Didier splitters

[gordda40]

file sent

Hello and thanks for the reply! I did not find email in my regular or spam folder. Could you possibly resend to the msn account and also send it to [email protected]. I sometimes don't seem to get emails to the msn account, even from my wife!

Dan

 

[tjstawicki]

Hi,
I was lucky enough to pick up a Didier Mfg. splitter at the end of a driveway. Motor has great compression. I'm going to pull the carburetor and flush the gas tank today, change the oil, etc, and see if it starts. Just wondering if anyone has a manual for it? It is a Didier MF50. My email is [email protected]

Thanks in advance!

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Hi,
I was lucky enough to pick up a Didier Mfg. splitter at the end of a driveway. Motor has great compression. I'm going to pull the carburetor and flush the gas tank today, change the oil, etc, and see if it starts. Just wondering if anyone has a manual for it? It is a Didier MF50. My email is [email protected]

Thanks in advance!

Great price!!! Manual on its way to you.

Shari

 

[tjstawicki]

Great price!!! Manual on its way to you.

Shari

Thank you so much!

 

[Cabinets]

I just picked up a used"Hydra Splitter". I can't seem to find a model # on it. I was told it is a 40 ton rated. The cylinder sure looks like a beast, but frankly I would be surprised. Does anyone have pics with specs or know where to get manuals? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Cabinets]

Great price!!! Manual on its way to you.

Shari

 

[ErnieG]

Hi everyone..
This is my first post on this forum and I must say there is a wealth of knowledge here !
I recently acquired a Dieder log splitter ..it's in need of some repairs. Piston seals hose replacements and the hydraulic reservoir is leaking .
I'd like to know if there's a good source for seals for the piston and maybe a replacement hydraulic reservoir?
I would also like a copy of the manual if someone could send me one .
Thanks very much for the help !
Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

Hi everyone..
This is my first post on this forum and I must say there is a wealth of knowledge here !
I recently acquired a Dieder log splitter ..it's in need of some repairs. Piston seals hose replacements and the hydraulic reservoir is leaking .
I'd like to know if there's a good source for seals for the piston and maybe a replacement hydraulic reservoir?
I would also like a copy of the manual if someone could send me one .
Thanks very much for the help !
Ernie

Hi Ernie

welcome to Arborsite.
Posts 621 , 622 have a description of the seals for the hydraulic cylinder etc and the vendors where you can purchase them (McMaster-Carr or Hercules Seals herculesus.com).
Please review those posts.

 

[ErnieG]

Hi Ernie

welcome to Arborsite.
Posts 621 , 622 have a description of the seals for the hydraulic cylinder etc and the vendors where you can purchase them (McMaster-Carr or Hercules Seals herculesus.com).
Please review those posts.

Thank you very much for the reply .
If I can ask you a few others about the seals ..from a little research I did I think my cylinder is a "H" model . Would these seals fit ..the only reason I ask is I didn't see what model you were referring to in your rebuild post . I added some pics of my cylinder..I hope it worked !
Could you explain how to remove the locking ring on the end of the cylinder also...I understand it's a real PIA .
Thanks again ...Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

Thank you very much for the reply .
If I can ask you a few others about the seals ..from a little research I did I think my cylinder is a "H" model . Would these seals fit ..the only reason I ask is I didn't see what model you were referring to in your rebuild post . I added some pics of my cylinder..I hope it worked !
Could you explain how to remove the locking ring on the end of the cylinder also...I understand it's a real PIA .
Thanks again ...Ernie

Step 1 . Remove the hydraulic pipe fittings to the hydraulic cylinder and drain out the fluid/oil.

step 2.
Look around the outside rim of the big “gland nut” in the picture for a locking screw , remove it . Then get a large pipe wrench and put it on the big hex gland nut and turn counterclockwise and remove it.

step 3
Take notes or pictures of where each seal is located.

step 4
Remove each seal and label it. Then with machinists calipers carefully measure the dimensions: thickness, diameter , cross section etc

step 5
The gland nut will have seals on the inside so it must be removed from the rod and these seals removed, carefully note the orientation of the seal (ex cup side towards inside of cylinder etc)

step 6
After all seals have been removed and measured, collect the information and compare to posts 621 622. There is no longer a cylinder seal repair kit that will have the exact seals you need. Instead, you must measure and order each one individually. Your success in this endeavor lies in your ability to measure the seals and find the match in the online catalog of the many seal vendors on internet.
Good news the seals are cheap.

