Craftsman 2.3

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That's a different breed, thought you had a top handle 2300. Top handle has a big shinny slotted plug near the chain clutch. That's the check valve.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
 
Go to post 81 and start from there and you will see what I mean.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(

OK - great - thanks for the tip about looking back at the older post. Saw the photo of the screw in check valve and that is exactly the same as on the sears saw. I checked the oil pick-up valve part that is held in with two screws. Cleaned it up and checked the operation of the check valve in it. The valve appears to work and the tubing looks to be in good shape. So now will get the clutch off and check out the valve behind it.

Thanks again - Richard
 
No problem, hopefully I will be able to send the manual that someone sent me tomorrow. I'm hoping to pickup another top handle model soon with case.:)

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
 
check your email Jondoe
Well I removed the check valve behind the clutch and tested it for operation. Used a hand vacuum pump to check it. As far as I could tell it is working fine. Put it back in, put the clutch back on and hand tightened it as I read somewhere and left the chain and bar off. I wanted to see oil coming out! Started the engine the engine, let it idle a bit, then reved it up a few times and the clutch departed the engine and parts went flying everywhere. This was a bad idea. Leave the clutch off! I did manage to find all the parts, had fun getting the center piece back into place as the spring wanted to keep the weights together.

Unfortunately, no oil appeared at the output tubing. I checked both check valves again for proper operation and they look good. So I am still at a loss on this.

Richard
 
Well I removed the check valve behind the clutch and tested it for operation. Used a hand vacuum pump to check it. As far as I could tell it is working fine. Put it back in, put the clutch back on and hand tightened it as I read somewhere and left the chain and bar off. I wanted to see oil coming out! Started the engine the engine, let it idle a bit, then reved it up a few times and the clutch departed the engine and parts went flying everywhere. This was a bad idea. Leave the clutch off! I did manage to find all the parts, had fun getting the center piece back into place as the spring wanted to keep the weights together.

Unfortunately, no oil appeared at the output tubing. I checked both check valves again for proper operation and they look good. So I am still at a loss on this.

Richard



have you checked the oil line ? drain all the oil and check it.... i would replace it and put a new foam filter in it..... if that does not fix it i would say its the check valve..........
 
have you checked the oil line ? drain all the oil and check it.... i would replace it and put a new foam filter in it..... if that does not fix it i would say its the check valve..........

Well worked on the "thing" again this afternoon. Noticed that there was some oil and bubbles coming up around the bolt that holds the bar. So I thought, this should not happen, so I took out the bolt, cleaned it up and put so Teflon sealant tape on it and put it back in. Started that thing up again and presto, oil coming out of the oilier tube !

I had noticed the bubbling around the bolt earlier but didn't think it would make a difference. But apparently it leaked enough pressure so the oil did not want to come out through the tube. So it looks like a go. I have to put the bar and chain on and try it for real, but I feel that it will work.

I want to thank those who helped with suggestions and ideas.

Richard
 
Well worked on the "thing" again this afternoon. Noticed that there was some oil and bubbles coming up around the bolt that holds the bar. So I thought, this should not happen, so I took out the bolt, cleaned it up and put so Teflon sealant tape on it and put it back in. Started that thing up again and presto, oil coming out of the oilier tube !

I had noticed the bubbling around the bolt earlier but didn't think it would make a difference. But apparently it leaked enough pressure so the oil did not want to come out through the tube. So it looks like a go. I have to put the bar and chain on and try it for real, but I feel that it will work.

I want to thank those who helped with suggestions and ideas.

Richard
 
i would replace that oil line and the foam filter.... i do it on all mine.....its probably time to replace it..... everyone i have the line broke easy when i tugged on them and so far only one did the foam filter in the meter valve/oil pump not disintegrate when i pulled it out....or you could just run it.... good luck great lil saws....
 
Just remember, these Lil saws oiler work off crank case pressure, can't have any leaks. Only the vent at the cotter pin so it doesn't over pressurize. That too should be nice and clean.


Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
 
If I remember, that was a link to crusty AS member Fossil’s rebuild of the micro series oiler valve assembly, using a common 530026119 duckbill valve. They’re easy to rebuild, but the little screen reattachment option is up to you.

Try doing a search on “poulan duckbill” by member “Fossil”.

There is also a member @Todd Loosli, on the Poulan Sticky thread that made/machined & sold new replacement assemblies.
 
If I remember, that was a link to crusty AS member Fossil’s rebuild of the micro series oiler valve assembly, using a common 530026119 duckbill valve. They’re easy to rebuild, but the little screen reattachment option is up to you.

Try doing a search on “poulan duckbill” by member “Fossil”.

There is also a member @Todd Loosli, on the Poulan Sticky thread that made/machined & sold new replacement assemblies.
Thank u. Do u know about these saws? Im trying to understand how this system works and I seem to be misunderstanding or maybe my brain is just not advanced enough to comprehend lol but I took the entire saw apart trying to find the problem and understand how it works and I accomplished neither haha. So far this is where I'm at. There is a port with a screen over it in the bottom of the crank case. That had some debris built up on it I blew it out. There is that one way valve that screws into the side of the saw it seems to be functioning properly I can pull air thru it but not push air back thru (or maybe it was the other way around but it only goes one way). Then there's the sponge thing that soaks up the oil and that's another one way that's also working properly and I put a new line going to the oiler hole. Put it back together still doesn't work. I'm not certain cuz it's not like freight train smoking like a pl55a I had that was sucking bar oil into the cylinder, but it does seem to be smoking a lot and it's not oiling at all so I believe it is probably getting at least a little bit of bar oil in the cylinder. But what I can't understand is if that one way is screwed into the saw and the other end is just sitting inside the bar oil resivoir, how could that possibly keep the bar oil out of the cylinder? I wish I would have inspected it better while I had it apart but I saw the junk built up on the screen and thought aha! Finally found the problem! Put it back together and nope. But that screen in the crankcase that's just a screen right? There's no mechanism there? What else could possibly keep the oil tank from being pressurized?
 
What are the chances that the pressure is leaking out around that weird pin sitting in the hole next to the oiler for no apparent reason?
 
Yes, I understand how it should operate. Some pressure does escape there around the cotter vent pin, but not enough to keep from pumping oil out at the bar pad. The duckbill keeps oil from flowing back.

Suggest going to “The beg for manuals” sticky thread & ask Mr. Ray Benson for a Poulan micro service manual.

Then start your new Poulan micro questions with saw model number/photo in the “Nik’s Poulan Thread” sticky thread.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/niks-poulan-thread.98495/
Basic pressurized oil tank systems use positive crankcase pressure through a check valve, then delivers oil via an in-tank hose connected to the bar pad. Run test it with the bar removed, the fill cap tight, and it still may take a few minutes for the oil to start flowing.

The rubber parts, being the in-tank hose, oil fill cap seal & duckbill valve, will fail over 30 years time. Variables like oil viscosity, temp, tank air leaks, RPM will affect the oil flow amount.

Use a 6# pressure test supply & gauge, & then soap bubbles to leak test the fill cap, bar stud & valve/pump assemblies’ to crankcase paper gaskets.
 

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