dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

[trophyhunter]

An FYI on the CS4518 models, just figured out why so many of them are still brand new for the as is price. Some of the 18" bars that came with mine are about 1/2" longer at the nose (mounts and oil holes are identical) than the others and were shipped with 61 link chains. You aren't getting that B&C to fit the saw without adding another link. People must have bought these and returned them after trying to hang that chain. Five of mine came with the longer bar and the chain is a link to short, I got two of the smaller bars and they work fine with 61 drive links.

There's a decal on the saw that calls for Oregon bar #180SDEA095 and chain #91P-62, that bar number is the shorter of the two bars (longer bar is marked Oregon 554941 8B) and the shorty bar will work with either 61 or 62 link chains and still have plenty of room on the bar adjustment for wear.

The specified chain Oregon 91P-62 will work with either of the supplied bars, but 61 link chains will not allow you to install it on the longer bar.

 

[Brian B.]

That's good information to have, thanks

 

[o8f150]

123 pages,,, hard to believe,,,, and here i thought i had the bug for an earthquake

 

[trophyhunter]

123 pages,,, hard to believe,,,, and here i thought i had the bug for an earthquake

I only wish they had some of those 070 or 090 copies on the cheap to! Oh well these are a steal for the price and alot of fun and we owe it all to you!

 

[Steve NW WI]

Quake pics, nothing most of you probably haven't seen.

The rather disappointing packaging:



Together:


It's a leaker, seems to be coming from the oil pump area, I'll pull the clutch and see what I can find under there later:


Plug looks pretty good, not as soaked as some describe:


Compression is good, didn't take a piston/cyl pic, but they look new:


I ripped the impulse line while trying to get it off. I think there's enough left there to reattach, but if not, it looks like I might need to pull the jug to get to the other end of it. It was late and I didn't spend a lot of time looking at my options, though:


I'm gonna bring the muffler into work, and have my welder buddy look at it for his thoughts on the best way to open it up so we can do a good job of welding it back together afterwards. I'm not that great of a welder, and we've got the TIG option at work. Someone mentioned these being stainless, but it's a magnetic (400 series?) variety if it is. Might also see what's laying around, maybe make a stack out of some tubing flattened out...

Question: when y'all cut the slots in the carb adjusters, do you just saw through the casting that protects the screws as well, or do you pull them out first? I might just order the tool, I'm sure in years to come I'll run into more carbs that need one.

 

[trophyhunter]

Steve if you have any 1/4" copper tube handy, just work one of the jaws of a needle nose into the end and peen it flat to make the "D" shape. You can pull the guts out of a cheap ball point pen and smack one side flat and that usually works to. It just seems wrong to spend as much on a fancy screwdriver as these things cost for the whole saw

 

[Steve NW WI]

Steve if you have any 1/4" copper tube handy, just work one of the jaws of a needle nose into the end and peen it flat to make the "D" shape. You can pull the guts out of a cheap ball point pen and smack one side flat and that usually works to. It just seems wrong to spend as much on a fancy screwdriver as these things cost for the whole saw

Will try the copper tubing trick, but for about $60 I can get a set of 4 screwdrivers (D, Double D, splined, and PacMan) that will hopefully work on a bunch of different saws.

 

[Lark-o]

Quake pics, nothing most of you probably haven't seen.

The rather disappointing packaging:

View attachment 319954
View attachment 319955
Together:

View attachment 319956
It's a leaker, seems to be coming from the oil pump area, I'll pull the clutch and see what I can find under there later:

View attachment 319958
Plug looks pretty good, not as soaked as some describe:

View attachment 319959
Compression is good, didn't take a piston/cyl pic, but they look new:

View attachment 319960
I ripped the impulse line while trying to get it off. I think there's enough left there to reattach, but if not, it looks like I might need to pull the jug to get to the other end of it. It was late and I didn't spend a lot of time looking at my options, though:

View attachment 319961
I'm gonna bring the muffler into work, and have my welder buddy look at it for his thoughts on the best way to open it up so we can do a good job of welding it back together afterwards. I'm not that great of a welder, and we've got the TIG option at work. Someone mentioned these being stainless, but it's a magnetic (400 series?) variety if it is. Might also see what's laying around, maybe make a stack out of some tubing flattened out...

Question: when y'all cut the slots in the carb adjusters, do you just saw through the casting that protects the screws as well, or do you pull them out first? I might just order the tool, I'm sure in years to come I'll run into more carbs that need one.

