oldirty
Addicted to ArboristSite
Although I would assume its going to hinder you making a cut really low to the ground? Is there more?
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kinda hard to describe.... but say you blocking down wood. you make your face cut and on the angle cut because of the half wrap you half to reposition to comfortably make the cut. so it goes something like a quick backbar flat cut and than a quick saw flip and then cut the angle without moving. bang, a perfect notch without moving too much. with the full wrap you can stay right where you are on that angle cut because the extra bar and easily cut.
or say you out on a limb and you reaching to make a cut because of that wrap you can cut from the clutch side and do it without having to change your positioning. or if you on the ground and you know the once the wood is cut it'll go somewhere and angrily. the half wrap is going to force you to cut from one side of the saw and that side could be the danger side.... instead you get to cut on the clutch side and be able to be not in the bite so to speak.
regarding the flush stump cut, yeah you do lose some ability to get real low but i hate real low cut into the stump because that is where all the crap is that'll dull a chain. one way i try to get low is to find the lowest part of the stump and put the saw tip there. that way once the cut is made its the contour of the ground that dictates stump height. totally flat surface and sure there'll be a 3 or 4 inch high stump and if thats the case i hope the salesman sold the stumps! but i look at that as NMP. not my problem.
do me a favor reg, and just give it a shot. i promise you that climbing with a full wrap opens up a whole new set of cuts for in the tree. i won't climb with out one now.... unless i have to that is (marquis's 395xp has a half wrap as does my ms660) but my climbing saw does! (371xp personal and 372xpw for the company saw)