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Well? Whats wrong, Mr. Mass?

Please 'asplain!!!:blob2:

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Originally posted by MasterBlaster
So whats wrong with the picture I posted, Mike? :confused:

Nothing wrong, MB.
We're just saying that after you make the cut you are about to make in the picture, leave your climbing rope where it is, proceed to the next spot, safety in, move your rigging (if any), cut your notch,then lower your climbing rope and make the back cut.
This gives you more time with a high TIP. And because you follow ANSI, there are no additional steps.


When you going to get a real hardhat?:p
 
Yeah I openenly admitted to a single point tie in. I do use my climbing line and my lanyard. ANSI does not say to have a high TIP when makeing your notch. I am just saying what is quicker. Yeah I admit to falling twice both tree failor. Once I kick out from the tree so hard I broke the top out and where it broke was about 5 inches in diameter. The other the was a case of inclued bark, was a double leader trunk that wasn't so obvious anymore. The top of one side had I nice little Y to descend down out of after I stripped it out and halfway down it failed. Yeah I used to take a lot of chances and do trees most would turn down if they didn't have a crane just to prove I could do it. I have nothing to prove just that I can still bring home a check. ANSI doesn't pay my bills. ANSI doesn't buy me equipment. ANSI doesn't bid the jobs that are chosen I do. For me the harder I work the more energy I have at the end of the day. Not that I am not working smart. I just didn't decide one day I wanted to be a climber like alot guys here. This is something I been around all my life. When it comes to getting things done I know a way of getting them done quickly and safely for me. Just because it works for me doesn't mean it will work for you.
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
And because you follow ANSI, there are no additional steps.

ANSI says that you are to be tied in while working aloft, and that the arborist shall be available, but not used as it says available. (9.1.2-3)

It is common practive to be TIT when running a saw, so you can come down with the lanyard and rope around, and still be TIT and ANSI compliant, IMO.

SRT with a Petzel ID comes in handy when coming down and then sliding your running bowline down.
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
MB, explain which step is wasted movement.

It seems to me the exact same numbers of steps.

When you are working down using only your lanyard there is no moving the climbing line down cutting and then repelling down cutting the notch, and then bringing down the rope and cutting.

It is just notch, cut, walk down, notch, cut, walk down.
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
MB, explain which step is wasted movement.

It seems to me the exact same numbers of steps.


I step down... my lines follow beneath me... I secure my perch... I cut.

What do I want with a rope over my head? :confused:
 
Originally posted by MasterBlaster
I step down... my lines follow beneath me... I secure my perch... I cut.

What do I want with a rope over my head? :confused:

You and Gypo talk funny. What is "secure my perch"? Is that fishing talk? I like perch, it's my favorite fish.

When you step down, do both your ropes (climbing line and lanyard) follow you without geting caught up? Or do yuo unclip your lanyard to move down, then reclip to cut?
 
I just use two fliplines when working out a spar. One for moving around, 2 when cutting. One gets clipped to floating D keeping me out of the loop if a barber chair could occur. Someone posted that here a while back, maybe MM. I can climb all day on hooks, but wouldn't pass up a high tie in if a nearby tree is convenient. Unless the removal is going to take less than an hour that probably wouldn't be worth setting a rope.
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
You and Gypo talk funny. What is "secure my perch"? Is that fishing talk? I like perch, it's my favorite fish.

When you step down, do both your ropes (climbing line and lanyard) follow you without geting caught up? Or do yuo unclip your lanyard to move down, then reclip to cut?


Fishing talk... hahahaha! Thats fairly amusing.

Heres how, Mike.

With both hands on your lanyard, you use that as your PRIMARY GRIP. Your climbing line is a little looser on the snag, and falls beneath you as you ascend, blah blah blah.

You're not familiar with this basic precept???



That perch stuff WAS humorous!

Kinda...
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I still agree with MB here. Unless you guys are blocking down some big wood 36 or better with a one inch block who needs that rope over their head? The guy who uncomfortable on hooks and attatched to the tree by two D rings. I will agree it can be uncomfortable at times especially with a 66 and 44 and an020 on your belt but you suck it up and get it done. Yeah your way may be more comfortalble and relaxed but so is a comfy office job.

I think some others here may agree with me here and I don't want to sound mean at all maybe I just need to get laid. LumberJack buddy you need to ask more questions and give less advice.
 
No, that all sounds strange to me. The lower rope would immediately get snagged on the back side of the tree and without me knowing, I'd run my other rope over it and be all bumble fooked.
If I was going to do that, I'd unclip the lower line and move with one rope.
More likely, I'd unclip the lanyard, grab my climbing hitch and jump. When I dropped enough, I'd lock off my hitch, which would stop me and set my spikes. The forward momentum would send my disconnected lanyard around the trunk and if I put an eye on my D ring, I can move my hips just so the rope snap hits the D ring and makes a clank as it self connects.
Meanwhile, my other attention is on getting my saw started to get the notch cut. You know the rest.
There is a concern about working too fast because if the last hunk of spar is bouncing up from the ground at the same time this hunk is comming down, it can bounce farther than expected.
So be careful.
 
BigJohn, You must be really big to climb around with all those saws on your belt:p. Do you do that in the butterfly?
 

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