I tore my impulse line too, that little spring hose clamp was doing its job a little too well.

Im thinking the muffler is mild steel, its pretty soft. Lets hope its not 400 series stainless because that stuff doesn't take well to welding. Once you get the muffler apart youll see the stud sleeves that are tounge and grooved so to speak. once you got the muffler gutted you can use those sleeves and the muffler studs and nuts to hold the two halfs together to line up everything and keep the depth of the muffler the same. Just cut off the square box that is tacked to the flange that sammiches the muffer and the exhaust port. youll get what im talking about when you cut it apart. I can post more picture if you want of what I have left inside of it.

I cut off the shoulder around the screws. I found in the past the shoulder makes it hard to adjust the screws because it will interfere with a screw driver.

 

[Brian B.]

Quake pics, nothing most of you probably haven't seen.

The rather disappointing packaging:

View attachment 319954
View attachment 319955
Together:

View attachment 319956
It's a leaker, seems to be coming from the oil pump area, I'll pull the clutch and see what I can find under there later:

View attachment 319958
Plug looks pretty good, not as soaked as some describe:

View attachment 319959
Compression is good, didn't take a piston/cyl pic, but they look new:

View attachment 319960
I ripped the impulse line while trying to get it off. I think there's enough left there to reattach, but if not, it looks like I might need to pull the jug to get to the other end of it. It was late and I didn't spend a lot of time looking at my options, though:

View attachment 319961
I'm gonna bring the muffler into work, and have my welder buddy look at it for his thoughts on the best way to open it up so we can do a good job of welding it back together afterwards. I'm not that great of a welder, and we've got the TIG option at work. Someone mentioned these being stainless, but it's a magnetic (400 series?) variety if it is. Might also see what's laying around, maybe make a stack out of some tubing flattened out...

Question: when y'all cut the slots in the carb adjusters, do you just saw through the casting that protects the screws as well, or do you pull them out first? I might just order the tool, I'm sure in years to come I'll run into more carbs that need one.

Wow does this saw have good metal construction or what, very impressive

 

[Brian B.]

123 pages,,, hard to believe,,,, and here i thought i had the bug for an earthquake

Worst of it is, I don't need another, but my wife wants to get me another. I was explaining the SKS rifle deals of the 90's and she thinks about it and says, lets just get you another one, you want it real bad and its not a fortune.

Up to me, I so want another but it's just that, want.. And Christmas is approaching, LOL

 

[trophyhunter]

I have seen those carb adjuster sets, thought about it and recalled something my friend Stuart once said. "I don't mind paying the price for a Mercedes but I'll pump my own gas to save a buck." I'm making one from copper or cutting a flat into all of mine to use a regular screwdriver before 60 bucks get's spent, but that's just the cheap old ******* in me.

 

[diggers_dad]

You people are killing me! My first 45cc model came in today. It might have been ran for 5 minutes once, no more than that. I ordered it directly from the site using the "ebay" coupon code, $48 and change to my door.

The bar is new, the chain is new, there was a scrench and a file as well as a bar cover. The compression felt a tad high, 187 psi when I checked it on my gauge. The saw even has a rim and drum set up for the chain. I ordered a second one already.

This is all Effonefiddy's fault. I can't afford any more great deals. Somebody lock this thread down!

dd

 

[trophyhunter]

What's this can't afford nonsense? All your doing is buying a bar and chain and getting a free saw that blows North of 180psi stock right out of the box. I tested one earlier that blew 192 psi. and it's never cut anything or worn the rings in yet. No wonder they start and run so well

 

[Lark-o]

When you put it like that it kinda makes sense lol.

 

[jsk]

I tried to get the ebay coupon code to work it doesn't seem to work. or does it need to be "ebay" in parenthesis.
thanks

 

[trophyhunter]

I tried to get the ebay coupon code to work it doesn't seem to work. or does it need to be "ebay" in parenthesis.
thanks

You can use "OPT" for a coupon code to, same 12% discount

 

[Steve NW WI]

Anyone measured the exhaust port on the 45? I m having an "idea" moment at work...

 

[jsk]

thanks I will try that

 

[jsk]

out of stock on their site . HA figures my luck

 

[Brian B.]

Not from tc-store, that's where I got mine, paid the "full" $55 (blah ha ha), brand new too, ZERO use