I put the brake on when people are working near me. Always forget I did it though and then rev it and feel stupid. Although I'd rather feel stupid and have to do a bit more maintenance than slice someone up with a chainsaw.
Echo Chainsaw Won't Pull With Brake On
- Thread starter Paul Bunions
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
People should not be anywhere near you when you are running a powersaw. Period.
You are the master of your workspace.
You are the master of your workspace.
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2001
- Messages
- 34,108
- Reaction score
- 37,041
My father comes from a very long line of woodsmen. When I was younger, I'd go with him and cut some firewood. He'd cut and I stood by and watched.
I was never allowed to stand off to his side or behind him. He told me to always stay in his direct line of sight, and keep my distance.
As an adult, I've cut with others. Never more than three at any one time, and we never were so close that we could speak to one another w/o yelling at almost the top of our lungs. When it comes to chainsaws and working with them, keeping a good distance between users is your friend.
I was never allowed to stand off to his side or behind him. He told me to always stay in his direct line of sight, and keep my distance.
As an adult, I've cut with others. Never more than three at any one time, and we never were so close that we could speak to one another w/o yelling at almost the top of our lungs. When it comes to chainsaws and working with them, keeping a good distance between users is your friend.
I got the drum off. I held the sprocket with channel locks and beat the end of the shaft with a ball peen hammer.
I can't figure out what makes the clutch stick. I found a little bit of rust inside the drum, so I removed it. When I put the drum back in the saw and turned the sprocket, the clutch seemed to catch once on each revolution, so it appears that the clutch is not completely free of the drum. It will turn, though.
I have a clutch removal tool on the way, and I want to pull the clutch and look behind it. When I was trying to fix another problem with the saw, one of the exhaust deflector screws fell into behind the muffler somewhere. I took off the muffler, and it fell deeper into the saw. I have not seen it since. I don't know if it can get behind the clutch and cause a problem, but I might as well check.
I can't figure out what makes the clutch stick. I found a little bit of rust inside the drum, so I removed it. When I put the drum back in the saw and turned the sprocket, the clutch seemed to catch once on each revolution, so it appears that the clutch is not completely free of the drum. It will turn, though.
I have a clutch removal tool on the way, and I want to pull the clutch and look behind it. When I was trying to fix another problem with the saw, one of the exhaust deflector screws fell into behind the muffler somewhere. I took off the muffler, and it fell deeper into the saw. I have not seen it since. I don't know if it can get behind the clutch and cause a problem, but I might as well check.
Definitely want to find that screw, don't want it going somewhere and possible causing damage.
Steve
Steve
As soon as this saw is listed on the trading post, I'd like to bid on it and add it to my Echo collection. The CS-590 is a fabulous chainsaw. OP, please fix it. Thanks.
Remember.... it's not a Semi Truck that's gonna drift off and run over some unsuspecting bystanders.
It's a chainsaw.... idling .... and if adjusted properly, the chain should not be spinning ... unless you're squeezing the throttle.
Anyway, hope you find your problem and get it fixed.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,332
- Reaction score
- 25,429
I think you need to examine what is left of the bearing.
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/e...olf-chain-saw-parts-c-35043_35970_447267.html
I'm amazed by everyone's reaction to this. You guys seem to be saying that engaging the chainbrake is not a smart thing to do? If you guys have ever done a volunteer day you know how stupid some people can be. Well I'm glad to hear you guys have figured out how to prevent accidents 100%. I figure I'd rather be safe than sorry. I hope no one reads this site and comes to the conclusion that engaging the chain brake is stupid. Accidents happen. I will try to do anything I can to lessen the chance of them happening.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,332
- Reaction score
- 25,429
I think that a saw with a chain that turns when the rope is pulled, needs to be fixed first.
BB Sig
ArboristSite Operative
I use the saw brake when I'm doing stupid stuff. I did some cleanup help with my church after Hurricane Michael. It was a twisted mess and required some less than ideal "techniques." There were occasions when we would start each others saws and then hand them over with the saw running. Always used the brake doing that. I've also climbed with a saw hanging and used the saw brake there as well.
When doing normal ground work, I don't use a saw brake. There is a time and place for just about everything.
