cutting to the right

[zigghorton]

I have a Jonsered turbo and a non-turbo model. I try to be meticulous about care and maintainance and always try to keep the chains sharp, properly adjusted, sprokets/chain lubed, etc. However, I notice with both chain saws that when the chains start getting just a little dull, they start cutting to the right terribly. In other words, as I cut downward, the bar deviates terribly to the right as it goes down. If I try to make it cut straight down, it simply will not cut. Is this typical?

 

[Ezduzit]

Sounds like the problem I had with my first chain. You have teeth that are uneven or were sharpened to different depths I beleive. I fixed the problem by starting over with a new chain and paying the $4-5 to have someone else sharpen it. Nothing more frustrating than getting to the woods and not being able to run your saw through something!

 

[woodho]

The chain theory could be it. However, oyu might also check your bar for uneven wear and a burr. This will also cause a saw to cut to one side.

Woodho

 

[eyolf]

I am on the side of the chain thing, but a continuously mis-filed chain can wear the bar groove off-center, too.

You can have the chain-filing technique thing down pretty good, but there is still a little difference in how you attack it from each side of the saw. I see two choices; now and then take chains to the dealer to be straightened up on his grinder, or invest in a file jig. I have an old Grandberg that I like, but there are others. Aftre a while you'll get prety fast with it, but at first, take your time...the first few times, and whenever it's convenient after, clamp the saw bar in a bench vise if you can to put thgings at a comfy height, measure cutters to keep them even, and just be persnickety.

Good luck!

 

[chainsawworld]

zig,
your problem could be that the top plates of the cutters are not at the same angle on both sides of the chain. it could be that both sides of the cutters have the same angle but one side lacks points. it could be the bar is a larger gauge than the chain allow it to rock from side to side in the kerf. it could be from poor bar and chain oil allowing the chain to wear the bar improperly.
as long as you remeber the 5 parts of the cutter, their function and the proper angles, sharpening by hand is a breeze.
marty

 

[treeclimber165]

Flip your bar over whenever you break down the saw for cleaning, too. If you flip the bar and it pulls to the left instead of the right, you may need to straighten up the bar groove or buy a new bar.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Hey Zig,

Funny you should mention this problem as the same thing just happened to me. My Shindaiwa 360 was cutting to the right. I first thought it was the chain. When I took the saw apart to clean it I noticed that the first 3 inches of the bar were bent. This would explain why the saw cut good when I was in small wood, but as soon as I got into wood that was using all of the bar the saw would cut to the right and lose alot of power. I don't believe in straightening bars you'll never get them as good as new. Rich.

 

[stihltech]

bar grind

Most shops have a bar grinder to even the rails back up. This is a normal maintenance procedure. If you filed everything correctly and it cut crooked with a new chain, get the bar ground. Flipping the bar will help it to wear evenly, but it still needs the grind after a few chains.

 

[chainsawworld]

rich,
i did fail to mention your point. i guess i thought that would be easy to spot. i have noticed that novice sawyers with longer bars tend to bend the tip because when making the back cut, they stand up with the saw before the saw clears the kerf. marty

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Chainsawworld,

I bent my bar the stupid way. Sometimes I work ground for a friend who is a much better climber than I am. When we work in tight quarters we will strip a large limb clean while it hangs on a Port-a- Wrap. The Shindaiwa 360 is good for this because it is so light. I got the tip of the bar pinched from cutting the wrong way resulting in a bent tip. I learned my lesson. Rich.

 

[Weatherby]

Well this isnt the post i was looking for but it will work.

My bars are developing a U-shaped groove near the tip of the bar where the replacable sprocket tip is. Is this normal wear or am I tightening the chain a little too much? The bars are both factory Husqvarna bars, and havent even gone through one chain yet. I dont abuse them, so that shouldnt be a problem.

Whats the best way to deal with this, sand or grind the rail flat again and start over? The groove is not very deep, and the rest of the bar shows now wear.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Rob

 

[John in MA]

FWIW, it's standard practice to start a new thread when you have a new question.

 

[treeclimber165]

Weatherby-
The dip that wears in the bar just past the sprocket is caused by the inertia of the chain curving around the tip of the bar. Inertia dictates that the chain wants to keep travelling in a curve until it hits the flat part of the bar which changes it's direction of travel. Cheaper bars with softer metal will show this wear faster than higher quality bars.
I've never been enthralled with Oregon bars (also the supplier for Husky OEM bars). Flip the bar often, file the groove smooth when it gets bad and save up for a decent replacement bar. GB and Sandvik/ Windsor are supposed to be good bars. Check your local suppliers or the typical online places.

 

[glens]

Yeah, Rob, you probably should have started a new thread for this question.

I can't readily find a good reference for you just now (so you wouldn't have to take just my word for it), but it seems to me that the wear you're describing is the result of the chain being too loose and slapping the bar after coming around the sprocket.  It can also happen on the drive end of the bar.

Glen

 

[Weatherby]

Well usually everyone complains about starting new threads with questions that have already been covered, and this one pertained to bar maintainace so I stuck it here. Sorry. I usually have my chains tighter than they probably should be, so I dont think its a loose problem. Ill file them flat and keep using them. Ive got a Windser bar for it, and I believe im either going to buy a Woodsman pro for it soon. Thanks guys.

 

[Fish]

Overly loose, a worn out sprocket, insufficient oil, or all of
the above.

 

[treeclimber165]

Fish-
Too tight will cause accellerated wear just past the sprocket tip also. I was taught that the chain should be tight enough to not sag, yet loose enough so there is no added resistence when spinning the chain by hand. I tighten mine and then give it a spin by hand to make sure it isn't too tight. If there is drag then I stop and loosen it up a tad.
If you can see the hook in the drive teeth hanging below the bottom of the bar, it's too loose.

I used to wear out bars fairly quickly keeping my chain too tight.

 

[Fish]

I used to wear out bars by just being there and pissing off the
bouncers. I have always been a man who preferred things on
the tight side, but I am not a pro.

 

[glens]

Rob,

The PDF manual available at Oregon's website says (concerning the type of wear you'd described) on page 80:

X.  Such wear or chipping near the nose often accompanies heavy limbing, but can also be caused by loose chain tension.  Invert the bar on the saw periodically to reduce such wear.  On replaceable-nose bars with minor wear, install a new nose and file down the nose's rails as shown on page 75 for smooth chain flow.  If wear is extensive (on solid-nose or replaceable-nose bars), replace the bar.  This remedy applies to picture 35.

I can't envision any situation where inertia would cause something such as a saw chain to want to keep traveling in a circular path rather than straightening and going off on a tangent.  Which is what's happening to me just now...

Glen

 

[Weatherby]

Well my saws are basically used for firewood so I do end up doing alot of limbing, especially with all the ice damage. Im not worried about it, just wanted to prevent it if at all possible.