CS Milling 101, Hints tips and tricks

[BobL]

Raker guide plates are basically useless at accurately setting the RA

Can anyone help me out by explaining how I would go about finding the RA on the chain, and how to actually set the right depth/angle, tools & techniques used etc.. All I got right now is the standard flat file and a guide plate for doing the rakers.

Have a look at this thread http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/
The method of setting the RA to better suit the extent of cutter wear is called "Progressive raker depth setting"

The discussion in that thread starts by referring to something called an "FOP".
FOP is a Carlton "File=O=Plate" which is a raker angle setting jig which better than the flat guide plates but still does not allow a sharpener to set the RA to the angle that suits their setup.
BUT Read on through the thread and you will see how I go about progressive raker depth setting in great detail.
Post 67 has a link to a video of the process.

Just to be clear I don't set the RAs exactly every time I touch the rakers as that would take too long.
I usually set the RA after a long milling day or couple of days.
In the field I give the rakers a couple of swipes after every 3-4 cutter touch ups.

BTW there are flat Oregon Raker guides that range from 0.025 "in steps of 0.005" (0.025, 0.030, 0.035" etc) to to 0.070" which allow you to adjust the raker angle.
The larger sizes are for Harvester chains but they will work for regular chains as well.
However you cannot set the rakers in between these sizes using these guides.

The beauty of progressive raker depth setting is that you don't need to worry about setting the length of the cutters alike because it's really about getting the RA the same. Not that I'm that exact about it.
If my RAs are within 0.5º that's fine and if the odd one is even 1º over they I don't worry about it.

 

[Cedar Eater]

I just finished reading all the way through this thread and I want to thank all who have contributed, especially BobL. This is my first post here. I joined mainly to learn more about CSMing after I built my first CSM for a project that I'm working on. My mill worked well, but I learned a lot about other things, like progressive raker angle filing, drilling through the nose sprocket, and ripping chain.

 

[diesel&coffee]

Mr. Bob...

Long time no log in here. It looks like all your pic on milling rig/jigs for chainsaws are no longer around?? Is this the case?

Your links/threads are there - but no pix ?

Insert: I take that back ( the 880, 076 an 660 have no images )

All the best

 

[BobL]

Mr. Bob...
Long time no log in here. It looks like all your pic on milling rig/jigs for chainsaws are no longer around?? Is this the case?
Your links/threads are there - but no pix ?
Insert: I take that back ( the 880, 076 an 660 have no images )
All the best

AS lost heaps of pics a couple of years back - I managed to insert a few pics but there is far too many to insert all of them. I though I was good because I had the same pics on a Aussie forum but a few weeks ago the same thing happened on that forum. I thought the site got hacked but apparently it's it was cause by forum software update that screwed all the image links.

If you want specific photos I can repost a few for you in the main forum.

 

[Hoodiegadoo]

Couple pictures of my mills in action.

 

[SeMoTony]

If the chains is truly sharp even at shallow log angles there should be no need for even a winch.
View attachment 348218

Followed this idea and other shared experiences of Bobl and my milling got better.Didn't see way to tilt stump in avatar tho ;-)

 

[peter92]

Im really learning heaps here guys but can some one explain how to start milling the log please , pic 145 , how to set up and every thing after that
Ive never done it before
Peter

 

[BobL]

Im really learning heaps here guys but can some one explain how to start milling the log please , pic 145 , how to set up and every thing after that

Look at post number 12 in this thread for some examples of starting setup

 

[peter92]

Look at post number 12 in this thread for some examples of starting setup

Thanks Bob , must of mist that or didnt take it in when reading it all , have a merry christmas

 

[peter92]

Thanks Bob , must of mist that or didnt take it in when reading it all , have a merry christmas

Oh right , so it all starts with the rails on and then they can be taken off
Now about chains
Ive been advised to use Skip chain for milling , is this the way to go

 

[BobL]

. . . so it all starts with the rails on and then they can be taken off

yep - they are basically called log rails. These can be a ladder, a custom made frame or for narrower logs even a board tek screws to the log can be good enough.
Personally I like my adjustable purposed built log rails but here I'm just using a deck board made out of plastic milk bottles.
On bigger logs I prefer to use the log rails for every cut. Doing this has many advantages
- corrections to any twist in the cut can be made
- log rails have less contact resistance with the mill rails than chain cut wood
- the gaps between the two sets of rails enable things like wedges and a hammer to be place on top of the log for use during the cut. If no rails are used the mill rails will sweep everything off the top to the log.

Now about chains
Ive been advised to use Skip chain for milling , is this the way to go

For test runs you can just use the chain you already have.

 

[peter92]

yep - they are basically called log rails. These can be a ladder, a custom made frame or for narrower logs even a board tek screws to the log can be good enough.
Personally I like my adjustable purposed built log rails but here I'm just using a deck board made out of plastic milk bottles.
On bigger logs I prefer to use the log rails for every cut. Doing this has many advantages
- corrections to any twist in the cut can be made
- log rails have less contact resistance with the mill rails than chain cut wood
- the gaps between the two sets of rails enable things like wedges and a hammer to be place on top of the log for use during the cut. If no rails are used the mill rails will sweep everything off the top to the log.

View attachment 545630


For test runs you can just use the chain you already have.

Thanks Bob , thats very helpful
I supose we have to learn some where , will be interesting to see how i go in the new year

 

[cubevandude]

Railomatic's good stuff!

I don't know what happened to Railomatic who was one of the most innovative CS mill designers to post on AS. He posted a lot of photos of his mills back in 2007/8 mainly linked to a photobucket account which has also disappeared but some of his posts did include photos posted direct to AS.

I thought I would repost some of his posts here including his photos here because they really deserve to be seen, especially by newbies and folks looking for interesting CS mill designs and you may also see where I got several ideas for my mills from. You will also see the outstanding quality of finish that he was able to fabricate.

More in the next post

Is there any chance the pictures of Railomatic's CS Mill can be reuploaded by someone?

 

[BobL]

images got lost like everyone else in 2010, and for while his photo bucket account was working and I linked to some of his photos but that now too has died.
You could try PMing him

 

[Thefishguy77]

Great sticky. Going to have to read it again and again. Have a few large chunks of maple down I need to measure the widest part of. Want to do live edge table slabs.

Think I will be heading to a local saw shop to have them help me get setup with a 40" ish bar. To big for the saws power, CS6700, but I will just go slow and probably use a winch setup to reduce fatigue. I am sure I will have many many questions. But this thread answered so many.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skindaddy]

is there a trick to keeping the bark on a live edge plank? prob tree has to be alive when cut down too.

 

[BobL]

Why do you want to keep it on? Its just a hideaway place for bugs, pests and fungi. Inside a house as it slowly disintegrates it makes a mess.
I don't know about your woods but it just doesn't stay on on any of the trees I've milled.

 

[skindaddy]

i just assumed it was suppose to stay on, ive seen some table that still had it on. thanks for clearing that up.
another subject bobl just by chance what flat files do you prefer to use?

 

[BobL]

i just assumed it was suppose to stay on, ive seen some table that still had it on. thanks for clearing that up.

I have heard of the bark being glued back on after it has fallen off.

another subject bobl just by chance what flat files do you prefer to use?

I'm not that fussy, currently I'm using a couple of Pferd but have used Vallorbe and Nicolson

 

[Cabin by the Creek]

In my field kit is always spare nuts and bolts for the mill and saw. Loosing them ends the day quick. Also
Compressed air can (like you use on computers) to blow out filter
level, square,
tarp I lay down (when I remember) makes dust collection a lot easier
log dogs
jack
peavey
stickers