No not on the butterfly. It is possible on the austrian saddle and my modified buckingham. I only have all those saws sometimes when I get to a spar and on a crane removal. The groundies can send a saw up on a hook but I just can get them to untie one if I send it down without haveing to throw something at them.
Danger Bowline!
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MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Ah. Another good reply.
Lumberjack
Banned
I have the same problem with sending the saw down. I use a Ness work saddle for everything tho.
I keep the 200 close on the big ring (on the break away) and the 044 on a longer peice of rope so that they dont get tangled up.
Originally posted by Lumberjack
I like having my butt, I hang my 044 and my 200T off my saddle when blocking down a spar without a problem. Thats 21 pounds of powerhead alone. No suspenders needed here!
Carl, you've got to be kidding....Why two saws? Youy only cut with one at a time. Just hang one nearby the work if you want to keep it handy.
Sure, sometimes I'll leave a high tie, rap down on it, but I'll leave a long tail, so, after pie is cut, I can pull the running bowline loose and slide the line down.
For smallish wood, up to 16-20 feet long, I rarely bother with a line, just push 'er over. And with a short 8-10 footer, even if big, just make a deep pie cut, it'll fall on its own, if straight up and down, or just need a nudge.
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Lumberjack
Banned
Not for general removal/working. I do that when I am blocking down, and the wood gets bigger than I want to cut with my 200t. I call for a bigger saw, and hang the 200 up on the saddle and work with the bigger saw. It is easier for me to just hang it than to send it down.
Lord that would be a horrible time climbing with both saws
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If you are working down the spar why hang two saws on your body. I agree with Mike about working smart. This IMO is not smart. All that extra weight......why?
Lumberjack
Banned
If I am droppin logs (16'6") It only takes a little time to be back at the ground. Droppin chunks takes longer, but i really dont notice the extra weight.
If it made much diff then I would just send it down, but normally it doesnt. If i was riggin down the blocks I probably would.
If it made much diff then I would just send it down, but normally it doesnt. If i was riggin down the blocks I probably would.
I'm too lazy to pack around more than 1 saw. I'll often run my lifeline through the slacktending pulley to lower the small saw, then have the groundies pull up the bigger one.
It's good to hear the lighter saddles can carry some gear. No excuses not to get one now.
It's good to hear the lighter saddles can carry some gear. No excuses not to get one now.
the only time it makes sense to me to rappel down to my next cut on a removal is if the chunk is big enough to warrant a tag line , in that case I'll make a cut, then set the tag with a runnind bowline , then rappel down with a munter while my lanyard is still around the tree( i won't hang my life on a tag line) then i disconnect from the tag, reclip my climb line under my lanyard, hook around and cut my face, then make my back cut, groundies pull when appropriate, immediately send up other end of tag line, etc.
do i always have a good system in case of barber chair, no , but i'm trying to get my self in the habit of always having something clipped to the middle ring of my saddle. I just don't see tying a constrictor hitch around every cut for production work. as far as having a TIP to make each face cut, i think that's just an issue of personal style, When i am set up like that because i'm coming down on a tag, i personally prefer to unclip from it and have my groundie hold it clear while i make my face, likewise when i make my backcut, if it's big enough to warrant a tag line I'll probably be walking all over the place anyway, and i sure as hell wouldn't be using my TIP then, so what's a little mor walking to make the face cut?
do i always have a good system in case of barber chair, no , but i'm trying to get my self in the habit of always having something clipped to the middle ring of my saddle. I just don't see tying a constrictor hitch around every cut for production work. as far as having a TIP to make each face cut, i think that's just an issue of personal style, When i am set up like that because i'm coming down on a tag, i personally prefer to unclip from it and have my groundie hold it clear while i make my face, likewise when i make my backcut, if it's big enough to warrant a tag line I'll probably be walking all over the place anyway, and i sure as hell wouldn't be using my TIP then, so what's a little mor walking to make the face cut?
well said coydog...
It seems many of our eastern buds are a bit uncomfy on gaffs, and need some support.
The fellow who started this thread likely is not aware of the benefits for choking your lifeline...one to limit a fall in case of any slip, two, if the tree barberchairs, you'll be safe..that is if you have time to unclip your lanyard from the side D rings.
It seems many of our eastern buds are a bit uncomfy on gaffs, and need some support.
The fellow who started this thread likely is not aware of the benefits for choking your lifeline...one to limit a fall in case of any slip, two, if the tree barberchairs, you'll be safe..that is if you have time to unclip your lanyard from the side D rings.
Wow, RB 16' of stick not leaning is long enough for me to have a pull line, i only push over about body length stuff, cutting low as posssible, to get chest /strong push height at aboput C.o.B.(Center of Balance) or better for positive push. You're it with that lumber length stuff (and pix!)!
Cutting deep face undermines the C.o.B.; effectively giving (more) lean, calculating lean as line from C.o.B. to hinge. So it will tip off of you, more lean forces stronger hinge IMLHO also. And this height (16')does warrant IMLHO a rappel down that extra pull line, to work face, not body length stuff. i dont have to worry about the lumber at all so don't have to cut that long, especially meat log (26' of meat log outta my league i beleive buddy!). But i generally cut a lil'wide and race hinge before it closes shut. Saw ony has so much power, so if no side lean, i'll narrow hinge from sides, so saw can come thru as fast as possible if i choose, i can always back off the gas, but not add HP, so i lessen the fight for the saw. i find this gives me more dynamic range of adjustment to the last second. i like trying to tilt spar/top, and when i know it will pull away from me, cut it free; trying to hit that zone where the top is neither pushing back or pulling forward on my spar/seating
In block and catch(of shorter prey) on host spar i can get more pivot on the hinge, by forcing more power against hinge at it's First Flexxing; to force a super strong hinge. Thus rotate load on hinge further (if open face allows this much range of movement as the outer constraint dictated in 'machine code') before tearoff from leveraged load (increasing as it tilts towards horizontal) overcoming leveraged support of hinge; and failing in the balance. Sometimes fles it almost all the way to down verttical. Placing the line as high as possible avails to maximize leverage to this task; they can always pull easier or not at all; therefore giving as much leverage as possible gives as much dynamic power range as possible to pre-set when things are moving.
