do new sealed gas cans keep regular pump gas mix longer
- Thread starter echomeister
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I had a few like that. Don't care for them. The ones I had all took different spouts, and their round profile hogs up more space then they should.Wow, lots of people spending big money for gas cans here.
I just went to the local flea market / junk dealer and got a couple of these for $10 - $20 apiece:
I'm slowly transitioning everything to diesel I can. Have one diesel generator and then the back up is gas powered. (Yes, I have a back up, for the back up lol.) Longest power was out was just under a week. That wad an expensive week. One of the capacitors went out in the mosa (yanmar powered) generator, and I didn't have the gas one at that time.
This is incredibly area dependent. E10, stored any way you like, will NOT be ok in a year here. It'll still be flammable, but I wouldn't run it in anything I cared about.
So my cousin was telling me about this guy upstate, that buys e10, (like 1k gallons at a shot) adds water to the saturation point of the ethanol then drains out the water and ethonal. I don't personally see the gains to this, your loosing at least 10% of your fuel and still risk emultion or suspension of water in the gas. But curious if any one has tried it purposefully with success? (If it came to that I'd just go by non ethonal)
It works, though you lose the anti-knock properties that ethanol gives it.
One way to tell whether your gasoline contains ethanol is to add some water to it, then shake it up. If the water "disappears" -- then it contains ethanol. If you keep adding water, eventually you get phase separation, which is what raises hell.
One way to tell whether your gasoline contains ethanol is to add some water to it, then shake it up. If the water "disappears" -- then it contains ethanol. If you keep adding water, eventually you get phase separation, which is what raises hell.
Yeah, I have a tester like that, supposedly let's you know what percent ethonal is in the fuel.
but to try it on such a large scale is my question. It's all hear say, so I have no idea what or how they guy does it. From what I've been told, the tank get filled, he drops a garden hose in it and fills the take to whatever level, then waits however many days, then drains the water off the bottom till he gets gas.
I've heard of separating out the ethanol, but I wouldn't personally do it. Gasoline is a mix of chemicals, blended to achieve the right octane, vapor pressure, detergency, and a thousand other things. I wouldn't be in any more hurry to mess with that mix than I would be to pull one of the components out of my motor oil. No clue what you'll wind up with when it's done.
It also seems like an enormous hassle. I'd rather just pay the premium and buy non-ethanol fuel.
It also seems like an enormous hassle. I'd rather just pay the premium and buy non-ethanol fuel.
Smitty Smithsonite
ArboristSite Operative
My flying buddy used to do that ... until he frigged up and had his engine fail not long after takeoff after letting a bit of water get into his tank. Good part about that was he was at a decent altitude and still close to the field we launch from. I've since talked him into using the same E0 I buy in bulk, but he's been running pump gas for the most part.
He's running a Rotax 582 - same as a snowmobile engine, only with dual ignition. Traditional carbs, so he can drain the bowls if he knows they're going to sit a while. His machine requires a light sport, or pilot's license. My paramotor is a different animal - ultralight (no license or reg required), single cylinder, single magnetron-style ignition (same as most chainsaws and lawn mowers), and a giant Walbro WB37 diaphragm carburetor.
Those metal cans are like gold. I still have my dad's one he bought in '80 for our '78 John Deere Trailfire 440 snowmobile, plus a few others he had for saws, and some I got out of the trash when I worked a recycling route for a major metropolitan contract. The modern plastic cans I have I've converted to cans that WORK with aftermarket components.
To quote OM617YOTA, "This is incredibly area-dependent."Yeah you're 100% right on that. I couldn't believe how crappy fuel was in CA when I was out West, You guys all get the worst of the worst as far as fuel goes along that entire coast. I had to dump the tank of fuel I put in my '84 Honda XL350R not long after I got home out of caution. Even fresh it didn't smell ANYTHING like the crap we have in the Northeast.
He's running a Rotax 582 - same as a snowmobile engine, only with dual ignition. Traditional carbs, so he can drain the bowls if he knows they're going to sit a while. His machine requires a light sport, or pilot's license. My paramotor is a different animal - ultralight (no license or reg required), single cylinder, single magnetron-style ignition (same as most chainsaws and lawn mowers), and a giant Walbro WB37 diaphragm carburetor.
Those metal cans are like gold. I still have my dad's one he bought in '80 for our '78 John Deere Trailfire 440 snowmobile, plus a few others he had for saws, and some I got out of the trash when I worked a recycling route for a major metropolitan contract. The modern plastic cans I have I've converted to cans that WORK with aftermarket components.
