Do you leave that cut tree standing?

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Like The Woods!

ArboristSite Member
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Middle of the Great State of Maine
I guess this is more for the woodlot owners that cut part time. For many years I cut, at the very least firewood, without the proper "big iron". Always trying to make do with something less expensive, such as *come-a-longs, hand and 12V winches, and a lot of muscle.

My question is: When a tree is cut enough so it should fall but doesn't, or hangs up just a little bit:laugh: , do you leave it to fall on it's own or keep bustin' your hump to finally get it down?

I don't think that I have ever left one to come down on it's own. I guess I'm too darn S & S, (stubborn and stupid). And I know that I have done some real dangerous and unsafe things whilst trying to get that :censored: :censored: tree on the ground.

I now have a ag type tractor, with a Farmi on rear. What luxury!

*Typing "come-a long" made me think of what my daughter called it when about 5-6 years old. She has, and still does, (she's 37), call it a "pull-me-back".
 
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I would certainly try not to leave a known danger hanging there if at all possible. But, realistically, we all know that sometimes the best plans fail to produce the desired results, and there may be instance where there is no other practical choice but to leave the cut tree in place.
 
depends on a lot of variables, if its less than 12" dia i'll usually cut 3' sections out untill it falls, i've pulled some with the same winch you have and i've left some 24" dia for the wind to blow over(these have been on my own property so no real safety risk)
 
If it won't fall, something aint cut right. More info would help tho. :(

This is not intended as a specific encounter. Just a general question, if for no other reason, but to reinforce my brilliance::rolleyes:

That, and it is cold and windy out. I gave myself a couple hours off. Sitting here keeps me out of my dear wife's way......
 
I got one leaning right now. Hemlock got hung up in an ash. It's not going anywhere, that's how I decided to leave it. I've cut off the branches 16-20' up and butted off the lengths. There's 50' feet left with loads of branches. I've got enough work to keep me busy while I contemplate how I am going to get it down. As long as it is out of harms way she'll be safe leaning. Other times I have gone at em like a madman. Got to use your head and your gut when it comes to leaners but I think we will all agree they are the worst and the most dangerous.
 
"hangs up just a little bit" that happens to all of us.
if so then try to get them down at your earliest convenience with whatever you have available.
just a reminder: if the tree on the bottom snaps then things happen really really fast!!!!!!!!

"When a tree is cut enough so it should fall but doesn't" you bade a boo boo

and that has happened to all of us too:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

biggest surprise i ever had was when a 3/4" grapevine was connecting the top of the tree to another. dang tree just would not fall and i couldnt figure out why.:dizzy: :dizzy:
 
I cut in some pretty tight woods and have trees hang up from time to time. I’ve got the luxury of having a 30hp 4WD tractor so it’s usually not a problem.

A little trick I’ve learned over the years…If I’ve got a good sized one hung up, pulling on the butt-end with the tractor just makes a plow and if it strikes a root, sometimes it doesn’t go anywhere. What I do is cut the upward side of the stalk about ¾ of the way or so through, as high up as I can reach. Then I attach a chain from the tractor just above my new cut. Pull on it with the tractor and it will fold and break at the cut and come down without the butt digging in too bad. Works pretty well!

Jim
 
Push it over... or wedge it over

I got enormous flack from AS for what I did with a large alder that did that this summer; wedge cuts, back cut, and it just stood there with about a 2 inch hinge. It was so perfectly ballanced. Anyway, I did not want to cut the hinge any further so I hopped on the tractor and pushed it over with the bucket raised up. Down it came, real easy. Just took a nudge. The local sawyers think it was a good idea as they say that alders tend to split and crack at the base.

The more accepted method is to use wedges. Pop one into the back cut and drive it with a sledge or hammer side of an axe. That should topple it over if it is a ballance issue. If there is too much hinge wood maybe cut it some more with a wedge in the back cut to keep the bar from pinching and keep the tree from thinking about falling backward. I would not leave it standing after being cut (read: liability, giant widow maker, death snag, yadda yadda). :blob2:
 
If I'm reading this right your asking about a tree you have cut, started to fall then top got hung in the top of another tree? Ya, those suck big time. That's why I have a 1/2" choker strap from Bailey's and 116 horse tractor. Fourth gear and 3/4 throttle usually does the trick. :hmm3grin2orange:

Pre tractor days I usually kept cutting up the trunk until it came down. It is a miracle I'm still here.

But, since I've come to AS and learned to fell and use wedges I haven't had to resort to the old "brute" methods for some time now. Wedges are really cheap!

I'm gonna cut a load or two before the ice hits this weekend watch me hang every dang one of 'em now I opened my mouth. :biggrinbounce2:
 
Got one hung myself.

However, it was nature, and not me that hung it.

I am trying to figure how to get it down, (with no way to pull) and not kill myself.

This would be a good time for an expert to chime in and teach us how to get them on the ground.

If no one tells me how, I'm gonna undercut and topcut chunks off of the bottom until it falls or stands straight up.
 
I always try to drop trees on the windiest days there are. Although it always seams like the wind stops just enough to let the tree hang there and temp you to cut more. I need to buy more wedges to alleviate this problem. The more I read this site the more safety conscious I am becoming.
 
Always deck what I cut, but sometimes involves a little clear cutting and head scratching.
 
I always try to drop trees on the windiest days there are. I need to buy more wedges to alleviate this problem. .

Or you can just not cut in the wind. Changing direction or not. The wind may be prevailing from one direction, but the trees do rebound in the wind. Cutting in wind is bad news. Breeze, maybe...OK. Sustained wind, nope.

Jeff
 
Or you can just not cut in the wind. Changing direction or not. The wind may be prevailing from one direction, but the trees do rebound in the wind. Cutting in wind is bad news. Breeze, maybe...OK. Sustained wind, nope.

Jeff

Yup. A lot of the fallers out here don't cut in high winds. They know better. They know better because they're professionals and they know better because they use the common sense God gave 'em. Intentionally waiting for the windiest days to fall timber just doesn't make a lot of sense. It doesn't make any sense,really. If you need a major force of wind to make the trees fall where you want them you must be cutting on some real steep ground or have really bad trees.
That being said... No, I don't leave hang-ups. I'll dominoe it or drag it down with a skidder or a cat.
 
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