Cylinder bolt removal, 65 Husqvarna rebuild , help please.

[purellbear37]

I have a new cylinder for this saw.

The old cylinder; there are 2 horizontal bolts that come from the intake, where the carb would fasten. The new cylinder I have and all the ones I searched for do / does not have these horizontal bolts for the carb to fasten to.

I have attempted to remove one of these bolts with now luck.

What should I do?

Thanks.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Post some pics

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have a new cylinder for this saw.

The old cylinder; there are 2 horizontal bolts that come from the intake, where the carb would fasten. The new cylinder I have and all the ones I searched for do / does not have these horizontal bolts for the carb to fasten to.

I have attempted to remove one of these bolts with now luck.

What should I do?

Thanks.

Post a pic so we can see what you are dealing with, I myself have never seen bolts or studs permanently installed to a cylinder to attach the carb to the cylinder.

 

[J D]

Might be some useful info in this thread...
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/husqvarna-65-l-l65-65-differences.186256/
The IPL linked still works & may help.
Can you not just measure what the bolts should be & order something generic to replace them?

 

[Agrarian]

The old cylinder; there are 2 horizontal bolts that come from the intake, where the carb would fasten. The new cylinder I have and all the ones I searched for do / does not have these horizontal bolts for the carb to fasten to.

I have attempted to remove one of these bolts with now luck.

The correct term would be studs and I believe all 65's used them. They do unscrew. I double nut the carb end and take them off that way. Or if you don't mind buggering up the shaft, you can use vice grips.

There were a bunch of part numbers for these: 503209002, 732211401, 732211451, 204130759, 503208101, 503208004, 204130352

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Been a good long while since I have had a 65 or 77 on the bench- but still have the service manuals for them.
Yes, they are a stud not unlike some muffler exhaust studs- threaded both ends- short thread into cylinder and long thread at air filter end.
I cannot for the life of me remember the size- but 5mm X 85mm rings a bell.

Now if your old cylinder has been sitting 30 plus years with these studs never having been removed- steel studs, aluminium cylinders do not play nice together- especially if moisture has some chance to enter the equation- dissimilar metal corrosion might be holding those studs well enough to simply shear them off if you try to remove by brute force alone.
Personally I would set the cylinder up on the exhaust port so the intake studs point straight up and drizzle KROIL down the stud so it enters the threads, leave a few hours and try the double nut removal method. If they do not budge- dont force it!
You can try more KROIL or heat first the more KROIL, or get the MAP torch out and heat the aluminium where the studs thread in.

If they do break- people are selling secondhand ones if you do an internet search.

 

[purellbear37]

Thank you all for your advice, parts numbers, manuals, and suggestions.

I will keep at it with my attempts.

 

[purellbear37]

I got the studs off and put them on the new cylinder. It fired right up.
Thanks again.

 

[woojr]

I got the studs off and put them on the new cylinder. It fired right up.
Thanks again.

FYI, removing stuck studs can be done by first soaking by fluids like Kroil over night and if still stuck, put some heat on the casting with a small torch, give a few taps on the end with a hammer and use the vice grips. If still stuck, heat the casting and put ice on the stud to shrink it. Done this with old rusty engines and machines. Heat and ice can move pretty frozen threads.