In both occasions of giving more dynamic range of control, i start at maximum leverage, and as fast a cut as possible (unless catching); calculating that empowered like that reaches out further in power/speed over top; if you choose to use those fully. Can always pull less, or back off gas to lessen; but can't always get more without pre-set. i think over the top with pull line is point of highest leverage, also gives differance making increased arc-ing direction of pull on hinge; rather than more a 'non-tumbling ' pull straighter off. i think any arc-ing induced in a solid gives more leveraged movement.
i will only set a support line tight that has 1 leg to center, be it climbing line or lanyard. Sometimes giving a roundturn on spar with lifeleine to front D's. and let lanyard hang down a lil'loose on top of some kind of natural or cut deformation/catch dawg as catch. i don't set life/lanyard below load support lines redirect, unless can be secreted underneath lean etc. from the loaded rigging line(S).
Or something like that
:alien:
Cutting deep face undermines the C.o.B.; effectively giving (more) lean, calculating lean as line from C.o.B. to hinge. So it will tip off of you, more lean forces stronger hinge IMLHO also. And this height (16')does warrant IMLHO a rappel down that extra pull line, to work face, not body length stuff. i dont have to worry about the lumber at all so don't have to cut that long, especially meat log (26' of meat log outta my league i beleive buddy!). But i generally cut a lil'wide and race hinge before it closes shut. Saw ony has so much power, so if no side lean, i'll narrow hinge from sides, so saw can come thru as fast as possible if i choose, i can always back off the gas, but not add HP, so i lessen the fight for the saw. i find this gives me more dynamic range of adjustment to the last second. i like trying to tilt spar/top, and when i know it will pull away from me, cut it free; trying to hit that zone where the top is neither pushing back or pulling forward on my spar/seating
In block and catch(of shorter prey) on host spar i can get more pivot on the hinge, by forcing more power against hinge at it's First Flexxing; to force a super strong hinge. Thus rotate load on hinge further (if open face allows this much range of movement as the outer constraint dictated in 'machine code') before tearoff from leveraged load (increasing as it tilts towards horizontal) overcoming leveraged support of hinge; and failing in the balance. Sometimes fles it almost all the way to down verttical. Placing the line as high as possible avails to maximize leverage to this task; they can always pull easier or not at all; therefore giving as much leverage as possible gives as much dynamic power range as possible to pre-set when things are moving.
In both occasions of giving more dynamic range of control, i start at maximum leverage, and as fast a cut as possible (unless catching); calculating that empowered like that reaches out further in power/speed over top; if you choose to use those fully. Can always pull less, or back off gas to lessen; but can't always get more without pre-set. i think over the top with pull line is point of highest leverage, also gives differance making increased arc-ing direction of pull on hinge; rather than more a 'non-tumbling ' pull straighter off. i think any arc-ing induced in a solid gives more leveraged movement.
i will only set a support line tight that has 1 leg to center, be it climbing line or lanyard. Sometimes giving a roundturn on spar with lifeleine to front D's. and let lanyard hang down a lil'loose on top of some kind of natural or cut deformation/catch dawg as catch. i don't set life/lanyard below load support lines redirect, unless can be secreted underneath lean etc. from the loaded rigging line(S).
Or something like that
:alien:
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
The one time that happened to me I cut my lanyard to escape it.
WHUTTARUSH!!!
Eagle1
ArboristSite Operative
good reply.
Lumberjack
Banned
That was my point for saying that.
Last week when I was blocking down, I looked down after a while and thought, "Hey, I never sent down the 200, hmmm that is a good case for light saddles on the Speedline thread." but I didnt want to raise the dead, so I waited for it to come back up.
xtremetrees
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rbtree,
Yeah Im eastern So what our trees aint as big. Dont mean I dont stand on spikes all day long and dont really mind it so much. My point in the thread was to rule out Murphy. In fact its been 8 months scence I've done any serious climbing and the skin is still flaking off my shins.
Nothing wrong with raising the dead Lumber.
Yawn.
Yeah Im eastern So what our trees aint as big. Dont mean I dont stand on spikes all day long and dont really mind it so much. My point in the thread was to rule out Murphy. In fact its been 8 months scence I've done any serious climbing and the skin is still flaking off my shins.
Nothing wrong with raising the dead Lumber.
Yawn.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Hey if you can do that Carl, you can quit this crazy treework gig!
Kneejerk Bombas
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So rb, you're moving 26 to 40 feet down at a time, and you spike the whole way?
It seems like it would be more fun to just come down your tag line, if you are using one, or on your climbing line. After all a tree that has 40 poles being cut out of it has to be pretty wide.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Ain't nothing to it.
Kneejerk Bombas
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Here's a little trick, when you're done with the 200 and pull up the 440, before you lower the rope back down, put your 200 on the same knot and send it down. No extra time or steps.
Work smart, not hard.
