I've only used a cheap folding handsaw and very few times. Was thinking about buying a nicer hand saw so I don't have to lug a chainsaw all the time for trimming and pruning. Just wondering if the hand saw will dull if I run it through a big completely rotten limb.
Does rotten wood dull hand saws?
- Thread starter jtc16
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
Not unless it's also full of nails, old bicycle parts, cannonballs, pieces of chain, manhole covers, etc. 
I've never had rotten wood dull any kind of saw. Dirt will dull a chainsaw mostly because of the speed the cutters are moving. This is why a reciprocating saw is the weapon of choice for cutting roots. The slower moving blade doesn't dull nearly as fast (I typically get about a year of use out of a blade before it gets too dull). Of course, the blades are very cheap compared to saw chains, which is another good reason for using the reciprocating saw.
I've cut very rotten wood with both the Silky and Komelon arborist handsaws, without them dulling. Down close to the ground, if the trunk is rotten with open cracks or wounds, the rotting center can collect a lot of dirt that blows in there, so a chainsaw can get dulled pretty quick. Lots of folks will use an old chain near the end of its useful life for cutting these. The cutting goes slower, but it beats dulling a new or freshly sharpened chain. I keep old chains for the 32" and 36" bars around that I sharpen, but don't waste too much time on doing it. I use them for these occasions, or when I think there is metal in the wood.
Metal in the wood, of course, will dull any kind of saw instantly... but again, if you're pretty sure it's there, you can use a reciprocating saw with a general contracting blade (usually marked on package for cutting wood with embedded nails) for this.
I've never had rotten wood dull any kind of saw. Dirt will dull a chainsaw mostly because of the speed the cutters are moving. This is why a reciprocating saw is the weapon of choice for cutting roots. The slower moving blade doesn't dull nearly as fast (I typically get about a year of use out of a blade before it gets too dull). Of course, the blades are very cheap compared to saw chains, which is another good reason for using the reciprocating saw.
I've cut very rotten wood with both the Silky and Komelon arborist handsaws, without them dulling. Down close to the ground, if the trunk is rotten with open cracks or wounds, the rotting center can collect a lot of dirt that blows in there, so a chainsaw can get dulled pretty quick. Lots of folks will use an old chain near the end of its useful life for cutting these. The cutting goes slower, but it beats dulling a new or freshly sharpened chain. I keep old chains for the 32" and 36" bars around that I sharpen, but don't waste too much time on doing it. I use them for these occasions, or when I think there is metal in the wood.
Metal in the wood, of course, will dull any kind of saw instantly... but again, if you're pretty sure it's there, you can use a reciprocating saw with a general contracting blade (usually marked on package for cutting wood with embedded nails) for this.
IyaMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Samurai saws are not made by Silky (any Silky will set you back more than double that price, maybe triple).
I don't know how good the Samurai are, but they should be way better than the "cheap" saw you were using!
I'll admit I was won over by Silky a few years ago and will never go back, but here in Japan they cost about half the price as in the US (and have a wider selection). Aside from crazy sharpness and long life, I love the fact that the blade goes completely through the handle, which eliminates blade loosening and bending, giving a stiffness in the hand I've never found elsewhere. And the scabbard can't be beat on mine, easy locking, dual direction loading (meaning you can put it in either way, but my particular saw isn't heavily curved. Heavily curved blades are usually only one direction), and the scabbard connects well to my belt.
You might want to search the site here for Samurai reviews (there's probably many), especially if you intend long term usage. And before buying online, maybe go to a store to handle/hold the saws directly to compare.
). I don't know how good the Samurai are, but they should be way better than the "cheap" saw you were using!
I'll admit I was won over by Silky a few years ago and will never go back, but here in Japan they cost about half the price as in the US (and have a wider selection). Aside from crazy sharpness and long life, I love the fact that the blade goes completely through the handle, which eliminates blade loosening and bending, giving a stiffness in the hand I've never found elsewhere. And the scabbard can't be beat on mine, easy locking, dual direction loading (meaning you can put it in either way, but my particular saw isn't heavily curved. Heavily curved blades are usually only one direction), and the scabbard connects well to my belt.
You might want to search the site here for Samurai reviews (there's probably many), especially if you intend long term usage. And before buying online, maybe go to a store to handle/hold the saws directly to compare.
What silky saw do you have and whats the largest diameter you can go with it? I've heard good things about the samurai thats why i think it would be ok to try first but i may end up going with the silky, I like to invest in better quality if i can afford it. It's almost surely better than my cheap one because this is it: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-8400...8&qid=1461984274&sr=8-15&keywords=folding+saw
The scabbards don't have any padding or anything that would soak do they? Should be pretty easy to keep em from rusting right?
The scabbards don't have any padding or anything that would soak do they? Should be pretty easy to keep em from rusting right?
JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
Nope. Just plastic.
IyaMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a Silky Gomtaro, 270mm (11 inch?) and I've cut through 4-5 inch treetops (softwood though), but usually 1-2 inch branches. If your doing roots, you probably want a straighter blade (not something like the Sugoi or Zubat) and probably 240 or 270mm (if too long its not as much power on the tip).
The scabbard is hard plastic, but the Gomtaro has rollers on both sides at the top of the scabbard to allow the blade teeth to roll in (as opposed to scraping and eventually cutting through the side), and these also serve as the easy-lock holders. There's also a sleeve at the bottom of the scabbard to allow a lower strap around your thigh, and since I began using this last year I am so happy not to have it bouncing around anymore when hiking around or when in a tree.
I'm about due for a new blade and recently noticed at my local hardware store a new blade type which also has teeth on the top side. Awesome!
This would be greath for the type of pruning I do, so I'll be getting that blade next. Not sure if its available yet in the US though
The scabbard is hard plastic, but the Gomtaro has rollers on both sides at the top of the scabbard to allow the blade teeth to roll in (as opposed to scraping and eventually cutting through the side), and these also serve as the easy-lock holders. There's also a sleeve at the bottom of the scabbard to allow a lower strap around your thigh, and since I began using this last year I am so happy not to have it bouncing around anymore when hiking around or when in a tree.
I'm about due for a new blade and recently noticed at my local hardware store a new blade type which also has teeth on the top side. Awesome!
This would be greath for the type of pruning I do, so I'll be getting that blade next. Not sure if its available yet in the US though
