joatmon
Addicted to ArboristSite
LOL, the 029 is best left unstarted - no point in provoking Arthritis and Carpal Tunell syndrome.....:greenchainsaw:
Like shooting lutefish in a barrell.
Joat
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Drop starting saws
- Thread starter windthrown
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Like shooting lutefish in a barrell.
Joat
cityboy
ArboristSite Operative
starter ropes are for sissies
I usually push start mine, but to avoid being excessively manly I do at least wear gloves. I grab a hold of the chain and just give it a good quick shove in the forward direction, fast enough to spin up the motor and kick it over.
If I'm feeling kind of tired at the end of the day I'll turn on the bench grinder with a big wire wheel attached, and bump start it with a quick touch of the chain to the rotating wire wheel. Usually I perform that technique with one hand on the handle while holding a beer in the other hand, since the second hand isn't really needed for anything else.
I usually push start mine, but to avoid being excessively manly I do at least wear gloves. I grab a hold of the chain and just give it a good quick shove in the forward direction, fast enough to spin up the motor and kick it over.
If I'm feeling kind of tired at the end of the day I'll turn on the bench grinder with a big wire wheel attached, and bump start it with a quick touch of the chain to the rotating wire wheel. Usually I perform that technique with one hand on the handle while holding a beer in the other hand, since the second hand isn't really needed for anything else.
Bermie
Addicted to ArboristSite
THat was funny cityboy!
I drop start the 020t in the tree, everything else is either the ground start for first of the day, or the leg lock for warm starts, holding the handle on the curve with the left hand exposes the pull cord handle more so you boys don't wallop your goolies.
I always have the chain brake on, the only time its loaded is that first cold start when its on high idle, otherwise the warm starts have no load on the clutch with the brake on. A quick blip on the throttle takes the load off in no time. Been starting my saws that way for years (8 for the little one) and not burned out a clutch or bell housing yet.
I drop start the 020t in the tree, everything else is either the ground start for first of the day, or the leg lock for warm starts, holding the handle on the curve with the left hand exposes the pull cord handle more so you boys don't wallop your goolies.
I always have the chain brake on, the only time its loaded is that first cold start when its on high idle, otherwise the warm starts have no load on the clutch with the brake on. A quick blip on the throttle takes the load off in no time. Been starting my saws that way for years (8 for the little one) and not burned out a clutch or bell housing yet.
oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
What was her name?................Most hurt there HIP..........
.
I worked with a guy who completely blew his back out in a very entertaining and co-educational way. All I can say is...:jawdrop:
Mark
Bowtie
Gearhead
I tried starting my saw "by the manual" ...nahhh I drop start, and always have.
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
It looks like most of us drop start the saws, but it looks like most of us are drop starting smaller saws. One or two guys talking about big saws.
I drop start too; except for a couple of saws. The Jonsered 90, even when I remember to use the decomp is a bear. I swear Jonsered must have used starter pulleys the size of nickels in the old days. Husky 395 wears a 32", and it is kinda scary waving that thing around like a sword when she catches.
then there are the antiques...most of them want the extra lovin' that comes to them through repeated strokin' the rope....
I drop start too; except for a couple of saws. The Jonsered 90, even when I remember to use the decomp is a bear. I swear Jonsered must have used starter pulleys the size of nickels in the old days. Husky 395 wears a 32", and it is kinda scary waving that thing around like a sword when she catches.
then there are the antiques...most of them want the extra lovin' that comes to them through repeated strokin' the rope....
2000ssm6
Stihl User
I drop the 660/32" with the decomp in. I tried it without the decomp and liked to ripped my arm off:jawdrop: :jawdrop: :jawdrop:
decomp's are our friend
decomp's are our friend
windthrown
361 Junkie
Yah, the drop starters are still way out in front. But one fessed up to having someone else start their saws.
Yah, starting a 460 or 650/660 is a b-i-t-c-h w/o decomp. Drop starting the 361 is easy w/o the decomp, until later in the day after a lot of sawing. Then I start to use it more often.
Yah, starting a 460 or 650/660 is a b-i-t-c-h w/o decomp. Drop starting the 361 is easy w/o the decomp, until later in the day after a lot of sawing. Then I start to use it more often.
redprospector
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, those decomp's are pretty important.
I never use one, so I decided to take it out of the jug since I wasn't using it.
:censored: saw wouldn't start at all, I screwed it back in and she started on the 1st pull.
Gotta have them decomp's.
Andy
I never use one, so I decided to take it out of the jug since I wasn't using it.
:censored: saw wouldn't start at all, I screwed it back in and she started on the 1st pull.
Gotta have them decomp's.
Andy
Tree Sling'r
Addicted to ArboristSite
Never used the de-comp, honestly - drop start my little saws (460) and my biggers saws 660 the same. Since I started building my own I remove the de-comp valve and plug the clylinder anyway. I have been shooting for the 190 range in PSI, squish around .20-.22. So they sometimes bite back, but I just cuss em' and yank harder.
It's an OSHA-legal method here to drop start with the bar resting on a stump or log, as long as the tip is clear. That's the method we teach on industrial (logging) sides and one of the methods I always taught at the Forest Service.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Sorry sawtroll - you loose -this is ANOTHER reason why a saw should be nose heavy, not "balanced"
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
Sawtroll will tell you if you owned a husky with an outboard clutch it is slightly heavier on the clutchside which leads to safer drop starting anyhow 
. And don't forget the added gyro effect.
. And don't forget the added gyro effect.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Sawtroll will tell you if you owned a husky with an outboard clutch it is slightly heavier on the clutchside which leads to safer drop starting anyhow
oooohh... That's the secret. The gyro effect PUSHES the bar down into the log making drop start safe....:greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw:
windthrown
361 Junkie
Centrifugal force? In a chainsaw? Not noticable...
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
You missed another thread where Troll was first touting and then backpedaling on the gyro stuff...
I usually drop start, brake off. I did that with one of C4F's saws at the last GTG and it almost took my head off. It's got a tad bit of compression as compared to mine. LOL On went the compression release and between the thighs it went.
Ian
Ian
SawTroll
Information Collector
You missed another thread where Troll was first touting and then backpedaling on the gyro stuff...
It is in fact a valid point, at least limbing smaller limbs at a high rate, but not a very important one overall.
The gyro effect from the rotating chain will of course be less notisable, when the bar is closer to the weight axis.......
I just found it futile to get it into some peoples head, and gave up.....:biggrinbounce2:
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