Draft issues with stainless chimney

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What I find funny with it all is I've been around wood stoves my whole life .. growing up with one in our house.
I think the big difference is the chimney...ever other stove had a conventional block style chimney that I think drafts much better .
I currently have one in my house but it's for a coal stove that I heat my entire house with and that's very easily regulated and drafts great !

I do notice on days that are cloudy and a low ceiling are the days I have more problems with it drafting good .
The baro pressure being low doesn't help the issue .
I'm not a fan of the Selkirk style chimney cap ...it seems restrictive then just a flat cover over the top for the pipe .

Thanks
Ernie
 
Open a door or window when the stove is running. If the draft improves, the stove is starving for air.

You might need to add a cold air kit to feed outside air into the firebox to keep the draft correct.

Otherwise you will just have to always keep a window cracked.
 
From fireplace advisor.com--

Causes of Back-Puffing

  • A poor draft can cause smoke to back up into the stove.
  • Blockages in the chimney or stove can lead to back-puffing.

Solutions to Back-Puffing

  • Regular cleaning helps prevent back-puffing.
  • Increase the height of the chimney or add a draft inducer to improve airflow.
  • Small changes to the stove’s air intake can often resolve back-puffing.
 
What I find funny with it all is I've been around wood stoves my whole life .. growing up with one in our house.
I think the big difference is the chimney...ever other stove had a conventional block style chimney that I think drafts much better .
I currently have one in my house but it's for a coal stove that I heat my entire house with and that's very easily regulated and drafts great !

I do notice on days that are cloudy and a low ceiling are the days I have more problems with it drafting good .
The baro pressure being low doesn't help the issue .
I'm not a fan of the Selkirk style chimney cap ...it seems restrictive then just a flat cover over the top for the pipe .

Thanks
Ernie
the id of the cap is still the same size of the internal pipe. Shouldn't be a restriction. Although I agree, the design sucks in general.
have you checked draft with a manomer? How air tight is the shop? What have your pipe temps been when it's back drafting? Barometric pressure definatly affects chimney operation, but with the cold temps we've been having, you should have more then enough differential for a good draft, even if we have a low ceiling.
 
the id of the cap is still the same size of the internal pipe. Shouldn't be a restriction. Although I agree, the design sucks in general.
have you checked draft with a manomer? How air tight is the shop? What have your pipe temps been when it's back drafting? Barometric pressure definatly affects chimney operation, but with the cold temps we've been having, you should have more then enough differential for a good draft, even if we have a low ceiling.
Yes the id is the same as the pipe itself...its the round piece on the side of it that I think is very restrictive.
I don't have a manometer to check it but it'd probably be a good idea to get one and check it .
The shops insulated really good and I'd say it's probably quit air tight .

When I got home from work I got a good hot fire going with just two pieces of wood and the flue pipe just above the stove was at 325 then put three more pieces of wood in it and closed the door and fairly quick I got a few good back drafts outta the draft knobs ..and they were quit big puffs and a lot of smoke.
I had a man door open and two windows cracked and that didn't seem to help either .
It's really got me puzzled ...lol

Ernie
 
From fireplace advisor.com--

Causes of Back-Puffing

  • A poor draft can cause smoke to back up into the stove.
  • Blockages in the chimney or stove can lead to back-puffing.

Solutions to Back-Puffing

  • Regular cleaning helps prevent back-puffing.
  • Increase the height of the chimney or add a draft inducer to improve airflow.
  • Small changes to the stove’s air intake can often resolve back-puffing.

That's good advice but another reason for 'back puffing' is adding wood to a hot bed of coal and then the fire not getting enough oxygen. This can result is a series of 'mini explosions' resulting in smoke coming our of the input air opening and any leaks in the woodstove and/or chimney. I've had it happen decades ago and it can make a slightly audible sound.

What happens is the mini explosion uses up the oxygen and then afterwards when the air/volatile gas mixture reaches critical it happens again.

The solution is to let the bed of coals burn down more before adding wood, or just running it with more air and more heat output after filling with wood. Filling the hot stove with a lot of small splits can make it worse than larger splits.

 
That's good advice but another reason for 'back puffing' is adding wood to a hot bed of coal and then the fire not getting enough oxygen. This can result is a series of 'mini explosions' resulting in smoke coming our of the input air opening and any leaks in the woodstove and/or chimney. I've had it happen decades ago and it can make a slightly audible sound.

What happens is the mini explosion uses up the oxygen and then afterwards when the air/volatile gas mixture reaches critical it happens again.

The solution is to let the bed of coals burn down more before adding wood, or just running it with more air and more heat output after filling with wood. Filling the hot stove with a lot of small splits can make it worse than larger splits.


That's what my stove does exactly...
That stove in the video is actually a coal stove ...I have the same stove in my house Harman markIII
I don't think they are designed to burn wood very efficiently but they are one of the best coal stoves ever made IMHO!

Ernie
 
I've got a suspicion that as the air in the shop warms up from the stove, the shop starts providing a better chimney effect than the chimney so the flow reverses.
 

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