Echo 2511t problems

[Pjohnson]

There is an air shutter on the carb for winter operation, per the manual having it closed in summer will cause it to overheat. I also find the cooling holes on the starter rope cover are pretty small and plug easily.

 

[Tobystihl]

Which exact one?

Well, the one fitted to the Stihl ms201t will fit (they are all the same size on later Stihl models)

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Chainsaws are cooled by air from the recoil fan and by the fuel. If you’re overheating, odds are you are tuned way too lean

huskihl.

In the past, I had to learn saws from the ground up beginning with my 1st saw that I bought new in 1994. My Stihl 026.

Once that saw hit about 20+ years old and was eventually an occasional use saw, it began developing running problems then starting problems.
Instead of going to the shop, I looked online to learn about saw maintenance, testing, and overall idea of what makes them run or not.

In the few weeks of research, I added to my basic knowledge of good piston and cylinder condition, good spark and good fuel delivery, with the revelations that saws are either a healthy saw or one that has flaws that could lead to catastrophic failures. AIR LEAKS ( too lean) Straight Gassed, Or Dirty ( air/ fuel filters) All these conditions can cause engine damage.

In my case on my 026, the saw is tight, air leak bearings and seals etc wise, but my issue was gummed up fuel lines and carb from me letting it sit too long unused with ethanol gas in it. Replaced the fuel parts and saw is good as new.
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As for the OP and overheating 2511's. YOU guys can correct me if I am wrong or say this wrong, but 2 cycle equipment cools 1st by the oil, and 2nd by engine speed at WOT ( wide open throttle)

I definitely see the logic on why WOT cools the saw. As for the OP and the 2511, I have 0 experience with this saw, but I can see the logic of the other members above who said it might be being used in excess of it's design as a contributing factor.

Edit,

I closed the above and remembered another factor that can cause a saw to work harder, Sharpness of Chains. How sharp are your 2511 chains?

 

[holeycow]

Any saw, when fitted with an appropriate bar and a sharp chain should be able to repeatedly do full bar cuts over and over again with almost no regard for cooling or oiling or anything whatsoever. If it can't do that, then it has shortcomings.

 

[huskihl]

Any saw, when fitted with an appropriate bar and a sharp chain should be able to repeatedly do full bar cuts over and over again with almost no regard for cooling or oiling or anything whatsoever. If it can't do that, then it has shortcomings.

I agree, as long as it’s tuned properly

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

I agree, as long as it’s tuned properly

And has no air leaks, scored pistons, gunky fuel lines and filters that make tuning the saw a challenge or impossible to tune until bad conditions are corrected.

 

[holeycow]

The gas cools. The oil lubricates. The more fuel and oil you can put through a 2 stroke the better. Use an oil that burns clean.

Smoke'm if you got'em...

 

[cndfirewood]

And has no air leaks, scored pistons, gunky fuel lines and filters that make tuning the saw a challenge or impossible to tune until bad conditions are corrected.

Agreed! Tuning it over and over didn't do the trick and I didn't understand why. But after a DEEP clean and THEN a tune, I haven't had problems in over a month!

 

[huskihl]

And has no air leaks, scored pistons, gunky fuel lines and filters that make tuning the saw a challenge or impossible to tune until bad conditions are corrected.

Yeah that was all included in “tuned properly”. Any air leak or fuel issue is immediately noticeable in the tune

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Yeah that was all included in “tuned properly”. Any air leak or fuel issue is immediately noticeable in the tune

Yup, I knew for those who "understand" saws. I mentioned the other stuff for those who may not know about air leaks and why they may or may not be able to get them to tune them properly so that they " run like they used to".

huskihl, I have learned a lot from you and many others on here.

Where I used to be at my wit's end on why my first saw was hard to start and ran like crap. Sites like this are filled with info we can learn in order to resurrect or keep our saws in tip top shape.

The lessons I learned got me confident enough to buy a 2nd 026. Got it for about 50% of what my original saw cost me in 1994. It was and is a good a runner and made me glad I got a spare. Then I picked up a cool Mac 200 and a 2-10 just to play with and check out OLD SCHOOL. Once I got good at fixing problem saws n such, I could add other saws and more large jobs than I did with my 026's.

Then, I began putting my new knowledge of servicing 2 cycle machines to work. When not working on trees, I was able to resurrect a good number of Echo and Stihl String Trimmers which had problems that paralleled the symptoms of my 1st 026. After learning diagnosing and going through the test procedures, I took a chance and bought some bigger saws. Got a sweet 044 off a member here that needed nothing, and then I got a 660 in a face to face deal here locally.

So, just about anything with trees was possible for me to do except milling and climbing work.

Between 2018 and this year I added 3 Stihl 1111 series saws that I am building for milling, 3 climbing saws, an MS 261C and my first Husq saw. the 394XP.

As some may have seen, I quite possibly could be considering adding another 044 and/ or a 372 XP. Time and $$$$ will tell.

 

[Mac&trees]

Symptoms are random smoke and I start to see a very small "leak" out of the vent, and at the time that starts happening, the saw refuses to idle and the chain expands, causing it to tighten until I let it cool down for a couple minutes. Porting the muffler helped some, but not much.

Not sure what to consider overloading it, however I do use that saw for much more than light duty. I
use it about 90% of the time. On oak, mesquite, pecan, and sometimes cedar and others. I only pull out my bigger saws when absolutely necessary.

Running a 12" Oregon chain and bar

With the oil problem, I have checked everything I could think of. Surely something got clogged and I unclogged it when I cleaned it. It's just weird to me that anytime it's happened, I haven't been able to catch where or what was clogged. I just clean everything and it's fixed for a while.

Running a dull chain that kicks termite dust will clog any chainsaw. I always turn my oilers up to high.