Do i need another chainsaw ?

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This the 30" bar on the old 50cc Homelite, bucking some elm- its a bit punky so not the full experience. I bucked the smaller half of it standing, bent over just for the biggest cuts. Since its all down the ground I cut most of the diameter then rolled it to cut the remainder. Its a skip-tooth chain so still cuts reasonably, larger wood needs a lighter touch to keep the chain speed up- thats where a bigger saw would help. Standing or bending its helpful to have a long bar on the bigger cuts, no need to fiddle around with multiple passes. I do have a CS590 with 20" bar for felling and so on- the 30" bar gets unwieldy for that. I wouldn't do any of this with a 30cc. OTOH to get this trunk section onto flat ground I had to turn and pull it up the hillside- since I was working on the slope having the 30cc saw handy was helpful for cutting off pieces while I arranged the rigging and did the pull.

homelite-sxla-30-work.jpg
 
I am a big fan of Buckin Billy Rays videos. I just don't agree with him when it comes to bucking standing up straight. I'm probably just too tall.

About the long bar on a (relatively) small saw: Of course you can't use the whole length of the bar to cut. But if you just use 12" of the 30" bar, I don't see why your saw couldn't handle it.

Good luck, johnfawn2000!
It's all about the oiler... there are recommended bar lengths for that reason alone...
 
So i guess there is no shortcut. Whatever the saw or bar, labour has to be put in.

I ve been doing exercises with 25lbs weight, hoping to figure out best posture and ergonomics. I dont have usually back problems, i was just astonished how few hours working with light saw (sloped terrain though) fatigues.

Thanks everyone for the input.
 

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