Echo 2511T bar

[B.C.]

Thanks Full Chizel, that would be awesome. I kind of have an idea but I just want to be 100% certain before I go potentially ruining a nice shiny brand new bar. Btw what I picked up the 3005-000-3909 14" bars which is a 3/8, .043, 50 drive link bar. (KenJax got basically same bar but 12" instead of the 14", but it was also the 3/8 .043.) And the chain I got is 61PMM3 - 3/8, .043, 50 drive link. (The 63 is 3/8 .050 50 dl)

Although now that I think about it the different gauges wouldn't make a difference on the bar mod either way as far as the holes are concerned, the holes will still need to be in the same place and the bar is the same dimensions I would think, just different thicknesses. But anyway, I have the .043 bar & chain.

I'll wait to see the pics.

 

[B.C.]

Btw here is a shot of the 192T and the Echo 2511 factory sprockets sitting on top of each other for comparison for fun. Had this epiphany last night that if the sprockets were the exact same then the 50DL Stihl B&C combos (after hole modded) should run fine on the echo sprocket. (A detail I wasn't totally clear on at the time.)

Fun side note: When I went in to grab that b&c a little earlier one of the guys at the Stihl shop today quickly concluded within about 1 minute of looking at forums (literally he quickly jumped on a computer as I was talking to someone else and in 30 seconds to 1 minute he had all the answers) that I was going to ruin my clutch even if I made the 14" bar work and that only 20" b&c were interchangable, among other things. He did not specify any details. I gave up attempting clarification out of sheer curiosity what his answers would be rather quickly as actual details were sparse, only vague correctness. It was just funny because the stuff he said was so knee jerk & weird while he acted like I was a dumb kid and modding anything was a sign of inexperience. He also made a joke about yeah in the south I'm sure they can make about anything work. Basically he was kind of a prick. Felt like sharing.

 

[full chizel]

See how i made the holes longer

Modded vs. unmodded



Mine looks terrible but was done in about 5 minutes and i should clean it up a little bit. But you get the idea

You just have to make them long enough so the adjustment pin on the clutch cover fits in the hole. Put the bar on the saw and look where the pin is and you’ll see how far it needs to go. Make it a little longer than necessary so you can get a little slack in the chain. Everything else lines right up.

 

[B.C.]

Ok awesome, that was what I was thinking needed to happen. So it oils just fine like that huh, interesting. I'll take a look at it some later but appears to basically be what I thought needed to happen. Thanks a bunch man, now I feel I've got that 100% I needed to go and mangle this bar, lol. Thanks again.

 

[full chizel]

Ok awesome, that was what I was thinking needed to happen. So it oils just fine like that huh, interesting. I'll take a look at it some later but appears to basically be what I thought needed to happen. Thanks a bunch man, now I feel I've got that 100% I needed to go and mangle this bar, lol. Thanks again.

Yup it oils prefectly fine. The oil goes through the smaller holes you see just under the tensioner holes

 

[Ketchup]

I think the oil goes into the hole opposite the tensioner and up between the laminates of the bar. Lengthening the tensioner hole allows it to reach over the oil delivery slot. The oil fills the hole, then goes up into the drive tooth channel of the bar.

I don’t think the original Stihl oil delivery holes do anything on the 2511t. They aren’t lined up with the slot.

If you look at the Echo bar you will see how it works. Luckily the Stihl bar tensioner hole overlaps the drive tooth channel. I’m not sure if the larger Stihl bars have that though. 12” does.

 

[full chizel]

maybe idk. I know how the Echo bar works but I didn’t really look at the Stihl bar to close mounted but i know it oils fine.

 

[B.C.]

I think Ketchup is right about the oil holes, pretty sure the actual oiler holes don't line up with anything on the Stihl bar, elongating the bolt holes I'm pretty sure is what allows the oil to get to the chain.

Finally did my bar and wanted to post pics for anyone else it may help. Did mine just a little different. It looked like not opening the original holes up just barely would allow oil in so it might not actually be totally necessary. You do definitely need to elongate them or drill extra holes for the tensioner pin to fit though. I elongated the original holes just a bit extra, maybe 1/16 to 1/8 and then popped a few holes in just the right spot so the tensioner pin fits in when it's all the way back.

Don't get as much bar length as the original if the chain stretches but maybe a chain would be no good by the time it was maxed out anyway, not sure.

 

[Ketchup]

That’s pretty much exactly what I do. I elongate the original hole on the oiler side and drill a new hole for the tensioner pin. By the time the chain stretches that much you can go back to the original hole.
I love the output on these oilers. The new Stihls seem stingy.

 

[caesarleigh]

Genuine Echo part #s for 3/8 .043 Bar/Chain. No driver change or hole grinding necessary:

12": 12A4CD3745C Micro-Lite Pro Bar 90PX45CQ Micro-Lite Chain

14": 14A4CD3752C Micro-Lite Pro Bar 90PX52CQ Micro-Lite Chain

 

[250R]

Genuine Echo part #s for 3/8 .043 Bar/Chain. No driver change or hole grinding necessary:

12": 12A4CD3745C Micro-Lite Pro Bar 90PX45CQ Micro-Lite Chain

14": 14A4CD3752C Micro-Lite Pro Bar 90PX52CQ Micro-Lite Chain

Thanks for the part numbers! I need a new 12" bar.

 

[jking]

Thanks everyone for the valuable information. I recently bought the 2511T but could not resolve the chattering issue with the original 12" 91PXL chain, even after a few sharpenings. I switched to the Stihl 3005 000 3905 bar and 61 PMM3 44 chain. The local Stihl 'express' dealer does not make custom chains, so I opted for the bar mod. I used the original Echo (Oregon?) bar as a template and made two new tensioner holes with a 1/4" bit on a drill press, then elongated the original holes for the oil path. The difference was obvious before I even made a first cut.

