Now that my Echo 501-P is here, and I have tons of hurricane wood to test it on, I am planning to fiddle with it a little and try to get good performance. Not looking to shatter records, but I would like to get significant improvement. I don't need to do this, but I want to do it for fun and to see what the saw will do.
I have a full-chisel chain on it, and I got a Gearhead deflector which has not been installed yet. I have not taken the tube out of the muffler yet. I was planning to add the deflector, take the tube out, tune it, and run it for a couple of tanks before considering anything else. I ordered a Proline tach because people in Amazon reviews said my $7 tach was not necessarily accurate.
I looked at the manual (for once), and it says the saw needs at least two tanks of fuel to go through it before it's broken in. It says the power will increase and the emissions will stabilize. Thank goodness about the emissions, because I was real worried about that. I was so worried I could hardly digest my soy.
1. The manual says the stock max RPM is 13,800. Should I be satisfied with that after the saw is opened up a little? I learned how to tune a saw, and I tuned my CS590, but I just found out I was supposed to take it to the edge of four-stroking, which I did not do. Should I just do that with the 501-P and let the RPM's land wherever they land?
2. Sooner or later, I may want to put this cylinder, or one from another saw, on the lathe. I have seen people using shopmade aluminum mandrels for this. I don't quite understand where they get the friction to turn the cylinders. If the mandrel slips inside the cylinder, I would expect the cylinder to remain stationary when the lathe is running because the parts would slip against each other. How are people getting cylinders to move with their mandrels?
I have a full-chisel chain on it, and I got a Gearhead deflector which has not been installed yet. I have not taken the tube out of the muffler yet. I was planning to add the deflector, take the tube out, tune it, and run it for a couple of tanks before considering anything else. I ordered a Proline tach because people in Amazon reviews said my $7 tach was not necessarily accurate.
I looked at the manual (for once), and it says the saw needs at least two tanks of fuel to go through it before it's broken in. It says the power will increase and the emissions will stabilize. Thank goodness about the emissions, because I was real worried about that. I was so worried I could hardly digest my soy.
1. The manual says the stock max RPM is 13,800. Should I be satisfied with that after the saw is opened up a little? I learned how to tune a saw, and I tuned my CS590, but I just found out I was supposed to take it to the edge of four-stroking, which I did not do. Should I just do that with the 501-P and let the RPM's land wherever they land?
2. Sooner or later, I may want to put this cylinder, or one from another saw, on the lathe. I have seen people using shopmade aluminum mandrels for this. I don't quite understand where they get the friction to turn the cylinders. If the mandrel slips inside the cylinder, I would expect the cylinder to remain stationary when the lathe is running because the parts would slip against each other. How are people getting cylinders to move with their mandrels?
