Echo CS-490 DEAD after 11.5 months?

[mountainlake]

If you actually knew anything about saws or fixed them and ran most brands you might not sit there knocking saws, Stihl. Husky and Dolmar all make good saws. Steve

 

[holeycow]

All new saws need to be tuned thanks to the EPA who makes them set them lean to get by emissions. Steve

This is the problem. And apparently Echo is particularly prone to this.

The more you talk the more you will shoot yourself in the foot.

Carry on!

 

[mountainlake]

Yes Echo is or has been the worst at sending them out lean, do you see anything wrong with tuning a saw
[Can YOU explain why it would start running bad after 11 months), Being as smart as you think you are answer this question. Steve

 

[holeycow]

Mountainflake, you come across to me as a genius.

You already explained it. You have it all figured out.

 

[RandyinTN]

If the 490 runs lean from the factory can any of you guys who say they need to run richer post a DIY video on how to make it run richer?

 

[Frank Rizzo]

If the 490 runs lean from the factory can any of you guys who say they need to run richer post a DIY video on how to make it run richer?

Gain access to the carb adj screws ... take a drywall screw and remove the limiters ... now you have FULL adjustment available

 

[RandyinTN]

Sounds good. How do you adjust them?

 

[mountainlake]

Mountainflake, you come across to me as a genius.

You already explained it. You have it all figured out.

I for sure have way more figured out than you and it doesn't take a genius. Steve

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Sounds good. How do you adjust them?

Such that the saws Rip !

 

[wcorey]

You can bet your carb was gunked with ****** fuel, when a saw doesn't run right QUIT running it and clean the carb. This will happen to any Stihl you buy. 100% your fault. Steve

So... The op clearly states in the first post that the saw is less than a year old, has has had 6-7 gallons of premix or echo oil/mix through it, is very conscious of mix being fresh, etc.
Sounds like it likely gets pretty regular use. What's the chance that in that time it sat for the number of months it takes to have the fuel go that bad? Possible but not probable.

Then you admit the saws commonly come in set lean from the factory and should be tuned by the dealer, which is very unlikely to be done by Home Depot, where the saw was purchased.

And you immediately jump to a 100 percent conclusion that it's bad gas/gunked carb/user error...
You're a long time Echo cheerleader...
And you expect to be taken seriously?
Where's the credibility here...?

 

[Bret4207]

Just a couple thoughts. I haven't had any good experiences with Stabil. Others swear by it, but it's been a disaster for me. 2nd thing, I own several Echos, I like them and they've given great service. Ive never owned a new one, but I've read that the owners manual specifically states you're supposed to bring the saw back to the dealer after the first X number of hours and have it re-tuned. Might check your manual and see if that's true which would give me thought that they might indeed be lean out of the factory.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Just a couple thoughts. I haven't had any good experiences with Stabil. Others swear by it, but it's been a disaster for me. 2nd thing, I own several Echos, I like them and they've given great service. Ive never owned a new one, but I've read that the owners manual specifically states you're supposed to bring the saw back to the dealer after the first X number of hours and have it re-tuned. Might check your manual and see if that's true which would give me thought that they might indeed be lean out of the factory.

If anything the saw should be broken-in with a slightly RICHER mixture ... then slowly fine - tune for max power

 

[mountainlake]

So... The op clearly states in the first post that the saw is less than a year old, has has had 6-7 gallons of premix or echo oil/mix through it, is very conscious of mix being fresh, etc.
Sounds like it likely gets pretty regular use. What's the chance that in that time it sat for the number of months it takes to have the fuel go that bad? Possible but not probable.

Then you admit the saws commonly come in set lean from the factory and should be tuned by the dealer, which is very unlikely to be done by Home Depot, where the saw was purchased.

And you immediately jump to a 100 percent conclusion that it's bad gas/gunked carb/user error...
You're a long time Echo cheerleader...
And you expect to be taken seriously?
Where's the credibility here...?