To quote OM617YOTA, "This is incredibly area-dependent."Yeah you're 100% right on that. I couldn't believe how crappy fuel was in CA when I was out West, You guys all get the worst of the worst as far as fuel goes along that entire coast. I had to dump the tank of fuel I put in my '84 Honda XL350R not long after I got home out of caution. Even fresh it didn't smell ANYTHING like the crap we have in the Northeast.
What are you using 24 gallons of kerosene on?
Closer to 35 gallons, and that's about half what I used to have. I collect kerosene powered stoves, lamps, and lanterns. It gets used.
Well it looked like (4) 6 gallon cans.......... my mistake. Will not be my last tonight either
I use e free gas but have been hung with ethanol gas more than once.I have found that if the ethanol and water have joined and you remove it the remaing gas with out the ethanol is next to use less as a fuel.
During my life as a fishing resort operator trapper cut skid etc the most use less gas can on the earth is the 4. something gallon Jerry can.It is tippy has no air vent a gigantic hole to pour gas out of all around a poor design but it looks and works well for hanging on the back of a jeep
My dad told me that during the early 1960s they were cutting the right of way for the hydro high line and they had to burn the limbs brush etc.He said that on a frosty -30 f January morning in almost darkness Porky was poking up the coals on the fire he grabbed the Jerry can with gasoline in it and splashed some on the coals and made a little gas trail back about 10 feet he was still pouring with two hands on the Jery can when the flame started at the fire and instantly burned down the back trail shot up to the can and the sh//t hit the can.
My dad said it blew only the bottom back end of the can out but he said it was a solid 150 feet of flame.Porky was totaly stunned and suffered only from a few flames on his leather mitts but he learned not to use gas on a fire.
Porkys new nick name was Porky the pig with nine lives.
Kash
During my life as a fishing resort operator trapper cut skid etc the most use less gas can on the earth is the 4. something gallon Jerry can.It is tippy has no air vent a gigantic hole to pour gas out of all around a poor design but it looks and works well for hanging on the back of a jeep
My dad told me that during the early 1960s they were cutting the right of way for the hydro high line and they had to burn the limbs brush etc.He said that on a frosty -30 f January morning in almost darkness Porky was poking up the coals on the fire he grabbed the Jerry can with gasoline in it and splashed some on the coals and made a little gas trail back about 10 feet he was still pouring with two hands on the Jery can when the flame started at the fire and instantly burned down the back trail shot up to the can and the sh//t hit the can.
My dad said it blew only the bottom back end of the can out but he said it was a solid 150 feet of flame.Porky was totaly stunned and suffered only from a few flames on his leather mitts but he learned not to use gas on a fire.
Porkys new nick name was Porky the pig with nine lives.
Kash
Only gas i buy is Shell 87 the two other stations has to much ethanol in there fuel. Never had a problem with shell either.
In a ez pour plastic can regular ethanol gas will last around 18 months before getting weird
In a ez pour plastic can regular ethanol gas will last around 18 months before getting weird
There are lots of versions of gas can called the Jerry can. Some, like the big mouth American cans, are absolute garbage.
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Beware of fake cans information
https://www.exploringoverland.com/o...5/20/buyer-beware-fake-nato-fuel-cans?rq=NATO..
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StihlPotlicker
ArboristSite Operative
I bought mine from jerrycan.com while i was waiting on my cans 5gal and 2.5 gal ones to be delivered, i bought 2 from HF to see how they are. i do use my plastic 5gal and 2.5 gal cans for mower, 4whlr. but i have a 5gal plastic i mix for my chainsaw mill. i put Star Tron in when I put 91E free in cans
That is known as liquid/liquid extraction. If you want to get out all the ethanol you should do the extraction 3 times, then treat with a drying agent (anhydrous magnesium or sodium sulfates) and filter off the drying agent.
Doing that a thousand gallons at a time would require industrial scale equipment.
I can buy 100LL AV gas for $6/gal right now, that will store about forever in metal drums or cans, in a cool place. Mixed it still stores for years.
Yeah, don't know. From what my cousin was saying it was very un scientific method the guy used. I wanted to call bs straight away, but he swears the guy does it yearly and sells the gas as e-free.
The av gas has zero interest to me till the low lead becomes no lead. I'm around enough cancer causing stuff just in day to day life, don't need to breath in lead too.
The reason the weld seam is placed between two ridges on the jerry can isn't "to protect the weld" as Paddy O'Furniture claims (why would welds need to be "protected"? they're typically stronger than the parent metal anyway) -- the reason for the ridges is to stiffen the sides of the jerry can and thereby prevent the distortion and warpage that otherwise would result when you weld two flat panels together in a place where it's impossible or impractical to dolly them from the inside after welding....
