Dangers of Chainsaw's Chain Creeping, Spinning or Rotation at Idle

[treemendous]

running chain close call

I was nineteen on one of my first fires. My senior guy (sortof a mentor) was cutting a route down some steep and deep west coast oldgrowth. I watched him fall and roll. Ended up in pushup position with the saw running two inches from his nose. I've learned from his mistake!

 

[Soul Assassin]

Clarification

"since when did saw between the legs constitute proper and safe starting technique?"

This was a bad red point given to me by a member. Let me 'splain, you put the saw handle (the part with the trigger and safety lever) between your legs, hold the bar with your right hand, and pull the saw over with the left. With larger saws, I start them on the ground holding them down with my foot.

I've had bad experiences with drop starting chainsaws, I don't do it now.

 

[dadouthat]

Has anyone above actually used a Stihl with the second chain brake for more than a couple of minutes?

Everyone on the forums trashes it (as unnecessary, heavy, an a sign that the user is not macho and expert enough to hold a toothbrush let alone a chain saw). At the moment it is only available on a few saws but it addresses explicitly the problem under discussion. My guess is that like the forward chain brake, it will be available on almost every size saw eventually and a company that would chose not to use it when available would be inviting a lawsuit. (I am not a lawyer!)

Even Huskys will eventually have them when the Stihl patent expires.

I have an MS 280 with it, have used it a couple of months, and like it very much. I am not a pro, but began using saws before chainbrakes were common. I cut firewood for prinicipal heat and very often am wading in snow while working. The second chain brake is a lot quicker to use and is always there. No need to flip the forward brake when taking a few steps to the next cut.

 

[DGG]

Can creeping chain happen while operator is in the tree? If yes, what are some safety tips? :rockn:

Also, what are the dangers of the chain still rotating after releasing throttle trigger? Any and all please share your advice and stories (as Clint Eastwood's movie about good, bad and the ugly)

There is only one tip for such a situation. STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING, NOW!

Get the problem with the chain saw fixed and then go back to work. I had one with a sticky throttle once. I immediately hit the power switch button and shut down the saw until I could fix the problem. Since it is a mechanical problem it can happen anywhere. In a tree you should shutdown IMMEDIATELY and descend or lower the saw to the ground for repair.

A chain saw user should always remember that a chain saw is probably the most dangerous tool ever used by the masses.

 

[SRT-Tech]

I bet Safety:newbie: would like it if all treeclimbers used saws like this:

special thanks to whoever that pic belongs to...

 

[Streyken]

The real culprit

SafetyNewbie,

What needs to be improved isn’t the equipment, or the work procedures; others have made some very good points which you don’t seem to accept, so here is the real culprit of your problem – chain oil. You see oil manufacturers have done their job too well, lowering the friction coefficient to such a point that the chain actually spins after you release the trigger! I mean, how dangerous is that! I personally carry 15 types of oil with me so that as the saw warms up, I send my saw down so my GM can put in a less efficient oil to slow the chain down. Now if you could get it mandated that the oil manufacturers must have a variable friction coefficient oil that changes with temperature and type of use so that it will not allow your chain to spin too fast, I’m sure everyone would use it, after all who likes a saw that cuts fast?

SRT, I like it! I'm going to get one of those for a former groundie. He threw my rope into the chipper (twice) while I was up trees, broke my finger by pulling a rope he shouldn't have, jammed saws numerous times after hitting his safety pants, and a host of other things, but it must have been the equipments fault. That saw is a good start. (BTW - he didn't work for me or he would have been fired after the first day, thew a chunk of wood down a hill and knocked another groundie out - guy had zero attention.)

Sorry for the rant guys - Finished my pricing and phone calls, now I'm bored.

 

[SRT-Tech]

SafetyNewbie,

What needs to be improved isn’t the equipment, or the work procedures; others have made some very good points which you don’t seem to accept, so here is the real culprit of your problem – chain oil. You see oil manufacturers have done their job too well, lowering the friction coefficient to such a point that the chain actually spins after you release the trigger! I mean, how dangerous is that! I personally carry 15 types of oil with me so that as the saw warms up, I send my saw down so my GM can put in a less efficient oil to slow the chain down. Now if you could get it mandated that the oil manufacturers must have a variable friction coefficient oil that changes with temperature and type of use so that it will not allow your chain to spin too fast, I’m sure everyone would use it, after all who likes a saw that cuts fast?

AAAAHAHAHAHA!!!


:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Gologit]

Streyken...never apologize for a rant...especially one as funny as that. I think Safetynewbie might be gone for good. SRT and a couple of others tried to pin him down about who he was and what exactly he did and he seemed to fade away fast after that. Small loss.

 

[limbwalker54]

Wait....

Wait..so all this time I had to start the chainsaw to get the chain to spin?.....



J/K.....


Yeah, I think he's gone for good....lawyers....they never learn.

 

[Thetreewisemen]

SafetyNewbie,

What needs to be improved isn’t the equipment, or the work procedures; others have made some very good points which you don’t seem to accept, so here is the real culprit of your problem – chain oil. You see oil manufacturers have done their job too well, lowering the friction coefficient to such a point that the chain actually spins after you release the trigger! I mean, how dangerous is that! I personally carry 15 types of oil with me so that as the saw warms up, I send my saw down so my GM can put in a less efficient oil to slow the chain down. Now if you could get it mandated that the oil manufacturers must have a variable friction coefficient oil that changes with temperature and type of use so that it will not allow your chain to spin too fast, I’m sure everyone would use it, after all who likes a saw that cuts fast?

SRT, I like it! I'm going to get one of those for a former groundie. He threw my rope into the chipper (twice) while I was up trees, broke my finger by pulling a rope he shouldn't have, jammed saws numerous times after hitting his safety pants, and a host of other things, but it must have been the equipments fault. That saw is a good start. (BTW - he didn't work for me or he would have been fired after the first day, thew a chunk of wood down a hill and knocked another groundie out - guy had zero attention.)

Sorry for the rant guys - Finished my pricing and phone calls, now I'm bored.

 

[newguy18]

old injury

i had a stihl s10 i recently traded take part of my ring fingers knucle off last year. i never went to a doctor to see how serious it was because i didnt seem to have that much of an effect on my day to day activities.bill howe hukys 51 and 141 little homelite zr:spam:

 

[newguy18]

i had a stihl s10 i recently traded take part of my ring fingers knuckle off last year. i never went to a doctor to see how serious it was because i didnt seem to have that much of an effect on my day to day activities.bill howe huskys 51 and 141 little homelite zr:spam: :chainsawi tell ya this it sure hurt like the devil.