I do agree that if the chain spins at idle, fix that first...
When doing normal ground work, I don't use a saw brake. There is a time and place for just about everything.
I do agree that if the chain spins at idle, fix that first...
This thread should be retitled 'The Chain Brake Thread', who uses them and who don't. What happened to helping the op fix his saw?
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
It would be an interesting poll on the percentage of AS sawyers who start their saw with the brake on. I don't but I need to rethink that. I also do not start the saw on the ground with my boot toe through the handle. My boots are too big.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,332
- Reaction score
- 25,429
You know what "they" say about that.......
Just some guys vocalizing that.
If I take more than 2 steps, the chain brake goes on - protects me if I trip and fall. Always start the saw with it on.
Engaging and disengaging becomes an automatic / muscle memory thing.
Don't want to burn things up? Don't rev the saw with the brake engaged (I don't do that with my car either).
Back to the OP, it sounds like your clutch or drum might be out of round, damaged, etc. I would check the sprocket bearing and clutch springs too. Missing screw could be the issue or a red herring, but good thing to get it out of there. Look for any unusual signs of wear on the brake band and linkage. Hard to diagnose from afar, but those are the things I would look at.
Philbert
Agreed. I cannot remember that last time that I set the chain brake before I started a chain saw. Several of my best saws have no chain brake. They run perfectly.
I've actually removed the chain brake on 2 of my Husqvarna's but I take full responsibility for my own actions.
I also would never tell anyone not to use the brake.
I also would never tell anyone not to use the brake.
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2001
- Messages
- 34,108
- Reaction score
- 37,041
We each do what we feel most comfortable doing. That may or may not always sit well with others doing the same thing. It's how we go about it that is different.
I act as if my saws don't have a chain brake. That more-or-less, forces me to be more cautious. I do not walk far with a saw that is running. It gets turned off. Period!
I may step a bit this way, or step a bit that way, but I don't walk from one cutting site to another with the saw running. I don't like having to recall if the brake is on or not. I know that it's always off. Knowing that makes me more aware.
I act as if my saws don't have a chain brake. That more-or-less, forces me to be more cautious. I do not walk far with a saw that is running. It gets turned off. Period!
I may step a bit this way, or step a bit that way, but I don't walk from one cutting site to another with the saw running. I don't like having to recall if the brake is on or not. I know that it's always off. Knowing that makes me more aware.
jftr in my own life;
I usually use my chain brake when moving between cuts, especially on uneven/steep/slippery/debris-strewn ground. I do this as a general habit, but not as an obsession. I make particular decisions regarding every single move with the saw.
I don't use the brake when starting the saw. If I was in an uncomfortable/risky position I would. But that hasn't happened.
I don't have any saws without brakes. Peace-of-mind I guess.
I have passed on a few damn good saws because of no brakes. I don't know if those were good decisions or not...
you all do whatever you want.
When I see someone stumbling around with a chainsaw (which happens all the time on many videos I see, but not usually when I see real professionals at work) it shows me immediately that they should be practicing walking in the woods before they start to practice sawing. People who have spent a lifetime in the woods have a fluidity of movement through terrain which is natural and balanced. It is immediately obvious and respected by those that have that.
Anyhoo...
I usually use my chain brake when moving between cuts, especially on uneven/steep/slippery/debris-strewn ground. I do this as a general habit, but not as an obsession. I make particular decisions regarding every single move with the saw.
I don't use the brake when starting the saw. If I was in an uncomfortable/risky position I would. But that hasn't happened.
I don't have any saws without brakes. Peace-of-mind I guess.
I have passed on a few damn good saws because of no brakes. I don't know if those were good decisions or not...
you all do whatever you want.
When I see someone stumbling around with a chainsaw (which happens all the time on many videos I see, but not usually when I see real professionals at work) it shows me immediately that they should be practicing walking in the woods before they start to practice sawing. People who have spent a lifetime in the woods have a fluidity of movement through terrain which is natural and balanced. It is immediately obvious and respected by those that have that.
Anyhoo...
How are people starting saws without putting a foot inside the handles? It's very annoying that the instructions say to do that, while the engineers provide handles too small for a boot to fit in.
