The pictures disappeared when the Arboristsite was hacked, late last year, wasn't it? Yes. a lot of great information disappeared.
No the site got attacked and held for ransom so the pic files were all stolenWhat happened to all the photo's towards the begin of this topic?
I suspect an evil conspiracy of a company wanting to copy Bob's designs.......
Scott (a lot of great info disappeared) B
Thought I'd add to this thread and reiterate - keep increasing your knowledge of chain sharpening - it is everything.
Also now there are lots more people using winching kits. I'd stopped chainsaw milling in bulk a coupe of years ago - this winching kit takes a huge 80% strain off the operator and once used you would never go back again to pushing a mill. It's not a problem now to be milling most of the day.
Now THAT'S my kind if milling! That's impressive. Work smarter, not harder. Man I have a lot to learn. LolIf the chains is truly sharp even at shallow log angles there should be no need for even a winch.
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CSMs don't cut at max RPM anyway so knocking a few hundred RPM off the top makes little difference to cutting speed.The tacho on my mill showst the typical RPMs for the 880 while cutting are around 8k for bigger/harder wood and 9-10 k for smaller softer wood.How about engine tuning? I have mine set slightly rich. Will a slight drop of rpm slow mill speed much?
Top platte filing angle (TPFA) makes little difference to cutting speed. The higher the TPFA the easier it is for the chain to cut end grain but this is negated by the cutters taking slightly more of a sideways dive into the wood and making a slightly bigger kerf.I plane my lumber after drying, so have been thinking of a semi skip chain maybe semi chisel. Hoping semi chisel won't dull as quick as full chisel? If someone is looking for speed would you still file to 10 degrees?
15, 10, 5 or zero, I do not recall which, but know the Woodwright shows the different cants on a hand-plane/ molding plane, some square, some angled, and explains why/ which works better with different types of wood. I believe the wood type determines whether 0 or 15-degree is better. Now (0-15) versus (25-30) is a different story and I believe the (0-15) will be smoother, which is easier on chain & saw (I.e. less-washboard= less future planing).How about engine tuning? I have mine set slightly rich. Will a slight drop of rpm slow mill speed much? I plane my lumber after drying, so have been thinking of a semi skip chain maybe semi chisel. Hoping semi chisel won't dull as quick as full chisel? If someone is looking for speed would you still file to 10 degrees?
15, 10, 5 or zero, I do not recall which, but know the Woodwright shows the different cants on a hand-plane/ molding plane, some square, some angled, and explains why/ which works better with different types of wood. I believe the wood type determines whether 0 or 15-degree is better. Now (0-15) versus (25-30) is a different story and I believe the (0-15) will be smoother, which is easier on chain & saw (I.e. less-washboard= less future planing).
This is a great idea easy and readily available materialsA range of setups
Basic setup - sorry if I keep posting this one but it's the clearest picture I have.
Unistrut log rails
View attachment 325837
Another basic setup using a ladder as log rails.
View attachment 325838
Boomerang shaped log
View attachment 325839
View attachment 325840
Another tricky to start log
View attachment 325841
Small mill with Mac 10-10
View attachment 325842
Serious sloped milling - mill went down by itself!
View attachment 325843
16ft cedar
View attachment 325844
Enough?
A range of setups
Basic setup - sorry if I keep posting this one but it's the clearest picture I have.
Unistrut log rails
View attachment 325837
Another basic setup using a ladder as log rails.
View attachment 325838
Boomerang shaped log
View attachment 325839
View attachment 325840
Another tricky to start log
View attachment 325841
Small mill with Mac 10-10
View attachment 325842
Serious sloped milling - mill went down by itself!
View attachment 325843
16ft cedar
View attachment 325844
Enough?
thanks for the ideas how do you have your end stands attached to the uni strutsA range of setups
Basic setup - sorry if I keep posting this one but it's the clearest picture I have.
Unistrut log rails
View attachment 325837
Another basic setup using a ladder as log rails.
View attachment 325838
Boomerang shaped log
View attachment 325839
View attachment 325840
Another tricky to start log
View attachment 325841
Small mill with Mac 10-10
View attachment 325842
Serious sloped milling - mill went down by itself!
View attachment 325843
16ft cedar
View attachment 325844
Enough?
Check out the first page of this thread - towards the bottom of the page.thanks for the ideas how do you have your end stands attached to the uni struts
That was a great read. Very good advice.My tips for Alaskan style milling
1) Clean the log of as much grit and bark as you can and clear sufficient working space around the log.
2) if at all possible, get the log up off the ground onto gluts or sawhorses so you are milling in as standing a position as possible. You should not have to bend over significantly or mill on your knees.
3) place the log on a slope so that you are milling downhill and gravity aids the cutting process
4) start with a freshly sharpened chain with rakers set correctly and don't let the chain go blunt. Stop and sharpen or change chains often.
5) add extra handles to the mill or wrap handle on the saw so your arms are not spread apart. This allows you to comfortably lean on the mill with straighten arms. The more handles you have, The more variations in arm and standing position you can use which helps relieve fatigue. Add anti vibe grips to handles.
6) If you are milling over about 24" in width consider adding an auxiliary oiler to the outboard end of the bar to protect the bar and chain.
7) add rollers or wheels to the inboard side of the mill that makes contact with the log so the mill does not constantly jam up against the side of the log
8) use log rails that are longer than the log so that the mill can perch on the end of the log while the saw is being started
9) on really hard wood, if the log is partially dry, remove the first 6" or so of the starting end of the log, so you are not cutting into dead dry wood where you lose 90% of the chain sharpness.
10) when finishing a cut, before stopping the engine let it idle for 30 seconds or so, so it can cool down a bit .
11) orient the milling so the saw is downwind of the operator to reduce exposure to exhaust and sawdust.
12) stop to admire and chimp the wood grain often - remember you will never see it looking so vivid and natural again, EVER!
Things to watch out for
a) the CS bar and the CS milling rails not being parallel to each other across the mill. This will cause the mill to rise or more likely dive making it harder and harder to cut. This can be cause by poor construction or dropping or damaging a mill.
b) loose nuts/bolts/bits on the saw and mill. If they fall they are dangerous if they hit the chain and you may never see them again amongst the piles of sawdust generated by milling. Check all fasteners and use Loctite where appropriate.
c) loose mill/bar bolts. If you forget, the chain could be toast in fractions of a second.
d) PPE. High quality hearing protection is even more essential than regular sawing because of the prolonged exposure. Consider using 30dB+ muffs.
e) pushing too hard. If you have to push hard, something is not right usually its just 4) especially the rakers not set properly but occasionally its a)
That will do for now!
Cheers
Thought I'd add to this thread and reiterate - keep increasing your knowledge of chain sharpening - it is everything.
Also now there are lots more people using winching kits. I'd stopped chainsaw milling in bulk a coupe of years ago - this winching kit takes a huge 80% strain off the operator and once used you would never go back again to pushing a mill. It's not a problem now to be milling most of the day.
Pull start cord stretches and evens the pull. Easy to control feed speed.
i'm just starting to get into research on the granberg mkIII (I think) can this winch be added to that mill? are you guys building your own winch or buy accessory/
anyone know of some good how to get started videos on youtube or such?
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