It was perplexing that I could not tension the original chain enough without feeling a significant increase in resistance (moving chain by hand) each time the chain went over a sprocket tooth. (I'm an amateur so maybe this is normal) With my other Stihl saw (MS 250, 18" bar), the change in sprocket engagement resistance is almost imperceptible when the chain is tight enough that you can't pull the drive links out of the bar. With the 2511T, it seemed like there was a ~70% increase in resistance over the sprocket teeth when the chain was tensioned to the same level. The Oregon 91PXL chain and Stihl PMM3 chain appear to have a nearly identical drive-link profile, so maybe the resistance I was feeling was due to the original Echo bar sprocket? In any case, the Stihl bar/chain setup is much smoother. It took me longer to de-burr the bar than it did to drill the new holes.

I decided to stick with the 3/8" pitch low-kickback chain since I'm not doing actual arborist work, just cutting tops that loggers left on 35 acres. The 2511T allows me to put in a few more hours per limbing session before calling it quits due to fatigue. My safety thresholds are a bit lower than commercial operations since I'm usually working alone and sometimes at night, but I can still see why this is a popular saw with professionals.

 

[wyk]

I had to grind the heel of the VXL to keep it from chattering.

 

[jking]

To grind the heel are you taking material off the bottom of the heel or the corner?

 

[ScottRSteeleArborist]

Have any of y’all used a 10” bar on the Echo CS-2511T?
What 10” bar and chain would anyone recommend?
And, what is everyone’s favorite 12” bar/chain combo for this saw, when doing lots of small pruning and occasionally using it to go through wood about 9”-10” diameter?

 

[ScottRSteeleArborist]

I got a 1/4" sprocket and a 10" .043 Sugihara pruning bar with mine. I'm running the stock Echo 10" 3/8p .050 bar and Oregon chain that the saw came with. I haven't had the chance to change out the sprocket yet. It cuts well but can chatter a bit in hard wood like Beech. The saw needs a slight adjustment on the L jet, she dies on idle sometimes. Otherwise i'm very happy the saw especially the light weight.

Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk

How is the 10 inch .043 Sugihara pruning bar with the CS-2511T? Did you have to change the sprocket to use that bar?

 

[Ketchup]

I really like a 1/4”, .043 chain and bar for pruning work. 10” or 12” is easier to control, 14” is nice for extra reach when pruning tops and doing 3/4” reductions. The Stihl 1/4” picco makes super clean cuts and is easy to control.

BUT, it’s pricey, annoying to sharpen and doesn’t last long. And you will need a 1/4” sprocket. I strongly recommend a small tipped bar if you convert to 1/4”. (The oregon 1/4” package on sawagain.com looks clunky and less nimble. Quarter size sprocket tip, .043 seems best.)

Don’t know about the Sugi bars. If they were easier to get or cheaper I would happily throw one on a saw. FWIW, A fellow from Chainsawbarsuk told me the Sugis don’t like stihl chain; they should run Sugi chain but it’s also hard to source in the US.

A 1/4” sprocket, and Stihl micro mini B&C will run you around $100 if you shop around. 10 minutes with a drill press and 30 seconds with a 13mm impact driver will have you ready to go to work. It adds to the cost of the saw substantially, but I feel it’s well worth it.

I also STRONGLY recommend a Muffler mod on your 2511t.

 

[Yotaismygame]

I really like a 1/4”, .043 chain and bar for pruning work. 10” or 12” is easier to control, 14” is nice for extra reach when pruning tops and doing 3/4” reductions. The Stihl 1/4” picco makes super clean cuts and is easy to control.

BUT, it’s pricey, annoying to sharpen and doesn’t last long. And you will need a 1/4” sprocket. I strongly recommend a small tipped bar if you convert to 1/4”. (The oregon 1/4” package on sawagain.com looks clunky and less nimble. Quarter size sprocket tip, .043 seems best.)

Don’t know about the Sugi bars. If they were easier to get or cheaper I would happily throw one on a saw. FWIW, A fellow from Chainsawbarsuk told me the Sugis don’t like stihl chain; they should run Sugi chain but it’s also hard to source in the US.

A 1/4” sprocket, and Stihl micro mini B&C will run you around $100 if you shop around. 10 minutes with a drill press and 30 seconds with a 13mm impact driver will have you ready to go to work. It adds to the cost of the saw substantially, but I feel it’s well worth it.

I also STRONGLY recommend a Muffler mod on your 2511t.

I agree with what you're saying except the sawagain package will be lighter than what comes on the saw stock so I don't see how it would be chunky. But if you're absolutely trying to get the lightest package possible go with a carving bar of course.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Also I have no idea why these little saws comes with a 3/8 chain. My stock chain chattered like crazy so I switched to a non safety full chisel woodland pro chain and that chatters too. I think the real issue is chain speed.

 

[Ketchup]

I agree with what you're saying except the sawagain package will be lighter than what comes on the saw stock so I don't see how it would be chunky. But if you're absolutely trying to get the lightest package possible go with a carving bar of course.

The Oregon 1/4” package will be an improvement, but has a wide tip and the chain is .050. The tiny tips on the stihl bars are just more maneuverable. Not sure how much the .050 vs .043 matters, but I think the cutting tooth is also skinnier.

Definitely agree on the 3/8 chain. The 3/8 .043 is better, especially the semi chisel safety chain, but it all chatters. The 1/4” sucks into the wood and cuts smoother than my handsaw.