Yeah at lest one with a main nozzle check valve in it. This is the first HS that I have ran into with this setup and I have done tons of them..
Jerry you will be pulling one out soon now I'm guessing. You seen that thing eating that oak! They run and pull hard.
I'm still not satisfied with this outcome, I'm waiting on the docs that Judy is sending me. I'm still kinda convinced that I was sent a faulty main nozzle but have not a known good one to compare it to.
I still think I might order one of those other nozzles that I asked about the #'s for and may put it in for peace of mind. But I still think the solder is good forever how about you?
The 925`s I have are my FIL `s , he was a feller for a large milling outfit here in Northern N.S. and all they used were Homelites. I was up to the old mill earlier this spring and picked up a dozen or so more Homie XL12`s and XLA`s but have not gotten into them yet, most just don`t have spark. There were 150 or more old Homies sitting there but most had been scavenged for parts.
I would think that if that nozzle was in the saw with no checkvalve then it would not have worked as too much fuel would just flow into the incoming airstream even at idle.
My years of working on carbs and all the info I have on them indicates that there is either a fixed jet nozzle and no H jet screw, a nozzle with a jet and a active check ball that only opens at high vacuum, or a set of adjustable needle screws for each jet.
In this case if the carb had the H needle set to where it is nearly shut off then the saw could just run on the fixed jet in the nozzle and dial in the wee bit of extra fuel needed to make it right at WOT.
The solder would be good with me as long as the adjustable needle jet can supply enough fuel to the engine for WOT operation and I am very sure you know how to tune a saw engine. If you are satisfied the carb is flowing plenty of fuel through the needle controlled jet then there is no need for that silly nozzle setup anyway.
The combination nozzle/jet is listed in the Tillotson Manual with a separate number and therefore it must be a working mechanism, Walbro carbs have a similar setup and they act the same way when they go bad. If it were me I would run the saw with the soldered nozzle for a tank or so of fuel and if it works right at WOT leave it at that, even better if you can get enough fuel flow through the carb that the engine cannot clear it from fourstroking at WOT under load then you know you are safe running it on just the adjustable needle jets. I say set it up and run it that way, I have plugged off plenty of govenor nozzles and power nozzles and run the saws setup on the adjuster needles and they have been just fine.
Pioneerguy600
