CS Milling 101, Hints tips and tricks

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I have read Through these 14 pages (More than once) and don't remember any discussion on using safety chain.
Safety chain is a chain primarily designed to reduce kickback but as kickback is not really an issue in a CSM there's no need for it. However I ended up with a roll of Lopro safety chain and have been using it on my 441 and small alskan. I through it might hamper sawdust ejection but provided the chains is well set up and sharpened, in the harder woods I cut it doesn't seem to slow it down at all.
 
Safety chain is a chain primarily designed to reduce kickback but as kickback is not really an issue in a CSM there's no need for it. However I ended up with a roll of Lopro safety chain and have been using it on my 441 and small alskan. I through it might hamper sawdust ejection but provided the chains is well set up and sharpened, in the harder woods I cut it doesn't seem to slow it down at all.
Thanks I was hoping you would say something like that
I will Try the 13/64 file in a 3/16" file guide/plate...Unless you suggest differently
 
I made a jig up using a small grinder, a drill press & a vice in order make my own Granberg style chain... I initially used anti kickback chain for that & found the same setup to work very well for removing the safety bumpers
 
Thanks I was hoping you would say something like that
I will Try the 13/64 file in a 3/16" file guide/plate...Unless you suggest differently
Just bear in mind my 441 only has a 25" bar - for bars significantly longer that this sawdust ejection might be more problematic.
 
Just bear in mind my 441 only has a 25" bar - for bars significantly longer that this sawdust ejection might be more problematic.
I will be starting out with a 24" or 36" 3/8" .063 Ripping carlton. later I want to use the LP Oregon and H45 Husqvarna and try as you suggest to convert it to 10 deg..
 
I made a jig up using a small grinder, a drill press & a vice in order make my own Granberg style chain... I initially used anti kickback chain for that & found the same setup to work very well for removing the safety bumpers
I know it isn't fair to ask for a picture 'Cuz I am not able to master my phone to computer and my sister says something is wrong with it so . I do like the concept you present.
 
Railomatic's good stuff!

I don't know what happened to Railomatic who was one of the most innovative CS mill designers to post on AS. He posted a lot of photos of his mills back in 2007/8 mainly linked to a photobucket account which has also disappeared but some of his posts did include photos posted direct to AS.

I thought I would repost some of his posts here including his photos here because they really deserve to be seen, especially by newbies and folks looking for interesting CS mill designs and you may also see where I got several ideas for my mills from. You will also see the outstanding quality of finish that he was able to fabricate.


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More in the next post
why aint i able to see the pics?
 
why aint i able to see the pics?
Pics were lost back in 2012 during a forum upgrade - something about image address mapping?
About 1000 of my pictures were lost but I've been given special permission to go back and reinsert many of them them (takes a long time finding sorting and inserting them in the right order)
The same thing happened to many other forums around the world. On an Aussie wood workers forums I lost over 2000 pictures. Have reinserted about 500 of those as well,
 
Pics were lost back in 2012 during a forum upgrade - something about image address mapping?
About 1000 of my pictures were lost but I've been given special permission to go back and reinsert many of them them (takes a long time finding sorting and inserting them in the right order)
The same thing happened to other forums around teh world. On an Aussie wood workers forums I lost over 2000 pictures. Have reinserted about 500 of those as well,
gotta love technology LOL
 
Pics were lost back in 2012 during a forum upgrade - something about image address mapping?
About 1000 of my pictures were lost but I've been given special permission to go back and reinsert many of them them (takes a long time finding sorting and inserting them in the right order)
The same thing happened to other forums around teh world. On an Aussie wood workers forums I lost over 2000 pictures. Have reinserted about 500 of those as well,
Your efforts are APPRECIATED. THANK YOU
 
Pics were lost back in 2012 during a forum upgrade - something about image address mapping?
About 1000 of my pictures were lost but I've been given special permission to go back and reinsert many of them them (takes a long time finding sorting and inserting them in the right order)
The same thing happened to other forums around teh world. On an Aussie wood workers forums I lost over 2000 pictures. Have reinserted about 500 of those as well,
1651584784828.png

Just curious why you milled this log? Looks like a lot of wind shake going on and that it would fall apart once milled?
 
