Cut-off saws

[Four Paws]

Although it is a SLIGHT bit off topic, many chainsaws are similar to their cut-off saw counter parts. I just wondered if there are any construction or concrete guys in here? If so, or if any of you can lend a hand, please speak up. I bought a cut-off saw the other day - has an abrasive wheel on it now, for cutting steel, rebar, etc. I want to pick up a diamond blade for it. Any advice as to what type of blade I should look at buying - pros or cons to certain brands - certain features I need to look for? I want something that will last, but I am not a pro - just a recreational handy man that likes tools! I probably won't use this much, but I will use it to cut seams in a few concrete projects I have coming up!

-Josh

 

[superwizz]

all i know is that a good diamond blade is not cheap. i usually use the diamond blade on concrete and asphalt and use friction blades on steel. I get mine from a local epuipment place jc smith i do not think they are a chain of stores

 

[THALL10326]

Although it is a SLIGHT bit off topic, many chainsaws are similar to their cut-off saw counter parts. I just wondered if there are any construction or concrete guys in here? If so, or if any of you can lend a hand, please speak up. I bought a cut-off saw the other day - has an abrasive wheel on it now, for cutting steel, rebar, etc. I want to pick up a diamond blade for it. Any advice as to what type of blade I should look at buying - pros or cons to certain brands - certain features I need to look for? I want something that will last, but I am not a pro - just a recreational handy man that likes tools! I probably won't use this much, but I will use it to cut seams in a few concrete projects I have coming up!

-Josh

There are many different grades of diamond blades for concrete use. The better quailty the diamonds the more the blade cost. Thats why some cost $85.00 and some cost $400.00. Diamond blades unlike the machines are more on the tad of you get what you pay for. For lite use the cheap blades will work fine but won't last nearly as long as a high end blade. For hard use and constant use the pro's grab the quality blade and don't think twice about the price....

 

[CaseyForrest]

While I realize a circular saw isnt a cut-off saw, I have had very good luck with the Diamond blades that can be had at HD or Lowes. Im not saying you can pick up a diamond cut-off blade there, but for howeowner use, I would think you wouldnt need to spend a butt load of money. Try your local rental yard, they sell what they rent and you can usually buy diamond blades there, probably even pick up a used one cheap!!

 

[Urbicide]

Hi Four Paws. I've got a Makita DPC 7301. There sure are alot of choices to be had. You can get very specific as to what you are going to cut, or you can get a more general purpose blade. The specific type blades will give you longer life. The general purpose blades don't last as long. I ended up with a diamond combination blade made by Lackmond in Kennesaw GA. It can be used either wet (much preferred) or dry. It is rated as all purpose and can be used on cured concrete, green concrete,asphalt, brick, and paver. It is a model STS-5. It ran about $235.00 + tax two years ago.

 

[woodbug]

Hey I have a question and it kinda takes your question off in left field but its also about cut off saws... Is it possible to take a cut off saw and retro fit it as a chainsaw with an external oiler. The reason I ask is, a friend of mine last year bought a stihl cut off saw and an unusual attachment to make it into a portable stump grinder and trencher called the "Alpine Magnum." Just curious, I'll let others awnser your real question. Thanks!

 

[clearance]

I have used them for concrete, plastic pipe and rebar. Mostly Stihl 350s also a Husky 272. The key to these saws is to keep the air filter clean. Diamond blades are good, try one out. Finally, wear ear protection, sometimes respitory protection and always, eye protection.

 

[Dan Forsh]

If you aren't going to be using it for your living and only occasional use, I'd go for the cheaper general purpose diamond blade. I'd also use a water kit. You'll get a lot longer out of it cutting wet. and the saw's filters will thank you too.

 

[THALL10326]

Hey I have a question and it kinda takes your question off in left field but its also about cut off saws... Is it possible to take a cut off saw and retro fit it as a chainsaw with an external oiler. The reason I ask is, a friend of mine last year bought a stihl cut off saw and an unusual attachment to make it into a portable stump grinder and trencher called the "Alpine Magnum." Just curious, I'll let others awnser your real question. Thanks!

Thats a new one but I do know the fire companies buy crazy wheels for cut-off machines to saw open houses. The cheif of the local fire company showed me one of those blades not too long ago. I asked him if the machine has ever kicked back on anyone. He laffed and said no but the machine has pulled out of the hands of a few. He claims you really have to hang onto it when using carbide blades for sawing open burning houses..

