Craftsman 2.3

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I love it when something is made simple, easier to fix, thats why I bought a Harley over a Asian bike. Had to pull my engine on my Polaris, not to hard when u only have to pull the moter and leave the trans in place. Had to replace the rod bearing, was a plain auto bearing,,,, kids blew the oil cooler line night riding on the farm.
 
Well the poulan is running great but still can't get the oil pump to work correctly, blows small bubbles. I have replaced the line, cleaned the pump and made sure it was clear. Maybe a hole in the line?
 
Well the poulan is running great but still can't get the oil pump to work correctly, blows small bubbles. I have replaced the line, cleaned the pump and made sure it was clear. Maybe a hole in the line?

One thing I do on some saws is use motor oil instead of the sticky bar oil, especially on the non gear pumps. It seems to go through the line better.
 
Finally

I managed to get some other pressing projects out of the way, the Jeep is running, etc. I filled up the oil reservoir with motor oil since that is all I happen to have, and fired up the little 2.3. I love the way it runs. The best part is the oiler works now with the full tank of oil, and the new check valve. I have a Scout Troop event this weekend, I will try to haul the saws and stump out what I originally felled some months back, drop 3 more standing dead on the periphery, and cut the rest into manageable chunks. I have 4 saws up and running now, will likely take at least 3 of them up there for tryouts.

I will work on modifying the old/original check valve and when I get that to work, I'll check back in and tell everyone how it's going.
 
If you are looking for a p/c for that saw I'd look at a Poulan Pro 180 setup. It will fit the same and is a little more durable unit (plated cylinder).

Does this mean his saw does not have a plated cylinder? I thought all of the 25 and micro series saws had chrome plated cylinders. I think Acres site lists them as chrome plated aluminum.
 
Well I pulled the oil line and yep, It had a hole in it, replaced it again and now it will pump the oil like crazy. Now to put the bar and chain back on, sharpen the chain and give it a test cut,,, hope it will cut it,,lol.
 
Well I pulled the oil line and yep, It had a hole in it, replaced it again and now it will pump the oil like crazy. Now to put the bar and chain back on, sharpen the chain and give it a test cut,,, hope it will cut it,,lol.

Mine wouldn't start and run very well until I adjusted the carburetor to 1 1/4 turns out on both H and L screws.
 
Well the dang thang is leaking oil out of the case halves, if not one thang its another,,, saw must be getting old. Anyone got a complete service manual on it,, I got a somewhat piece of one someone posted to me but not a good one,, only partly basic stuff.
 
Good to hear it's up and running. Did you put the case halfs back together with a gasket, or with Threebond/equivalent. Oiler working as well?
 
Well I'm putting of pulling it apart unless it get worse, oil pump working great. I still have to take the oil cap off,, oil more than just the chain if ya don't,,lol. If I do pull it apart, I will use sealant we use at work for sealing up engine parts. G.M. Engine Sealant p.#- 88861417, this stuff is great. After it cures out you can take the bolts out and probley run it. It's that good of a sealer.
 
I may have one on my pc at home, will have to check. I thought our thread was dead.:)

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Yes it's old, but I am helping a friend get his sears saw going. I got the thing running, but the chain oilier is not working. Never had to fix an oilier before so I don't know where to start. I'm also having trouble getting a model number for it as it does not have one on it. There may have been a sticker with the information, but it is gone now.
I have looked at sears model 358350870 which is close but not correct. This saw has the fuel tank as part of the handle.

Richard
 
Have you removed the check valve and tested it? We should had some pictures in this thread and how to test it. That the most problem you have with these saws is the check valve, which is NLA.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
 
Have you removed the check valve and tested it? We should had some pictures in this thread and how to test it. That the most problem you have with these saws is the check valve, which is NLA.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
If I knew where it is and how to get to it, I can.

Richard
 

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