 

[ErnieG]

Step 1 . Remove the hydraulic pipe fittings to the hydraulic cylinder and drain out the fluid/oil.

step 2.
Look around the outside rim of the big “gland nut” in the picture for a locking screw , remove it . Then get a large pipe wrench and put it on the big hex gland nut and turn counterclockwise and remove it.

step 3
Take notes or pictures of where each seal is located.

step 4
Remove each seal and label it. Then with machinists calipers carefully measure the dimensions: thickness, diameter , cross section etc

step 5
The gland nut will have seals on the inside so it must be removed from the rod and these seals removed, carefully note the orientation of the seal (ex cup side towards inside of cylinder etc)

step 6
After all seals have been removed and measured, collect the information and compare to posts 621 622. There is no longer a cylinder seal repair kit that will have the exact seals you need. Instead, you must measure and order each one individually. Your success in this endeavor lies in your ability to measure the seals and find the match in the online catalog of the many seal vendors on internet.
Good news the seals are cheap.

Thank you very much for the excellent description !
I have one more question/concern ..upon removal of the pressure line from the pump there where two pieces of metal laying in the pump just below the fitting. Should I be concerned about them? One piece looks like a fin of an impeller maybe and I'm not sure of the other piece .
What's your thoughts?

 

[pondnstream]

Thank you very much for the excellent description !
I have one more question/concern ..upon removal of the pressure line from the pump there where two pieces of metal laying in the pump just below the fitting. Should I be concerned about them? One piece looks like a fin of an impeller maybe and I'm not sure of the other piece .
What's your thoughts?
View attachment 872374View attachment 872375

My thoughts are

the metal parts are bad ,

something broke and there are more parts elsewhere in the system and must be cleaned out

You’ll need a new pump $120

All components (cyl, valve , tank, lines , pump) must be removed, drained and cleaned out

consider adding a filter on the return line

budget $40 seals , $120 pump, $45 filter

you can do this , be persistent

 

[ErnieG]

My thoughts are

the metal parts are bad ,

something broke and there are more parts elsewhere in the system and must be cleaned out

You’ll need a new pump $120

All components (cyl, valve , tank, lines , pump) must be removed, drained and cleaned out

consider adding a filter on the return line

budget $40 seals , $120 pump, $45 filter

you can do this , be persistent

Could you recommend a pump ?
Thanks ...Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

Could you recommend a pump ?
Thanks ...Ernie

Ernie,

1. Use your machinist calipers to measure the shaft length and diameter , also measure the mounting hole spacing.

2. post a picture of the label, it’s probably made by “Haldex” and is a “2 stage, 11 gallon per minute “

3. search the Internet for a similar replacement , you should be able to find one for $120 or a larger 16 gpm unit for $200

Did you get the gland nut off yet ?

 

[ErnieG]

Ernie,

1. Use your machinist calipers to measure the shaft length and diameter , also measure the mounting hole spacing.

2. post a picture of the label, it’s probably made by “Haldex” and is a “2 stage, 11 gallon per minute “

3. search the Internet for a similar replacement , you should be able to find one for $120 or a larger 16 gpm unit for $200

Did you get the gland nut off yet ?