 

[THALL10326]

I have used them for concrete, plastic pipe and rebar. Mostly Stihl 350s also a Husky 272. The key to these saws is to keep the air filter clean. Diamond blades are good, try one out. Finally, wear ear protection, sometimes respitory protection and always, eye protection.

Truer words were never spoken. Let the filters go and so goes the saw. I got a TS 400 in the other day with no filters in it at all. Needless to say it was junk. Conrete dust and a fast piston don't agree at all,lol...

 

[Dan Forsh]

Hey I have a question and it kinda takes your question off in left field but its also about cut off saws... Is it possible to take a cut off saw and retro fit it as a chainsaw with an external oiler. The reason I ask is, a friend of mine last year bought a stihl cut off saw and an unusual attachment to make it into a portable stump grinder and trencher called the "Alpine Magnum." Just curious, I'll let others awnser your real question. Thanks!

The TS 350 and to a slightly lesser degree the TS 360 are both based on the 08S and would need very little to covert them to a chainsaw. I have plenty 350's and a deceased 08s. I keep pondering doing it with one of them. I once saw an 08S on ebay that came with a cut off attachment

 

[Urbicide]

A respirator is a must. Forget the disposable dust masks. Silicosis is some serious stuff. It's hard to carry on in life when you can't breath anymore.

 

[TopJimmy]

Buy a turbo blade. I think the one I have been using is a core cut. Each segment on the turbo blade has high and low spots. They cut like crazy and last a long time. Just do not cut green concrete with any blade that is not designed for it, it will kill a blade fast.

Then next time I need a blade, I will look at Cat blades that the Cat Rental Stores have. I think they use a turbo blade for handheld saws. They make (or someone makes for them) a blade that we use on our walk behind saw that cuts faster and lasts longer than any other blade I have tried.

Jim

 

[Old Mac Guy]

The old Partner R12, first made in January 1962, could be configured as a cut-off saw or as a chainsaw. Partner had made the first cut-off saw in 1958 in the R11, as a fire and rescue saw. In 1963, they brought out the K12, as a pure cut-off saw. Now they've got a new model K12 just introduced this year.

You can still find R12's around here and there. Getting the whole conversion kit to change it back and forth as chainsaw/cut-off might be a little harder. For one thing, when converted to cut-off mode, you had to put the 14-story skyscraper airfilter box on it. As noted above, concrete dust inside the crankcase makes quick toast....

There's a long thread on the R12-K12 Partners in the collectors' forum.... and a bunch of pix.

 

[Four Paws]

Wow...thanks for the response guys! I'll have to do some reading up on all the different choices I have, although the general purpose blade sounds like the best deal for me. The saw I picked up is a Shindaiwa EC350. It is the identical twin to my 350 chainsaw, the only difference is the cutting attachments from the clutch drum out, and the larger air filter box. I plan on putting a wet kit on it - think I'll save some money and make my own rather than paying for the factory parts. Do the wet kits have special spray nozzles, or do they more or less just drip water out of a small diameter tube?

 

[Urbicide]

They just trickle water on the blade. There is a garden hose fitting with a valve so you can adjust the water flow. Watch out for electrical conduit in slabs. That can get real expensive to fix.

 

[TopJimmy]

Water lines also. My 6 week old son was in the hospital for a hernia operation when one of my employees called and had cut the main line in a strip mall. The building shut off did not work and the city shut off was under water. One employee was trying to shut it off and another was trying to suck of the water with a shop vac, he was losing the battle. All in a days work!
We do not use the wet kit on our handhelds very often. They are great for keeping the dust down when using indoors.

Jim

 

[crashagn]

If you aren't going to be using it for your living and only occasional use, I'd go for the cheaper general purpose diamond blade. I'd also use a water kit. You'll get a lot longer out of it cutting wet. and the saw's filters will thank you too.

for 8 years i worked on 2 concrete crews.. doing mostly flatwork. Yes.. if possible use a water adapter, not only you saw and air filter.. but also your lungs (if not wearing a mask) And also the misses if and when you forget to get all the dust off before going inside. Another thing to look for when buying the high end blades.. what are you planning on using it for? relief joints? concrete removal? if that concrete that your taken out has re-bar in it.. that'll decrease the life of that blade. Another thing .. when making cuts.. let the saw run at WOT and listen to the blade.. make sure the blade is maxing out at full rpm..your belt will thank you

 

[Four Paws]

Thanks for the replies! I picked up some parts at Home Depot for a DIY wet kit. Should be pretty nice when I am done, and at under $20, how can you go wrong? I will post pictures when I get around to finishing it up so any other cheap-o guys or do-it-yourselfers can benefit from a step-by-step pictoral guide.