it was only tightened up a bit.
4. To finish the tree, the hinge was almost 1/2 cut off but the tree didn't fall yet. Either pure dumb luck, or somebody was carefully loading the wedge up to not quite push the tree over. When the hinge wood was reduced, it was done with a bore cut with the bar finishing on the compression side of the tree. That's not the sort of cut you would do unless you had a lot of confidence in your skills.
5. After all the work and preparation, the tree went over VERY slow after only 5 whacks with the hatchet. The guy had enough time to pick up his wedge, stand back up, put a hand on the tree, and casually step away. That would only happen if you had finished the tree with just barely enough wood to hold it up, and that it was pretty close to perfectly balanced otherwise.
These are not the sort of things that happen by accident. I just don't know what the guy was trying to prove.
Q.E.D.
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All you guys arguing about wedges: that's almost as bad as arguing about Stihl vs Husqy, hand filing vs. machine, Ford vs Chevy, etc. What's the point ?
You didn't look close enough
He left a section of wood perpendicular to the hinge to hold the tree up. It was carefully planned.
He left a section of wood perpendicular to the hinge to hold the tree up. It was carefully planned.
All you guys arguing about wedges: that's almost as bad as arguing about Stihl vs Husqy, hand filing vs. machine, Ford vs Chevy, etc. What's the point ?[/QUOTE]
Yeah! What is with all the discussion. You would think this is a discussion forum. Hey, wait it is.
I guess you learned something, finally.
Yeah! What is with all the discussion. You would think this is a discussion forum. Hey, wait it is.
I guess you learned something, finally.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just saw this thread, I have been very busy.
Yes, that tree could have been cut much more effeciantly.
What I saw was some one who was nervous and unsure of what he was doing.
Remember the wedge cannot lift the tree when there is a strap behind the hinge. It is a total waste of time and energy to try moving the tree forward with a wedge unless it is standing on the hinge and wedge.
Nails, it seems we have had the whole wedge conversation before. Same old tired song, different verse.
Yes, that tree could have been cut much more effeciantly.
What I saw was some one who was nervous and unsure of what he was doing.
Remember the wedge cannot lift the tree when there is a strap behind the hinge. It is a total waste of time and energy to try moving the tree forward with a wedge unless it is standing on the hinge and wedge.
Nails, it seems we have had the whole wedge conversation before. Same old tired song, different verse.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I can't watch videos as I have dial up. But, if it was about a tree going over slowly, the saying is, "It's ok, as long as it goes the right way."