Sounds good..
I didn't get to it yet ..I'm planning on doing it tonight when I get home from work . I'm going to borrow a big crescent wrench from a mechanic here at work to remove the nut .
I have all the lines removed already..I planned on replacing all of them . When I got it home and took them off I discovered the oil was like milk so I assumed it got water in it which isn't good either .
This things turning into a full restoration !
Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

Sounds good..
I didn't get to it yet ..I'm planning on doing it tonight when I get home from work . I'm going to borrow a big crescent wrench from a mechanic here at work to remove the nut .
I have all the lines removed already..I planned on replacing all of them . When I got it home and took them off I discovered the oil was like milk so I assumed it got water in it which isn't good either .
This things turning into a full restoration !
Ernie

How much $ did you pay for it ?
The payback is not just the value of a working log splitter (@$700) but more valuable is what you’re going to learn along the path to repairing it, this knowledge will stay with you, you’ll build on it and pass it along to others. So don’t worry if financially it doesn’t make sense to pursue and complete the repair, education and experience have value.

once you learn how to
- disassemble and repair the seals on hydraulic cylinders aka repacking
- find replacement parts online
- find missing information online
....then you will find that there are lots of old leaking hydraulic machines (tractors, backhoe etc etc) that are waiting for you and can be had for cheap.

in a year or two you’ll be giving to others on arboristsite!

 

[ErnieG]

How much $ did you pay for it ?
The payback is not just the value of a working log splitter (@$700) but more valuable is what you’re going to learn along the path to repairing it, this knowledge will stay with you, you’ll build on it and pass it along to others. So don’t worry if financially it doesn’t make sense to pursue and complete the repair, education and experience have value.

I paid $225 for it ...one good thing is it had a brand new 6.5 horse motor on it . The way I'm looking at it is ..if I have around $400 into it at the end I'm still ahead compared to the prices of new ones and even good used ones which are way north of that..at least around me here in Northeast Pa .
I enjoy the challenge and keeps me outta trouble and the reward in the end makes it all worth it !
Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

I paid $225 for it ...one good thing is it had a brand new 6.5 horse motor on it . The way I'm looking at it is ..if I have around $400 into it at the end I'm still ahead compared to the prices of new ones and even good used ones which are way north of that..at least around me here in Northeast Pa .
I enjoy the challenge and keeps me outta trouble and the reward in the end makes it all worth it !
Ernie

Forgot to mention that when you get the cylinder open and cleaned out , you’ll need to look down the bore with a flashlight for any scratches caused by loose metal or from the piston rubbing directly against the cylinder wall due to worn out seals. Any scratch that a fingernail catches on is too deep. This can be fixed with a hone and a drill.

 

[ErnieG]

Forgot to mention that when you get the cylinder open and cleaned out , you’ll need to look down the bore with a flashlight for any scratches caused by loose metal or from the piston rubbing directly against the cylinder wall due to worn out seals. Any scratch that a fingernail catches on is too deep. This can be fixed with a hone and a drill.

I will be sure to check it very close !
Ernie

 

[gordda40]

Step 1 . Remove the hydraulic pipe fittings to the hydraulic cylinder and drain out the fluid/oil.

step 2.
Look around the outside rim of the big “gland nut” in the picture for a locking screw , remove it . Then get a large pipe wrench and put it on the big hex gland nut and turn counterclockwise and remove it.

step 3
Take notes or pictures of where each seal is located.

step 4
Remove each seal and label it. Then with machinists calipers carefully measure the dimensions: thickness, diameter , cross section etc

step 5
The gland nut will have seals on the inside so it must be removed from the rod and these seals removed, carefully note the orientation of the seal (ex cup side towards inside of cylinder etc)

step 6
After all seals have been removed and measured, collect the information and compare to posts 621 622. There is no longer a cylinder seal repair kit that will have the exact seals you need. Instead, you must measure and order each one individually. Your success in this endeavor lies in your ability to measure the seals and find the match in the online catalog of the many seal vendors on internet.
Good news the seals are cheap.

Thanks for the timely conversation with Ernie, My Didier is at the shop and they are struggling finding the seals out by the Gland Nut. I am going to provide them with your list with the hopes that it will help. I have a 26f with the H cylinder, so hopefully, your research will help get this thing back together soon.