View attachment 985691

Just curious why you milled this log? Looks like a lot of wind shake going on and that it would fall apart once milled?
Correct,
The log is a Marri ( Aussie blood wood) and useless for anything structural which is why old time millers didn't touch them and there are still many left especially on farms and ranches.
twins.jpg
Not only shake but fist size pockets of blood red gum/resin as well
Marrislab.jpg
Despite these issues the timber has recently become fashionable even prized for use in furniture making.
From memory I only got about half a dozen what I would call decent slabs out of that log but was able to cut out the major cracks and gum pockets and got many smaller useful pieces from the rest - hard work.

Not all Marri is like this - younger/smaller trees can have solid wood in them some with real nice grain.
fiddle.jpg

I used some of the wood from that log to make this wool drum carding machine for my wife.
I did all the stainless stee metal work as well.
Complete2.JPG
 
Correct,
The log is a Marri ( Aussie blood wood) and useless for anything structural which is why old time millers didn't touch them and there are still many left especially on farms and ranches.
View attachment 985759
Not only shake but fist size pockets of blood red gum/resin as well
View attachment 985758
Despite these issues the timber has recently become fashionable even prized for use in furniture making.
From memory I only got about half a dozen what I would call decent slabs out of that log but was able to cut out the major cracks and gum pockets and got many smaller useful pieces from the rest - hard work.

Not all Marri is like this - younger/smaller trees can have solid wood in them some with real nice grain.
View attachment 985760

I used some of the wood from that log to make this wool drum carding machine for my wife.
I did all the stainless stee metal work as well.
View attachment 985762
Beautiful wood. Why don't you just send me a couple slabs? I could use it :laugh: . You didn't make the drums, just the pulleys/shafts? Which is still amazing.
 
Beautiful wood. Why don't you just send me a couple slabs? I could use it :laugh: . You didn't make the drums, just the pulleys/shafts? Which is still amazing.
The only wood./metal things I didn't fabricate on the carding machine was the short piece of all-thread SS rod used in the belt tensioner, and the fixings. All the other metal bits, pulleys, knobs, brackets, etc and all the wooden bits were done in my home shop. The wire carding cloth covering the drums was an expensive, purchase, ~US$100. A carding machine likes this costs between $500 and $700 but even the most expensive ones won't be as nice as this one. I have though about motorising it but so far my wife's says it works fine manually.

Here is a photo of the other side.
Pfinished2.JPG

I really like doing the metal work especially if it involves brass or stainless steel, so I look for excuses to do mixed wood/metal projects. My latest is this craft/drawing bench for my grandson. It uses M8 pull thru bolts and shop made barrel nuts made out of 20mm stainless.
compframe.jpg
For the adjustable legs I was using conventional stainless nuts a bolts but the standard nuts looked ordinary so I turned up stainless round nuts with slotted heads.
ROUNDSLOTTEDNUTS2.jpg
 
notice I had to put a counter weight on the nose end. is that because of my set up @BobL ?
I ruined a nice 24Ft slab of Pine that maxed out my 60" mill because I didn't realize the nose end was lifting up.
 
I have yet to do any CSMilling but am Seriously Lurking here for information (AND There is a LOT of it)
I Read to Not drive the wedges as it can lift the slab/board and influence the cut. POST 185 by Hurchalla
Is The chain sharpened evenly ( I'm sure it is but I have to mentally check it off)
Is your winch line somewhat level/parallel with the kerf/cut line or is it pulling down (influencing) on the front of mill rig and possibly lifting on back of mill rig??
What kind of winch line are you using? (Fishing for Information)
The winch is what I Am looking at as your nose issue
I am looking for info as I am working towards cutting a Large Long Burr Oak but it will have to wait until I get some experience.
Thanks for posting the Video and nose counterweight issue/concept. Food for thought as a preventative practice
 

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