Delayed chain movement

[wdchuck]

My little Homelite XL2 is a little slow on the response. When the throttle is pressed fully it ramps up to full speed rpm's okay, but the chain doesn't start moving until about full rpm.

An old local saw guy advised to run 32:1, so that's what's in it now, can't say it's running better because of it though.
The smoking problem is gone, the duckbill in bar oil resevoir was missing, new one solved that.

Whatcha think?

Thanks.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Sounds like a clutch problem. Take the side cover off and inspect. Let us know what you find.

 

[blis]

probaply slipping or worn clutch...

 

[PES+]

Remove the clutch

Remove the clutch and clean the inside of the clutch drum with brake clean then lightly scuff the inside of the drum with fine sandpaper. Clean the outside of the spring shoes and scuff them as well. These saws do not use a separate spring and it takes time and the heat of use to get the shoes to fully engage properly. When they were new it took several tanks of gas before the engagement speed would become normal. Also this type clutch has a higher than expected engagement speed this is normal and due to the type of clutch

 

[wdchuck]

The saw cover is off, but the the clutch cover/sprocket has a ring/c-clip holding it on, any suggestions on how to get the little bugger off.?

Oh, and is this thing supposed to have an air cleaner of any sort? Just a grill there now.

 

[wdchuck]

Well after a little fidgeting, the clip is off, everything is clean, and now the scuffing.

After I get it all back together I'll let y'all know the difference.

 

[wdchuck]

Much better, that 32:1 is too rich for it though, kept wanting to stall, and smoked. That clutch needs more roughing up maybe, it worked great for a minute then started to show signs of delayed chain rotation, but now I know that's how it's supposed to work, thanks to you guys.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Justsaws]

32:1 is typical mix for those saws. Many people run 40:1. I have quite a few that were running supposedly 50:1 which should be fine but was not for these. If it is running to rich on 32:1 the problem is in the carb or spark. Should be almost smoke free. Make sure you are not over filling the oil tank.

Replace your clutch. Used but good ones usually fetch $20-30 so you might be better off to get a entire parts saw. Also check the drum for play side to side and up and down as many of the bearing/bushing are shot.

Nice little saws. People love them. Good luck.

 

[wdchuck]

Drum play was minimal, almost negligable, the needle bearings, found about them the hard way, are all there and have no play in them.

Some new plugs would be a good idea anyway, field trip to the hardware/Stihl store.

Any idea on an air intake filter? The carb is wide open now, that can't be good.

 

[Justsaws]

On some models there is a small foam filter that sits in a pan on top of the carb. The pan should have a metal grid in it to hold the foam up off the bottom. The filter looks like a green foam circle with two bites taken out of it on opposite sides. These filters are available new for around $2.00-4.00. They are also used on some homelite weed wackers.

I have only seen one screen mesh filter for that saw and was told they are no longer available.

You can very easily cut a filter out of a Briggs or Tecumseh green foam pre-filter.

Spark plug should be a Champion DJ7J, I think. Might be a DJ6J.

Those saws tend to be smoky at first start and warm up to no smoke in a minute.

If your clutch bearings look good than make sure your chain is tensioned correctly and that the bar is not worn to much. Most likely it is time for a better clutch. The chain should respond well to the throttle but many saws were run with extra dull chains and the clutches get burn out.

 

[wdchuck]

Chain is tensioned so when I pull on the bottom, three drive links are partially visible.

Put in a new sparkplug, didn't seem to change anything.

While the saw was running, turned the screws 1/2 turn each way, didn't seem to do much.

As long as I bump the throttle it'll stay running but that shouldn't be necessary, it should idle for a least a few minutes on its own. Right??

I'll have to look into a foam filter piece, the metal grid looks like a waffle pattern, 1/2" squares, no way to secure a filter though, but anything wouild be better than nothing.

Thanks for the help so far, the other XL2 titled threads are pointing towards carb kit or another kit for air leaks in the cylinder.

 

[JohnL]

carb adjustments

I guess you already know the high speed mix is not adjustable, the two screws are the idle speed and idle mix. The foam air filter just sits on top of the metal grid which is down into the filter holder a little bit, mine seems to stay put ok.

 

[wdchuck]

It's a learning process, and high time too, if I want to keep everything in top running order, probably should start compiling a list of old threads that pertain to good maintenance practices and repair/troubleshooting of my particular models, save time and redundant threads/posts.

 

[timberrat]

homelite xl

i have two of dem homies. one thing too check is the exhaust outlet. if is carboned up scrape it with a screw driver. also i may be able too give you an air filter.

 

[blis]

Chain is tensioned so when I pull on the bottom, three drive links are partially visible.

Put in a new sparkplug, didn't seem to change anything.

While the saw was running, turned the screws 1/2 turn each way, didn't seem to do much.

As long as I bump the throttle it'll stay running but that shouldn't be necessary, it should idle for a least a few minutes on its own. Right??

I'll have to look into a foam filter piece, the metal grid looks like a waffle pattern, 1/2" squares, no way to secure a filter though, but anything wouild be better than nothing.

Thanks for the help so far, the other XL2 titled threads are pointing towards carb kit or another kit for air leaks in the cylinder.

you probaply cant get it adjusted without filter since it gets way too much air atm...

 

[Justsaws]

Check your fuel filter and it is probably time for a carb kit. Pull the muffler and look for scoring and/or stuck rings.

If the bar is a sprocket tip and the chain moves freely when you pull on it then you are good to go there. If it is a hard tip, loosen it up until the chain moves freely. Also make sure the chain is not stretched. Take it off and hold it out on its flat side if it sags down to the ground like a witching stick it may be binding to much. Hold it in both hands about six links apart and pull it and push it, you are trying to feel movement in the rivets. There should be none or almost none. You are not trying to feel rotational movement but rather linear.

Does the saw run correctly without the chain on it? Starts, idles, accelerates, and comes back to idle. If not, then your are looking for engine issues.

 

[wdchuck]

The chain is relatively new, and spins fine, no issue there, just dressed the bar, everything looks/feels okay now.

When the plug was out I looked through the crankcase hole and the cylinder looked nice, of what I could see, the piston top has carbon on it.

Have run the saw only with b/c.

Would like to get the muffler off, to see the rest of the cylinder and to make sure there is no junk in the muff but it doesn't seem clear how to get it off. The cover must need more persuasion than what's been applied so far.

Will try harder, really appreciate the help.

 

[PES+]

Try this

Some of these models have two piece mufflers and if you were burning chain oil which you most likely were, the outside will need some tapping and persuasion to remove. The two piece has a screw that mounts the inside piece to the cylinder. Tap the outside corners of the muffler with the wooden handle of a hammer until you break loose the carbon and I believe you will find that the muffler is clogged with carbon. This can cause the doggy running and seeming weak clutching.

 

[wdchuck]

I'll go try it now, brb.

 

[wdchuck]

The muffler is off, didn't realize the hole in the cover was access to an Allen head screw. It was coated with junk inside but the vent holes weren't blocked, I'll clean it out.

Looked at the cylinder and piston, both look good.