Read my replys, if was just set lean from the start why would it run good for 11 months and then start to show symptoms of being lean. THE CARB GOT GUNKED UP FROM SITTING. . Unless he leaned it out on purpose . You and Holycow tell me what happened. If thers any logic to it I'll listen Steve

 

[RandyinTN]

Such that the saws Rip !

Not very helpful. Plenty of people rag on Echos saying they are lean but then never pony up and offer a real solution on how to adjust them. If you truly do know what you are talking about why dont you tell us novice users how to adjust the screws.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Not very helpful. Plenty of people rag on Echos saying they are lean but then never pony up and offer a real solution on how to adjust them. If you truly do know what you are talking about why dont you tell us novice users how to adjust the screws.

I just gave you a link to a video that shows how to remove the limiters so you can properly tune the saw !!! .... I can’t tell you EXACTLY where to turn the l and h to tune your saw ... too many variables ... clockwise is leaner (less fuel) ; counter-clockwise is richer (more fuel ) ... there are videos on this site or utube that will help ya ... if you are going to run a carbureted saw in varying temps and elevations it “Wood” be in your (and your saws’) best interest to learn this skill !!!

 

[mountainlake]

I'll tell you, pull the limiter caps, grind the tabs off on a bench grinder which take about 2 seconds, put them back on, open up the high about 2 turns, then adjust the low so when you pull the trigger it accelerate good, no bogging, with the high 2 turns out it should be plenty rich a 4 stroking hard. then get some big wood and gradually turn the high in until it cuts the fastest. It should 4 stroke NOT scream when held wide open out of the cut for a couple of second and should clean up as soon as you put a load to the saw. You might have to readjust the low and idle speed after adjusting the high. With the low adjusted rich enough it should start great and should need very little warm up if and to rev up good. Any other questions just ask. All saws adjust the same but most older ones only need the screws somewhere from 1 1/2 to 7/8 turn out and maybe 1/8 of a turn at a time newer saw like a CS400 usually end up around 3 turns out. No bs here just what I know. Steve

 

[mountainlake]

I just gave you a link to a video that shows how to remove the limiters so you can properly tune the saw !!! .... I can’t tell you EXACTLY where to turn the l and h to tune your saw ... too many variables ... clockwise is leaner (less fuel) ; counter-clockwise is richer (more fuel ) ... there are videos on this site or utube that will help ya ... if you are going to run a carbureted saw in varying temps and elevations it “Wood” be in your (and your saws’) best interest to learn this skill !!!

100% right. learn how to tune, you will not run a lean saw then. Steve

 

[ericm979]

Cut the tabs off the limiter caps and put them back on. That makes it easier to find the screw slots with a screwdriver. You'll see why when you take them off.
I removed the carb so I could see what I was doing.

 

[NeSurfcaster]

What good is a 5 year warranty if you have to void the warranty to get a year out of the saw? Evidently a scored piston automatically means bad fuel?

 

[RandyinTN]

I'll tell you, pull the limiter caps, grind the tabs off on a bench grinder which take about 2 seconds, put them back on, open up the high about 2 turns, then adjust the low so when you pull the trigger it accelerate good, no bogging, with the high 2 turns out it should be plenty rich a 4 stroking hard. then get some big wood and gradually turn the high in until it cuts the fastest. It should 4 stroke NOT scream when held wide open out of the cut for a couple of second and should clean up as soon as you put a load to the saw. You might have to readjust the low and idle speed after adjusting the high. With the low adjusted rich enough it should start great and should need very little warm up if and to rev up good. Any other questions just ask. All saws adjust the same but most older ones only need the screws somewhere from 1 1/2 to 7/8 turn out and maybe 1/8 of a turn at a time newer saw like a CS400 usually end up around 3 turns out. No bs here just what I know. Steve

Thank you. Very helpful post. Much better than someone else just posting you better learn how to do it. Which screw is high, which one is low?